Fang | 1979 SE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Fang in 1979 via SE Ridge, led by Arturo Bergamaschi. Summit reached on 2nd October 1979. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2114
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID FANG79301
Peak ID FANG
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Arturo Bergamaschi
Sponsor Italian National Expedition to Annapurna Fang
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-09-12
Summit Date 1979-10-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 28
Termination Date 1979-10-10
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6350m due to unstable snow and unsettled weather
High Point (m) 6350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 20
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/09,4300m),C1(18/09,4950m),C2(26/09,5400m),xxx(02/10,6350m)
Route Notes Bergamaschi - 20 Oct 79 SE Ridge route was impossible. Very dangerous wall because rotten rock and pitons wouldn't hold. 900m high wall on east side of ridge; 5-4m snow very soft and ridge corniced. SE Ridge impossible at anytime of year weather was not good: snow every day. Should have put C3 at 6300m on ridge but couldn't put any camp there - did reach 6350m on ridge and 2 Sherpas slept one night there but no place for tent (Sherpas used biv tent). 3 members [ ]and 2 Sherpas [Ang Pasang and Nga Temba] reached 6350m 1st Sun in Oct. 1 porter died [in preparation for] return march when slipped and fell 9 Oct [coming up to base camp for loads]. Cavozzuti - 30 Sept 79 Cavazutti's returns to KTM after 2 days by foot from Pokhara. Collini walks unsteadily. Collini fell from C1 to BC on glacier at 4800m for about 10m, no difficulty in route. Shoulder dislocated, no fracture; slipped when returning with others from carrying food. No others injured; about now yesterday. Cavazzuti and colleague tried to reduce dislocation, but not successful so necessary for general anesthesia. Reached KTM from BC at 1:00 pm today. Collini to hotel - stays till a trekking froup arrives 9 or 10 Oct - treks with them to near BC - group and expedition return to Italy together. Perhaps today or tomorrow C3 at about 6300m on ridge.The first camp on ridge - 2 mere camps on ridge will be needed but difficult part is C2 to C3 because of avalanches. This 3:00 am climbers left camp because after 9:00 & 10:00 am hits and avalanches. Very difficult mountain; 300m at least of ridge to summit. Morale is high but whether success possible don't know. 18-26th Sept - 4 or 5 days of snow. Modi Khola to BC in Annapurna Sanctuary at 4300-4400m. 5 or 6 camps above - on to SE Ridge of Fang. 250 porters to BC. 10 high-altitude Sherpas. Oxygen only medical. Leave 3 Sept to PKR. 7-8 days later in BC. Summit after 1 month, hope not difficult part of route = SE Ridge, which is very narrow - to reach ridge danger of avalanches.
Accidents Porter died on return march when slipped & fell 9th Oct
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446398
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ezio Alimonta M 1945 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Arturo Bergamaschi M 1928 Italy Leader Bologna, Italy Professor of mathematics Details Other expeditions
Attilio Bianchetti M 1945 Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Massimo Buvoli M 1957 Italy Climber Piacenza, Italy Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Francesco Cavazzuti M 1928 Italy Exp Doctor Modena, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Enzo Ceschia M 1934 Italy Climber Udine, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Amanzio Collini M 1943 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Detassis M 1910 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Catullo Detassis M 1923 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Luciano Grassi M 1923 Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Engineer Details Other expeditions
Lodovico Gualandi M 1926 Italy Climber Bologna, Italy Radio technician Details Other expeditions
Toni Mase M 1938 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Melchiori M 1923 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Pasinetti M 1950 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gianfranco Rizzi M 1945 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gianni Tagliaferri M 1941 Italy Climber Piacenza, Italy Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Renato Valentini M 1946 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ferruccio Vidi M 1954 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Walter Vidi M 1950 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Villa M 1952 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Porter - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nga Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
FANG79301 AAJ - - - 53:624 (1980) -
FANG79301 HJ Bergamaschi, A. Annapurna Fang (7650m) - 37:157-161 (1979-80) -
FANG79301 - Bergamaschi, Arturo Il Nepal e la HN 1979 F. Lli Anibelli, Ancona, Italy - B291
FANG79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062402/Asia-Nepal-Fang-Attempt-Southeast-Ridge - - -
FANG79301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -