Fang | 1980 W Ridge from S
A Austria expedition to Fang in 1980 via W Ridge from S, led by Sepp Mayerl. Summit reached on 17th May 1980. 8 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1866 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | FANG80101 |
| Peak ID | FANG |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge from S |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Austria |
| Leaders | Sepp Mayerl |
| Sponsor | East Tirol Expedition to Fang |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | W Germany |
| Approach | Ghaleti Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-04-12 |
| Summit Date | 1980-05-17 |
| Summit Time | 1600 |
| Summit Days | 35 |
| Total Days | 41 |
| Termination Date | 1980-05-23 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7647 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2800 |
| Total Members | 7 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(12/04,3500m),C1(16/04,4500m),C2(22/04,5700m),C3(06/05,6450m),C4(16/05,7040m),Smt(17/05) |
| Route Notes | Mayerl - 29 May 80 Route was West Ridge from South approached via Ghaleti Khola to point south of ridge halfway between point 18,600 and Fang on Harka Gurung map. Not so long this way to get mountain and straight up from BC to ridge; wall very steep: from BC to C2 2800m fixed. C2 = 1st camp on ridge above C2. 1200m fixed rope. No accidents, not much frostbite. South face of ridge is rock climb, no avalanching there. No oxygen for climbing. C1 to C2 some difficulty as Matterhorn North Face: 70 degrees and steepness first 300-400m C4 = 7040m on 16 May Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 May 80 Permitted South Face to C4 and West Face to summit 17 May summit by 1) Hermann Neumair, 1951, Lienz, carpenter 2) Josef Mayerl 3) Ang Chopal, 33, Kharikhola Flags of Nepal and Austria and club on top took photos in clear weather and -20 degree Climbed from West Face On top 16:00 to 16:30 Started climb at 5:00 on 16 May; bad weather and had to fix rope to 6500m, so delayed in climb and made emergency biv at 7040m 16 May for that night; next day 17 May started again 3:00 am and returned to biv with battery lights at 22:00 hours. Health good. Because fixed rope from BC to 6500m and route very hazardous and difficult, others will not try for top. 23 May were to leave BC for KTM. Mueller-Esterl, Annapurna I expedition - 17 May 80 Fang expedition going well; have put in all camps and waiting for good weather. (one member [Dr. Bahner] left expedition a week ago with injured finger). Mayrl - 1 April 80 Route = West Ridge from South From Tatopani to Nanchung to Ghaleti Khola to BC BC at 4000m Route is first to South Face of West Ridge and then east along ridge to top 2 camps on face and 3 on ridge = 5 camps above BC C5 about 7200m Most difficult part will last 300m of ridge to top, rock ridge with steep rock walls Leave KTM Friday or Saturday by road to Pokhara. Pokhara to BC 7 days. Arrive BC middle April: 12-14th 4 weeks climbing; top by middle May: 10-20th Quite sure to succeed Best climbers from Tyrol; Hermann Neumayr led much of last years climb No oxygen climbing 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Chopal |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446627 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge from s |
Members
8 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bernd Bahner | M | 1940 | Austria | Exp Doctor | Lienz, Tirol, Austria | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Albert Fellinger | M | 1935 | Austria | Climber | Solothurn, Switzerland | Industrial engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Oswald Gassler | M | 1947 | Austria | Climber | Lienz, Tirol, Austria | Manager of sporting-goods shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Jochem Hoyer | M | 1942 | W Germany | Climber | Gauting, Bavaria, W Germany | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef (Sepp) Mayerl | M | 1937 | Austria | Leader | Doelsach, Tirol, Austria | Restorer of church towers & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Hermann Neumair | M | 1951 | Austria | Climber | Gaimberg, Tirol, Austria | Roofer of church towers | Details Other expeditions |
| Sepp Sint | M | 1949 | Austria | Climber | Kartisch, Tirol, Austria | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Chopal Sherpa | M | 1946 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| FANG80101 | AAJ | Mayerl, Sepp | - | - | 55:264-265 (1981) | - |
| FANG80101 | - | Mayerl, Sepp | Der Turm in Mir | Rosenheimer, Rosenheim, W Germany | - | M245 |
| FANG80101 | MM | - | - | - | 74:14 (Jul 1980) | - |
| FANG80101 | DAV | Mayerl, Sepp | Der Lange Grat Zum Fang | - | 106:139-146 (1981) | - |
| FANG80101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126403/Asia-Nepal-Fang | - | - | - |