Everest | 1998 N Col-NE Ridge

A Uzbekistan expedition to Everest in 1998 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Anatoli Shabanov. Summit reached on 22nd May 1998. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2579
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER98118
Peak ID EVER
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Uzbekistan
Leaders Anatoli Shabanov
Sponsor First Uzbek Everest Expedition Spring 1998
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 290,292,294,301
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-04-13
Summit Date 1998-05-22
Summit Time 1445
Summit Days 39
Total Days 44
Termination Date 1998-05-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 11
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/04),TempBC(15/04,5800m),ABC(16/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(24/04,7700m),C3(14/05,8300m),Smt(22-25/05)
Route Notes C1 at North Col. 1st summit party 3 members went to 8100m 16 May and left gear and 18 May reached C3 finally after 16th and 17th May's winds abated. 18 May were ordered down because Grigoriev at C2 feared they too tired for summit. 19 May Fedorov, Usaev, Tukhvatullin and Zaikin arrived C3 but 20th ordered down after acclimatization at 8300m and down to ABC 20 May. 21 May 8 members from ABC up and Radjapov reached C3, Sokolov, Grigoriev, Usaev, Fedorov and Baskakova to C2; Tukhvatullin and Zaikin to C1 only; Dokukin, Roman Mats and Balmagambetov stayed in stayed in ABC. 22 May Radjapov on top 5:00 pm Chinese time (14:45 NST), just before Arsentiev. When he went above 2nd Step at at 8700m and spent 15-20 minutes talking with them while going up with them; he told them they going too late but they said wife prepared for bivouac (and they were seen by Chinese liaison officer saw them on top after 6 pm) and Radjapov in C3 at 5:00 pm, very tired. 23rd and 24th also others on top. 25th 2 summiters started very early because were slow climbers and feared bad weather coming. Now climb finished because no more climbing members left to try (Boystov bad cough and unable to try). 23rd May summit party met Mrs Francys Arsentiev at 8600m in a bad condition from her having been to summit evening before and night bivouac and 2 members, Fedorov and Grigoriev stayed with her from hour trying to help her; this made them later on summit than other in their party. All summiters used oxygen from C3 to top and some in C3.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement 1st Uzbekistan attempt and success
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453224
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Khaniv Balmagambetov M 1959 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Alpine club director Details Other expeditions
Svetlana Baskakova F 1956 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Geologist Details Other expeditions
Konstantin Boystov M 1952 Uzbekistan Climber Bekabad, Uzbekistan Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Aleksei Dokukin M 1967 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrei Fedorov M 1967 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Electrical engineer & worker on high buildings Details Other expeditions
Oleg Grigoriev M 1964 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Oleg Karabaev M 1969 Uzbekistan Exp Doctor Tashkent, Uzbekistan Neurosurgeon Details Other expeditions
Roman Mats M 1968 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Raff Musin M 1957 Uzbekistan Radio Operator (BC) Tashkent, Uzbekistan Primary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Rustam Radjapov M 1957 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Shabanov M 1940 Uzbekistan Leader Tashkent, Uzbekistan Mountaineering club director Details Other expeditions
Sergei Sokolov M 1971 Uzbekistan Climber Fergana, Uzbekistan Electrical engineer & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Ilyas Tukhvatullin M 1958 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Marat Usaev M 1967 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Andrew Zaikin M 1965 Uzbekistan Climber Tashkent, Uzbekistan Construction engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER98118 AAJ Mountaineering Federation of Russia - - 73:371-373 (1999) -
EVER98118 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937100/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-North-Ridge-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -