Ganesh II | 1980 W Face-S Ridge
A Japan expedition to Ganesh II in 1980 via W Face-S Ridge, led by Yoichiro Arai. Summit reached on 7th May 1980. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1904 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GAN280101 |
| Peak ID | GAN2 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face-S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Yoichiro Arai |
| Sponsor | Shinshu University Joint Expedition to Mt. Ganesh II |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | Yaru Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-03-28 |
| Summit Date | 1980-05-07 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 40 |
| Total Days | 43 |
| Termination Date | 1980-05-10 |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6750m due to steep route and bad weather |
| High Point (m) | 6750 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/03,4050m),C1(04/04,4700m),C2(11/04,5200m),C3(17/04,5800m),C4(03/05,6300m),C5(06/05,6600m),xxx(07/05,6750m) |
| Route Notes | This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's. Fukishima & Nakada - 20 May 80 C4 6300m 3 May C5 6600m 6 May Maximum altitude 6750m, a little snow peak by Fukishima, Yamamoto and Ang Phuri on 7 May; climbed to see route. C5 on ridge and above 6750m ridge steep knife-edge rock, looked very difficult. If we are going to get summit, 3 or 4 days more to make route. Had not enough pitans for fixing ropes on this part; had already climbed face needing many pitons. Route = West Face of South Ridge to South Ridge Approached via Yaru Khola to glacier which was long and difficult, then up big rock face which is West Face of South Ridge. C5 was only camp on this ridge; other camps on glacier or face took long time to reach ridge and little food left. 8 May decided no more going up. 2 Sherpas sick; 1 got toothache and left expedition No accidents or frostbite Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80 Abandoned 8 May after C4 3 May 6300m, C5 after 6 May 6600m. Above C5 steep slope to summit and weather bad and decided to stop 8 May. Left BC 10 May, arrive KTM 17 May. All are well. Otsu - 6 May 80 C3 established 5800m 3 weeks ago. By end of April should have summit, they planned. Nakada - 27 Feb 80 6 persons in KTM. 2 more arrive 2 March. Leave KTM 10 March by road to Trisuli. Caravan on 10 days march via Buri Gandaki to Yaru Khola on west side of Ganeshes to BC on Yaru Khola at about 3800m, then to col south of Ganesh II and South Ridge of Ganesh II. 4 above BC with C4 at 6500m South Ridge only possible route; north ridges impossible Arrive BC 22 or 23 March start climb 25-27 March; summit 5 May KTM return 15 May No HA Sherpas; this is joint expedition No oxygen |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446662 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w face-s ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yoichiro Arai | M | 1941 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shiro Fujimoto | M | - | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Wataru Fukishima | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuji Futamata | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Student of economics, Shinshu University | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Nakada | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Shimoda | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Inashi, Nagano, Japan | Student of agriculture, Shinshu University | Details Other expeditions |
| Mitsunori Watanabe | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Mabashi, Gunma, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Yamamoto | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Nagano, Japan | Student of education, Shinshu University | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phuri Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Pema Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GAN280101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:257 (1981) | - |
| GAN280101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125703/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Himal-III-Attempt | - | - | - |