Ganesh I | 2001 NE Spur-E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ganesh I in 2001 via NE Spur-E Ridge, led by Kinichi Yamamori. Summit reached on 26th October 2001. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4096
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN101301
Peak ID GAN1
Year 2001
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Spur-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kinichi Yamamori
Sponsor Himalayan Association of Japan Yangra Kangri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lhasa->Kiyrong Zangbo River->BC
Basecamp Date 2001-09-24
Summit Date 2001-10-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6900m due to route difficulty and lack of strong manpower
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/09,3350m),C1.ABC(4400m),C2(30/09,5350m),C3(18/10,6000m),C4(24/10,6860m),xxx(26/10,6900m)
Route Notes BC near Land Phu C1 = ABC at Lachung Co lake C2 below rock wall C3 on plateau C4 on NE Spur High point on East Ridge. Himalayan Journal 2002, page 203-6 During September a mature eight member Japanese expedition comprising Kinichi Yamamori (57, leader), Yoshihide Higami (57, deputy leader), Hideki Sato (53, climbing leader), Seiko Mantoku (47), Yasuji Moriyama (51), Yasuo Ota (48), Kunihiko Sato (48) and Masakatsu Tamura (59) made the first ever attempt on 7429m Ganesh from Tibet. The highest summit in the Ganesh group lies on Nepal-Tibet border and is referred to in Tibet by its local name, Yangri Kangri. The peak has only been climbed once. On the 24th October 1955 Eric Guachet, Claude Kogan and Raymond Lambert from Franco Swiss expedition reached the summit via the South East Face from the Sang Jing Glacier in Nepal. Tragically the young Guachet slipped on the descent and fall to his death. The Japanese project to climb Yangra Kangri from the north started with an invitation from Tibet Mountaineering Association, proposing a joint expedition with the Himalayan Association of Japan (this partnership had successfully made the first ascent of 7367m Labuche Kang in 1987). Yamamori organized a reconnaissance in September 1996, but lack of time meant that he was not able to make much progress on a possible northern approach and instead continued down the Kyirong Zangbo River inspect a route from the south via the Sang Jing Glacier. Poor weather prevented any view of the mountain. A second expedition in October 1998 found a route from Ruka (3050m) on the Kyirong Zangbo towards the foot of the North East Spur of the mountain. However, members were unable to reach the Pawa Glacier on the north side of the peak due to heavy undergrowth and marshy terrain. The 2001 exepedition built a bridge over the Ramu River opposite the base of the North East Spur and established BC at 3350m in the forest below the peak. By late September they had made Camp I at 4400m beside a lake named Lachang Co close to the start of the North East Spur. This spur is a branch of the East Ridge and itself splits into two branches at about 6100m. The Japanese started climbing on the 30th, aiming for the easterly branch of the spur. Camp 2 (5350m) was established below a glass-shaped rock wall, where the route became difficult. Two pitches on the rock wall, followed by a thin and narrow snow ridge, led to an icefall. After climbing the latter, C3 was established on the plateau above at 6000m. From there the climbers progressed up a huge and crevassed snow face towards the East Ridge. A shortage of ropes meant that in order to extend the route they had to remove those that had been fixed lower down. On the 24th October they placed C4 at 6860m just below the ridge. Four members stayed there on the 26th climbed up the East Ridge without ropes or pitons (which had all been used below) until they were forced to give up at 6900m. No high altitude porters were used above C1.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st attempt from north side
Agency None
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454480
Year 2001
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne spur-e ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kinichi Yamamori M 1944 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Managing director of Himalayan Association of Japan Details Other expeditions
Yoshihide Higami M - Japan Deputy Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Hideki Sato M 1948 Japan Climbing Leader Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Civil servant (Hokaido prefecture) Details Other expeditions
Seiko Mantoku M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Yasuji Moriyama M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Ota M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Kunihiko Sato M 1943 Japan Climber Koriyama, Fukushima, Japan Kindergarten owner Details Other expeditions
Masakatsu Tamura M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN101301 HIGH - - - 237:57-58 (Aug 2002) -
GAN101301 AAJ Yamamori, Kinichi - - 76:419-422 (2002) -
GAN101301 JAN Yamamori, Kinichi Unscaled North Face of Yangra Kangri - 2:20-22 (Apr 2002) -
GAN101301 HJ Yamamori, Kinichi Yangra Kangri - 58:201-206 (2002) -
GAN101301 - - http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol2/Yangra.pdf - - -
GAN101301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200241903/Asia-Tibet-Yanga-Kangri-Attempt-on-a-New-Route - - -
GAN101301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/58/18/expeditions-and-notes-58/ - - -
GAN101301 - - http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol2/Yangra.pdf - - -