Ganesh I | 1953 W Ridge
A New Zealand expedition to Ganesh I in 1953 via W Ridge, led by Athol Roberts. 4 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2543 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GAN153101 |
| Peak ID | GAN1 |
| Year | 1953 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | New Zealand |
| Leaders | Athol Roberts |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | - |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6100m due to bad conditions and altitude sickness |
| High Point (m) | 6100 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 4 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Attempted Ganesh II (GAN2-531-01) and Lampu (LAMP-531-01); climbed Chamar North (CHMN-531-01) |
| Campsites | BC(3650m),C1(4575m),C2,C3(6100m),xxx |
| Route Notes | Taken from "The New Zealand Alpine Journal" The trip to Tumji (our main base) was to last 11 days and the first day was to Kikani. This was an easy day across miles of rich intensely cultivated valley and then climbing gradually up through lovely alternating trees and farmland. Kikani Bungalow (6000 ft above sea level) was reached at 6:30 pm and here we had our first tea cooked for by our Sherpas. Kikani by the way, is the place where the photograph was taken which first gave the place where the Buri Gandaki area for our first trip to the Himalaya. Unfortunately on this occasion a thick dust have obscured the splendid view we first saw in a book in New Zealand, but nevertheless we had sense of contented well being on this our first evening on the trek with only our Sherpas and and coolies for company. An early start next morning took us down about 3,000 feet to the valley below and then in easy trek to Trisuli Bazaar whihc brough to a close the second day. And so the days brought us closer and so the country became more gorgy and mountainous. Arughat Bazaar was a welcome sight as this village is situated on the Buri Gandaki and it was this mighty river that was to us almost to the heart of the great giants we had come so far to find. At the end of eleven days all our supplies were safely stored in Tibetan's house at Tumji (our main base or store place) and after paying off our 52 coolies we sorted food and equipment for 5 or 6 weeks climbing in the Ganesh Himal two coolie days above us. We hired 19 Tibetan Coolies to carry for us and on the afternoon of the second day our Base Camp was pitched at a height of 14,000 ft. The scenery held us spellbound. A large cirque of mighty peaks seemed to surround us completely and at that time seemed to be ours for the taking - or should I say for the climbing? Little did we then suspect that unforseen complications would prevent us from attaining our objective. Despite the party's determined effort, Mt Ganesh Himal a 23,400 foot giant, rallied its defense forces and repulsed us with altitude sickness and bad snow and ice conditions. Added to this, McCallum became very sick at Camp II and had to be helped down to Base, and so from this 24-thousander we were forced to retire and organise for an attempt on another peak. During the enforced convalescent period of McCullum, Gardner made a reconnaissance on another peak in this area, while Bishop and I made a reconnaisance up the Sarpu Valley. This valley lies to the north of the small Village of Tumji and is 20 miles long, 10 miles of it being glacier. The glacier rises in four large icefalls from a height of 10,500 feet at its snout to 18,000 ft at its head. From our base which we reached that evening. From here we had difficulty in obtaining porters to carry our loads and we had to perform this unpleasant task ourselves. However eventually at midday on our second day of hard swagging two smiling Tibetans arrived, and all was well. We carried with more heart and lighter loads, which were now well distributed and having traversed three icefall. The head of the glacier did not terminate in cirque but in several 19,000 foot rocky peaks and saddles on the Buri Gandaki Sarpu watershed. We were satisfied with the climbing possibilities here returned to the Base Camp. This reconnaissance took eight days. Before setting out for Sarpu again it was decided to spend about ten days attempting a peak named Lampu. On the 13th May McCallum and Gardner with four Sherpas set out to establish a camp on Lampu which is a little north of Mt. Ganesh Himal. Next day Gardner and one Sherpa commenced a reconnaissance of the peak, which eventually involved them in having to spend the night out. These two found a cave like hole at the foot of bluff about 20 feet high. The hole was full of icicles but it was welcome shelter. Following Gardner's return it was decided to press on and Camp II was established in a spot like an eagles's nest. It was thought that from Camp III we might have a chance of climbing this peak, but we were all deceived by the scale of the mountain and realised that it would be necessary to establish Camp IV. An attempt was made to do this without success. After a council of war at Camp III, where the temperature had dropped considerably, we then determined that we would make an attempt on the summit from here. We were running short of food and fuel and would soon have to return to Base. An early start was made next morning but by noon having negotiated a difficult snow ridge where the snow was the consistency of sugar. It was realized that the party could not possible hope to reach the summit in one day. There was very little food and fuel left and so we returned to Base Camp with something else attempted but still nothing done. On 21 May nine coolies arrived to help carry out Base Camp down to where we were made welcome at the home of Da Dodgie. The houses here are built with stone walls and bamboo matting roof usually of two storys with the farm animals being kept downstairs and the smell upstairs. We had arranged for a party of coolies to carry up the Sarpu Khola and these arrived on 20 May. We packed and were ready to start when we were told that the coolies would not go on that day because that night there was dancing. We were concerned at the approaching monsoon weather and every day was important but nothing would move the coolies so we accepted our temporary defeat with good grace and went to the dance also. At last we set off from Tumji with 18 well-laden coolies. We had enough food fro the four of us and four Sherpas for five weeks. It was not possible to get onto the glacier at its snout and we had to climb some 3000 ft before dropping down onto the white ice of the glacier on the third day. We eventually established Camp I about half way up the Glacier at 15,000 ft and coolies refused to go beyond this point. The next day we four with the help of our four Sherpas established Camp II. When this camp was well stocked the Sherpas moved ahead and established Camp III at 19,000 feet. Eventually Camp IV took shape and then CV at 22,000 ft. The Sherpas carried up this last camp and established Bishop, Sherpa Namgyal and me on a small flat part of the great summit ridge. We enjoyed little that night because of the wind and we were also feeling the effects of the altitude. Next morning we set out towards summit wearing crampons. We moved very slowly as we marvelled at the view which seemed endless, but after about 500 feet I became ill and went back towards the tent. Bishop and Namgyl went on. Two and half more hours of plugging with shorter spells of step cutting brought them to the top of a huge ice bulge, only to find that the real summit was further along and much flatter by heavily corniced ice arete. In the meantime Gardner and McCallum with Nima were moving up to Camp V in support, and if possible for their attempt on the peak the following day. Fortunately the wind had lessened in intensity and Bishop and Namgyl made steady progress to within 100 yards of the summit. Here the ice formed three or four giant waves and it took some three hours to pass them. There were several other steps in the ridge which gave trouble but Bishop was at last rewarded when on looking over a difficult step he saw an unbroken snow slope to the summit which he and Namgyl reached at 2 pm. There was a cold misty wind on top and the two climbers did not delay long. Two photographs were taken and the descent was commenced. Despite the cold Bishop could not suppress his elation at climbing his first Himalayan peak and at the knowledge that the party had attained an objective. Peak 23,513 was no longer unclimbed. It has subsequently been named Chamar. However it was now the turn of the rest of the party, and on the morning of the 7th June four climbers left their tents at Camp V for the second attempt on our new peak Chamar. Bishop and Namgyl bade farewell and good climbing to the two ropes made up of Gardner and the Sherpa Nima on one and McCallum and I on the other. It was not long before the effects of dysentery combined with oncoming illness made it impossible for me to continue and a return was made to Camp V. McCallum joined the other rope and the ascent continued. Shortly after the party had their first view of the summit, the steps made by Bishop the previous day were seen and it was not long before they were being put to excellent use. The three climbers no doubt mentally thanked the two men who had been there before them. A fierce wind was screaming across the slopes and this slowed up their progress. At last the summit was reached. A few sweets were eaten and the descent began. By then a thick mist had settled on the summit and flurries of snow increased in intensity. By the time they reached the steps they were completely filled. Nima, did a splendid job of finding the obliterated stops but unfortunately he had removed his goggles and when Camp V was reached he was complaining of sore eyes. At Camp V the effects of altitude were such that hot drinks were sufficient for their needs. Next morning Nima was snow-blind. The party set out in thick mist for