Everest | 1998 N Col-NE Ridge
A Uzbekistan expedition to Everest in 1998 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Anatoli Shabanov. Summit reached on 22nd May 1998. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2579 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER98118 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1998 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Uzbekistan |
| Leaders | Anatoli Shabanov |
| Sponsor | First Uzbek Everest Expedition Spring 1998 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 290,292,294,301 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1998-04-13 |
| Summit Date | 1998-05-22 |
| Summit Time | 1445 |
| Summit Days | 39 |
| Total Days | 44 |
| Termination Date | 1998-05-27 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 11 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(13/04),TempBC(15/04,5800m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(24/04,7700m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(22-25/05) |
| Route Notes | C1 at North Col. 1st summit party 3 members went to 8100m 16 May and left gear and 18 May reached C3 finally after 16th and 17th May's winds abated. 18 May were ordered down because Grigoriev at C2 feared they too tired for summit. 19 May Fedorov, Usaev, Tukhvatullin and Zaikin arrived C3 but 20th ordered down after acclimatization at 8300m and down to ABC 20 May. 21 May 8 members from ABC up and Radjapov reached C3, Sokolov, Grigoriev, Usaev, Fedorov and Baskakova to C2; Tukhvatullin and Zaikin to C1 only; Dokukin, Roman Mats and Balmagambetov stayed in stayed in ABC. 22 May Radjapov on top 5:00 pm Chinese time (14:45 NST), just before Arsentiev. When he went above 2nd Step at at 8700m and spent 15-20 minutes talking with them while going up with them; he told them they going too late but they said wife prepared for bivouac (and they were seen by Chinese liaison officer saw them on top after 6 pm) and Radjapov in C3 at 5:00 pm, very tired. 23rd and 24th also others on top. 25th 2 summiters started very early because were slow climbers and feared bad weather coming. Now climb finished because no more climbing members left to try (Boystov bad cough and unable to try). 23rd May summit party met Mrs Francys Arsentiev at 8600m in a bad condition from her having been to summit evening before and night bivouac and 2 members, Fedorov and Grigoriev stayed with her from hour trying to help her; this made them later on summit than other in their party. All summiters used oxygen from C3 to top and some in C3. |
| Accidents | Nothing serious |
| Achievement | 1st Uzbekistan attempt and success |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453224 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Khaniv Balmagambetov | M | 1959 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Alpine club director | Details Other expeditions |
| Svetlana Baskakova | F | 1956 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Konstantin Boystov | M | 1952 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Bekabad, Uzbekistan | Worker on tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Aleksei Dokukin | M | 1967 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrei Fedorov | M | 1967 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Electrical engineer & worker on high buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Oleg Grigoriev | M | 1964 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Oleg Karabaev | M | 1969 | Uzbekistan | Exp Doctor | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Neurosurgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Roman Mats | M | 1968 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Worker on tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Raff Musin | M | 1957 | Uzbekistan | Radio Operator (BC) | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Primary school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Rustam Radjapov | M | 1957 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Worker on tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Anatoli Shabanov | M | 1940 | Uzbekistan | Leader | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Mountaineering club director | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Sokolov | M | 1971 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Fergana, Uzbekistan | Electrical engineer & alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Ilyas Tukhvatullin | M | 1958 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marat Usaev | M | 1967 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Worker on tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew Zaikin | M | 1965 | Uzbekistan | Climber | Tashkent, Uzbekistan | Construction engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER98118 | AAJ | Mountaineering Federation of Russia | - | - | 73:371-373 (1999) | - |
| EVER98118 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937100/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-North-Ridge-Ascent-and-Tragedy | - | - | - |