Fang | 1979 W Ridge from N

A Austria expedition to Fang in 1979 via W Ridge from N, led by Sepp Mayerl. Summit reached on 2nd May 1979. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2091
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID FANG79101
Peak ID FANG
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Sepp Mayerl
Sponsor East-Tyrolean Himalaya Expedition of the Alpenraute Lienz, Tyrol
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1979-04-02
Summit Date 1979-05-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to fatal accident
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,3440m),C1A(06/04,4750m),C1B(12/04,5370m),C2(17/04,5600m),C3(24/04,5850m),C4(27/04,5950m),C5(02/05,6600m),xxx
Route Notes Josef Mayerl - 15 May 79 W Ridge 2-1/2 km long, very steep (70 degrees) and very dangerous. C5 last camp: C4 starts last part up difficult ridge. Herbert Obernosterer fell while descending from C5 to C4, where no fixed rope (had put in total 3000m fixed rope above and below). He fell 2000m on north wall when one crampon caught on 2 May. 4 members made C5 and went down same day, 2 May, to C4 and Obernosterer fell 7:30 pm during their descent. Others were: Neumair, Girstmair and Gassler. 3 May all members in C1 and decide finish expedition because "when one man dead, there is no success for expedition." 4 May brought corpse to C1 where made grave. Expedition would have reached summit on 6 or 7 May if continued; no further problems. Gassler: Obernosterer descending on 2 May from C5 to C4 and came to part where was no fixed rope. He was tired and he fell, at first along ridge down which was climbing - about 10-15 meters he fell here, towards Neumair who was, ahead of him (Gassler behind Obernosterer). Neumair tried to catch him but only touched his arm before Obernosterer plunged down North Wall of the ridge. Others reached C4 on 2 May and C1 on 3 May. On 4 May went from C1 and brought body to C1 for burial. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 79 Herbert Obernosterer of Lienz slipped and fell down about 2000m North Wall while going from C4 to C3 on 2 May according LO. Obernosterer, Herbert Neumair, Hermann Girstmair, Siegfried Gassler, Oswald established C4 6500m, 2 May. Obernosterer not found as on 3 May and members presume him dead; intensive search going on and attempt to climb has been abandoned. Mayerl via Bernard - 23 March 79 Vigin peak. Route via West Ridge but not decided whether from north or south; very steep ridge so very difficult. North side ice and snow and on south unstable rock. Ganturer expedition not considered to have been on Fang. Wanted to climb via South Ridge but did not get far. Leave KTM 24 or 25 March, probably all together - perhaps 2 or 3 stay in KTM few days to get permit for Galeti Khola as well as Mristi Khola which will already have. If BC in Mristi Khola - 12 days at BC; in Galeti Khola 7-8 days - 110 porters ex-Pokhara. 6-8 weeks to climb, so summit last half May will go onto ridge near point 18,605 ft (5670m) because closer to Fang is hanging glacier which can avalanche on north side. Will also get onto ridge near point 18,605 even if climb from south side. About 4 high camps with C2 the first on the West Ridge. About 4 km from point 18,605 to Fang summit 5 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ang Chopal No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, 3-5 bottles for medical only.
Accidents Obernosterer died (slipped and fell down the mountain)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446245
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from n

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Willi Bernard M 1938 Austria Exp Doctor Lienz, Tirol, Austria Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Albert Fellinger M 1935 Austria Climber Biberist, Solothurn, Switzerland Occupation given as 'expert for mills' Details Other expeditions
Oswald Gassler M 1947 Austria Climber Lienz, Tirol, Austria Tradesman Details Other expeditions
Siegfried Girstmair M 1956 Austria Climber Lienz, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Josef (Sepp) Mayerl M 1937 Austria Leader Doelsach, Tirol, Austria Restorer of church towers & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hermann Neumair M 1951 Austria Climber Lienz, Tirol, Austria Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Herbert Obernosterer M 1953 Austria Climber Lienz, Tirol, Austria High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Heinz Thonhauser M 1932 Austria Deputy Leader Lienz, Tirol, Austria Veterinarian Details Other expeditions
Ang Chopal Sherpa M 1946 Nepal Sirdar Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
FANG79101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 53:624 (1980) -
FANG79101 DAV Mayerl, Sepp Der Lange Grat zum Fang - 106:139-146 (1981) -
FANG79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062401/Asia-Nepal-Fang-Attempt - - -