CIV with the route finding problem on their hands because the snow had now wiped out all trace of tracks. Gardner and McCallum looked after Nima. Because steps had to be cut in the hard snow lying underneath the powder snow, and because Nima's feet had to be guided into these steps by McCallum it took an hour for them to descend the first hundred feet. From Camp IV the remainder of the party set off to give aid to the three who were on their way down. The former had been caught in a soft snow avalanche and had come out of it unscathed although two ice-axes were lost. The Camp IV party were some distance below and near where the avalanche must have started McCallum found one of the ice-axes. It seemed ages before the groups met. McCallum and Gardner were having a difficult time with Nima as they were both carrying heavy packs having left Nima with only a sleeping bag and air mattress to carry and having to clear away nearly a foot of powdered snow before each step could be cut. Willing hands relieved the summit party of their packs as soon as both parties met and the descent was continued down a well marked trail to Camp IV. It had taken seven hours for the 1500 foot descent between the two camps. Next morning, 9 June we took stock and result was not particularly encouraging. Nima was still completely snow blind. Sarki, the youngest Sherpa was blind in one eye; and I was weak from illness. To add to the difficulties, the monsoon had hit us. A start for Camp III was made in clear conditions but it was not long before the monsoon cloud had closed down about us. Progress was very slow in the soft snow avalanche. At last Camp III came into sight through the thick cloud. It was a sorry sight. The covered snow and crevasses had opened all round it. This stage of the journey from Camp IV to Camp III took six hours although it normally could have been done in one hour. June the 10th was our last day on the mountain. It turned out a lovely fine day and our spirits rose with the sun. Nima was now able to see out of one one and this load again and this load again and this was a great help to the rest of us. We were amazed how much the large crevasses had opened up between Camp III and CII and at times it seemed that we must be cut off from the lower part of the glacier. However we threaded our way through them and negotiated safely the frail looking snow bridges which had to be crossed to reach the lower sides of the crevasses. At last we reached the flat part of the glacier and it was not long before we were at C2, at an altitude of 17,000 ft. It was pleasant after our rather gruelling days at the higher camps. Our appetites returned and we were again able to really enjoy food. That night as we settled down in Camp II the party felt satisfied that the plans which had been made in Wellington months before had borne fruit. We had climbed a Himalayan Peak. We had done that which we had come to do and we could now return without misgivings or disappointment. It had been a grand and impressive experience. Space does not permit me to tell you of the exploration and our trip out hampered with rising rivers and detested leeches. However we achieved our ambition: we have climbed in the Himalaya. Hermann Warth - 26 March 81 Third Pole from A. R. Roberts "Himalayan Holiday" Athol R. Roberts Maurice G. Bishop Graham J. McCallum Philip C. Gardner Spring 1953 Went up Buri Gandaki went right to Shiar Khola to Tumge (Dunche) to Tola Gompa Tried Ganesh I via NW Ridge - at 6100m finished Tried Pt 23,400 ft = 7132m = Ganesh III - at 5800m slab avalanche - Gardner and Nima narrowly escaped and returned. Then Lampu (21,345 = 6506m) failed Left Ganesh area Northwest of Shiar Khola Sringi Himal - brief recce: Sharpu Khola and reached Chamar (23,545 ft = 7177m) northeast side - C1 4600m C2 5200m C3 5800m C4 6250m C5 6700m 5 June Roberts, Bishop and Nyamgal Sherpa started attack - Roberts not well and returned but other 2 continued. Making step in heavily cornice ridge for 5 hours - 9 hours climb brought then to Chamar's summit highest point Shingi Himal. 7 June McCallum and Nima reached summit - strong winds, fog and snow - 7 hours descent to C4 - Nima because snowblind next day. 10 June all safely off mountain. Then recce northeast of Sringi. Sherpas (taken from literature): Babu Namgyl Nima Sarki |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2223 |
| Year | 1953 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge |
Members
4 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Athol Renouf Roberts | M | 1911 | New Zealand | Leader | New Zealand | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Maurice G. Bishop | M | - | New Zealand | Climber | New Zealand | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Graham J. McCallum | M | - | New Zealand | Climber | New Zealand | Physicist | Details Other expeditions |
| Philip C. Gardner | M | - | New Zealand | Climber | New Zealand | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.