Fang | 1979 SE Ridge
A Italy expedition to Fang in 1979 via SE Ridge, led by Arturo Bergamaschi. Summit reached on 2nd October 1979. 23 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2114 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | FANG79301 |
| Peak ID | FANG |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Arturo Bergamaschi |
| Sponsor | Italian National Expedition to Annapurna Fang |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-09-12 |
| Summit Date | 1979-10-02 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 20 |
| Total Days | 28 |
| Termination Date | 1979-10-10 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6350m due to unstable snow and unsettled weather |
| High Point (m) | 6350 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 20 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(12/09,4300m),C1(18/09,4950m),C2(26/09,5400m),xxx(02/10,6350m) |
| Route Notes | Bergamaschi - 20 Oct 79 SE Ridge route was impossible. Very dangerous wall because rotten rock and pitons wouldn't hold. 900m high wall on east side of ridge; 5-4m snow very soft and ridge corniced. SE Ridge impossible at anytime of year weather was not good: snow every day. Should have put C3 at 6300m on ridge but couldn't put any camp there - did reach 6350m on ridge and 2 Sherpas slept one night there but no place for tent (Sherpas used biv tent). 3 members [ ]and 2 Sherpas [Ang Pasang and Nga Temba] reached 6350m 1st Sun in Oct. 1 porter died [in preparation for] return march when slipped and fell 9 Oct [coming up to base camp for loads]. Cavozzuti - 30 Sept 79 Cavazutti's returns to KTM after 2 days by foot from Pokhara. Collini walks unsteadily. Collini fell from C1 to BC on glacier at 4800m for about 10m, no difficulty in route. Shoulder dislocated, no fracture; slipped when returning with others from carrying food. No others injured; about now yesterday. Cavazzuti and colleague tried to reduce dislocation, but not successful so necessary for general anesthesia. Reached KTM from BC at 1:00 pm today. Collini to hotel - stays till a trekking froup arrives 9 or 10 Oct - treks with them to near BC - group and expedition return to Italy together. Perhaps today or tomorrow C3 at about 6300m on ridge.The first camp on ridge - 2 mere camps on ridge will be needed but difficult part is C2 to C3 because of avalanches. This 3:00 am climbers left camp because after 9:00 & 10:00 am hits and avalanches. Very difficult mountain; 300m at least of ridge to summit. Morale is high but whether success possible don't know. 18-26th Sept - 4 or 5 days of snow. Modi Khola to BC in Annapurna Sanctuary at 4300-4400m. 5 or 6 camps above - on to SE Ridge of Fang. 250 porters to BC. 10 high-altitude Sherpas. Oxygen only medical. Leave 3 Sept to PKR. 7-8 days later in BC. Summit after 1 month, hope not difficult part of route = SE Ridge, which is very narrow - to reach ridge danger of avalanches. |
| Accidents | Porter died on return march when slipped & fell 9th Oct |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446398 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
23 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ezio Alimonta | M | 1945 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Arturo Bergamaschi | M | 1928 | Italy | Leader | Bologna, Italy | Professor of mathematics | Details Other expeditions |
| Attilio Bianchetti | M | 1945 | Italy | Climber | Bergamo, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Massimo Buvoli | M | 1957 | Italy | Climber | Piacenza, Italy | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesco Cavazzuti | M | 1928 | Italy | Exp Doctor | Modena, Italy | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Enzo Ceschia | M | 1934 | Italy | Climber | Udine, Italy | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Amanzio Collini | M | 1943 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Bruno Detassis | M | 1910 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Catullo Detassis | M | 1923 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Luciano Grassi | M | 1923 | Italy | Climber | Bergamo, Italy | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Lodovico Gualandi | M | 1926 | Italy | Climber | Bologna, Italy | Radio technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Toni Mase | M | 1938 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Giorgio Melchiori | M | 1923 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Giovanni Pasinetti | M | 1950 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gianfranco Rizzi | M | 1945 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gianni Tagliaferri | M | 1941 | Italy | Climber | Piacenza, Italy | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Renato Valentini | M | 1946 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ferruccio Vidi | M | 1954 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Walter Vidi | M | 1950 | Italy | Climber | Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Villa | M | 1952 | Italy | Climber | Milano, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Unknown | M | - | Nepal | Porter | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Pasang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nga Temba Sherpa | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| FANG79301 | AAJ | - | - | - | 53:624 (1980) | - |
| FANG79301 | HJ | Bergamaschi, A. | Annapurna Fang (7650m) | - | 37:157-161 (1979-80) | - |
| FANG79301 | - | Bergamaschi, Arturo | Il Nepal e la HN 1979 | F. Lli Anibelli, Ancona, Italy | - | B291 |
| FANG79301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062402/Asia-Nepal-Fang-Attempt-Southeast-Ridge | - | - | - |
| FANG79301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ | - | - | - |