Ganesh II | 1981 W Face-S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ganesh II in 1981 via W Face-S Ridge, led by Hiroyasu Shirakabe. Summit reached on 5th May 1981. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1839
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN281101
Peak ID GAN2
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hiroyasu Shirakabe
Sponsor Nihon University Department of Science and Technology Joint Exp
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-03-19
Summit Date 1981-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 47
Total Days 55
Termination Date 1981-05-13
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to lack of snow bars and rope
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Ganesh VI (GAN6-811-01)
Campsites TempBC(19/03,4050m),BC(24/03,4750m),C1(07/04,5300m),ABC(12/04,5800m),C2(30/04,6300m),C3(04/05,6700m),xxx(05/05,6800m)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's. Tejima - 22 May 81 All members now in KTM, Tejima arrives 21 May TBC 4050m - 19 March BC 4750m - 24 March C1 5300m - 7 April ABC 5800m - 12 April C2 6300m - 30 April C3 6700m - 4 May Reached high point 5 May 6800m and then decided to abandon. Long way to summit and short of snow bars and fixed rope. Each part of route had some problems: icefall on steep rock face or steep ice. By 5 May weather changed with lot of snow, thought monsoon coming. Route was South Ridge - same as 1980 attempt One member fell and broke left wrist on rotten rock, fell 2-3m Not so cold so no frostbite. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 May 81 Abandoned climbing 5 May after pitching C3 at 6800m on 3 May. Bad weather and very difficult route prevented their going above C3. Left BC 13 May for return to KTM. Health good. Mailrunner says no accidents or frostbite. Will reach KTM 20-21 May. Tejima - 25 Feb 81 All now in KTM - leave KTM 8 March Same as 1980 spring South or SW Ridge route Yesterday Sharma said permit will be Ok after all documemts received. Nepal members (required to be on permit): 1) Ang Pasang, 24 (Everest autumn winter 1980) 2) Dorje Sherpa, 23 (also Everest autumn and winter 1980 ) Sirdar = Pasang Sonam was on Gyachung Kang 1964 Will probably stay in Lazimpat house on return to KTM 2 difficulties : 1) Icefall below C1 of about 4500-5000m 2) last part of ridge at about 6600m to top; very knife-edged and long way from highest camp: 4 km may put about C4 half way along this difficult sector. Tejima - 18 Feb 81 Route = South Ridge, same as spring 1980 (met their leader and discussed tactics) 1980 spring took many days to cross icefall and on lower parts Now will make BC 4750m where 1980 spring had C1. Will have C1 ABC = 6000m C3 = 6500-6600m 9 climbers and 1 doctor = Japanese members 2 Nepalese members and 1 sirdar + 5 HA Sherpas 5 HA Sherpas to ABC 3 members now in KTM Most members arrive KTM 23 Feb Leave for Trisuli 1 March or so; 2 weeks caravan to BC. Summit early May (this our first expedition to Himalayas so maybe take long time) 3 oxygen for medical only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447026
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-s ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shinichiro Kasai M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Shigeki Nakajima M 1933 Japan Exp Doctor Zushi, Kanagawa, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Syunsuke Ono M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Physics student Details Other expeditions
Hiroyasu Shirakabe M 1946 Japan Leader Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Shinji Suzuki M 1958 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Physics student Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Takahashi M 1957 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Sales engineer Details Other expeditions
Takao Takahashi M 1947 Japan Climber Fujisawa, Kanagawa, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Yukitoshi Tanikawa M 1948 Japan Deputy Leader Yokohama, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Tetsuo Tejima M 1954 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Yuichi Fukuoka M 1956 Japan Climber Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan Petroleum engineer Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sonam Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN281101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:223 (1982) -
GAN281101 IWA - - - 88:188 (1982) -
GAN281101 IWA - - - 88:45 (1982) -
GAN281101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222302/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-III-Attempt - - -