Fang | 1984 W Ridge from N

A USA expedition to Fang in 1984 via W Ridge from N, led by Wesley Krause. Summit reached on 10th October 1984. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1006
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID FANG84301
Peak ID FANG
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Wesley Krause
Sponsor Mountain Madness Fang Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-20
Summit Date 1984-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1984-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7315m due to bad weather and lack of food
High Point (m) 7315
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,3500m),C1(26/09,4875m),C2(28/09,5400m),C3(30/09,6100m),C4(03/10,6400m),C5(06/10,6850m),xxx(10/10,7315m)
Route Notes BC in Mristri Khola near Thulobugin's "n" C1 on big snow flute to West Ridge C2 on West Ridge C3 on West Ridge C4 on West Ridge High point on West Ridge. 4 bad weather days at C4 and had only 3 days food with them on 10th. So picked up camp and tried to move it next position at 24,500 ft on ridge but moved slowly because windy and snowing so returned to 22,500 ft. Then waited to see if weather would improve but Fischer went up for fixed rope and then both started down on 16th Oct. Came down N Face of W Ridge, down a spur, rather than ascent route. Spent 1 night in biv at c17,500 ft took much longer than expected which was why food running out. Most difficult technically was traversing a flute of mixed ice, rock and snow between C1 and C2. Again above C4 was narrow exposed climbing.
Accidents Hladick left BC because wasn't acclimatizing; Krause twisted ankle while coming down from high point on Oct 10
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448238
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from n

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Scott Eugene Fischer M 1955 USA Climber Kent, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Joseph Hladick M 1951 USA Climber Estes Park, Colorado Carpenter, writer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wesley Krause M 1953 USA Leader Evans, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
FANG84301 AAJ Krause, Wesley - - 59:289 (1985) -
FANG84301 MM - - - 102:16 (Mar 1985) -
FANG84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528902/Asia-Nepal-Varah-Shikhar-Fang-West-Ridge-Attempt - - -