Ganesh II | 1980 NE Spur

A Japan expedition to Ganesh II in 1980 via NE Spur, led by Shoji Imai. Summit reached on 9th October 1980. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1875
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN280301
Peak ID GAN2
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Spur
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shoji Imai
Sponsor Nepal & Aichi Himalayan Joint Expedition 1980
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Buri Gandaki->Toro Gompa Glacier
Basecamp Date 1980-09-13
Summit Date 1980-10-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 26
Total Days 33
Termination Date 1980-10-16
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5600m due to fatal avalanche
High Point (m) 5600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/09,3650m),C1(28/09,4600m),C2(04/10,5400m),xxx(09/10,5600m)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's. This expedition's route was the NE Ridge; it was east of North Ridge followed by German expedition in autumn 1981, according to Herman Warth. Ganesh II - S Ridge BC 3650m - 13th Sept C1 4600m - 28th Sept C2 5400m - 4th Oct Highest point 5600m - 9th Oct 3 members killed by avalanche 9th Oct. Nitta - 21 Oct 80 2 weeks searching route before making C1. Climbing started 22 Sept. BC at Toro Gompa glacier of a small N Ridge. Tried climb small N Ridge and C2 was on small plateau on this ridge; very easy route, climbing members say. 3 members last were at 5600m on big plateau on small N Ridge; above C2 60m icefall. 4 members were here on 9th Oct above icefall, which was fixed; roped and making route to C3. Snow avalanche came from above small N Ridge and hit all 4 men. After avalanche 3 members missing and Murase not injured: he was not in direct line of avalanche at moment it hit. This only avalanche; route is safe, climbers think, but pre-monsoon perhaps too much snow. L.O. DP - 16 Oct 80 Leader and 2 members arrived today on helicopter. 3 missing men are dead. Searched for days and not found C2 5600m just below camp and hit. Climbing abandoned. Others arrive 15 days later. Imai - 23 Aug 80 (with help in English from Nitta) Expedition had permit for Ganesh I to climb via Sangeng (Sangjung) Glacier, but now border runs south of glacier so this approach not permitted, so original route of S Ridge not possible and ministry proposed Toro Gompa Glacier approach. But this latter approach means SW Face which is very difficult. Big avalanching rock face of 4000m height which is impossible to climb. So expedition proposed Ganesh III from Toro Gompa Glacier to east face of N Ridge to summit, new route. If ministry gives written Ok tomorrow, 3 members, and 10 porters leave Kathmandu 26th Aug and others leave 28th Aug. Caravan 13 days to BC at glacier from Buri Gandaki BC 3800m at bottom (NW) end of glacier. 4 or 5 camps above BC with last camp at 6500m. Face of ridge may offer no camp site and may be only biv. Face of ridge is missed ice and snow with 600m icewall and steep rock 5 Sherpas above BC including 2 members of expedition; sirdar is Zangbu Sherpa. Oxygen medical only. BC about 10 Sept. Summit 20 Oct; time to find route, maybe changing approach to Ridge.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446817
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne spur

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shoji Imai M 1951 Japan Climber Kasugai, Aichi, Japan Small businessman Details Other expeditions
Toshimi Iwamoto M 1953 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Mitshbishi factory worker: (operates press stamping out bus) Details Other expeditions
Yasunsri Kotoo M 1946 Japan Exp Doctor Gifu-shi, Gifu, Japan Teacher, Gifu University Medical College Details Other expeditions
Kaoru Kuroiwa M 1954 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Electronic-circuitry designer Details Other expeditions
Tomoshichi Kurokawa M 1946 Japan Climber Nagasaki, Japan Refrigerator salesman Details Other expeditions
Masaru Mizuno M 1958 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Gaku Morimoto M 1949 Japan Deputy Leader Nagoya, Japan Wholesale salesman of nuts and bolts Details Other expeditions
Minoru Murase M 1954 Japan Climber Gifu-shi, Gifu, Japan Manager in company which installs electrical systems in blding Details Other expeditions
Junsuke Nitta M 1951 Japan Member Ueda, Nagano, Japan Shinshu University student of plant ecology Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Ogawa M 1958 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Katsumi Sofue M 1949 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Manager in steel company Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Terui M 1945 Japan Climber Omagari, Akita, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Jangbu Sherpa M - Nepal Climber/Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN280301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:257-258 (1981) -
GAN280301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
GAN280301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125704/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-III-Attempt - - -