Everest | 1998 S Col-SE Ridge

A Iran expedition to Everest in 1998 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran. Summit reached on 20th May 1998. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2605
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER98112
Peak ID EVER
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Iran
Leaders Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran
Sponsor Islamic Republic of Iran Everest and Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 285
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-04-06
Summit Date 1998-05-20
Summit Time 0945
Summit Days 44
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1998-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Lhotse (permit, but not attempted)
Campsites BC(06/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse West Face C4 at South Col. 19 May first summit attempt reached Col after South Summit at 10:00 am (had left Col at 1:00 am) because strong wind which destroyed 10 tents at C2: were Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Naghavi, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz with 4 Sherpas (2 Sherpas left just before South Summit) in jam of so many people at South Summit together; "traffic jam" was factor also although this party passed all others in "jam"; down to South Col for that night. On 20 May at 2:00 am up again: Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz and 3 Sherpas and were on top at 9:45 am, at Col at about 2:00 pm and C2 at about 7:00 pm. Now no more Everest summit attempts. Iman Gurung had been on Everest attempt of 19th but not strong enough for 2nd attempt next day. Lhotse: Aflaki and Alinejad on 5 May went to South Col to observe route from there to Lhotse summit and take pictures but did not sleep at col. Neither they nor any others tried to reach summit. Sherpas: Dawa Tenzi: 34, Kharikhola, Everest once before Chuldin, Khumjung, 30, 1st 8000er Pemba Rinzi: 21, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er (claims Everest summit in spring '97 with Malayasians film team, but team's agency says none went to top) BC - Nepal - Mountaineering First Iranians atop Everest By Elizabeth Hawley Kathmandu, May 20 (Reuters) - The first Iranian mountaineers to scale Mt Everest successfully stood at the highest point on earth at 9:45 am. (Nepal time) today, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced today. The ten-member expedition, led by president of the Islamic Republic of Iran Mountaineering Federation Sadegh Aghajani Kalkharan, sent four Iranians and two Nepalese Sherpas to the 8848 meters-high (29,028 foot) summit of Mt Everest. The summit party had left their highest camp at 7900 meters (25,900 ft) on the Nepalese (southern) side of Everest at 2:00 am today, according to the ministry, reached the top at 9:45 am and stayed at the top of the world for 20 minutes. The successful Iranians were, the ministry said: - Hamid Reza Olany, 28, laboratory technician from Hamedan, - Mohammad Oraz, 28, University student from Naghadeh, - Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani, 38, technician from Hameda. The Nepalese who went to the summit with them were Chhuldim Sherpa and Da Tenji Sherpa. This expedition were the first Iranians ever to attempt to scale Everest. A reconnaissance team from Iran joined a Chinese party in the spring of 1978 to prepare for an assent in the following year from the Tibetan side of Everest, and they reconnoitered the northern route to an altitude of about 7800 meters (25,600 ft). The revolution of 1979 led to the cancellation of the actual assault planned for 1979. However the first Iranian-born climber to reach Everest's summit was a naturalized American citizen, Hooman Aprin from Jackson, Wyoming followed by today's Iranian citizens and gained the summit on 5 Oct, 1990.
Accidents One member slight altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453222
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eghbal Aflaki Aghbelagh M 1954 Iran Climber (Lhotse) Tehran, Iran Installs air condition systems Details Other expeditions
Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran M 1960 Iran Leader Tehran, Iran Iranian Mountaineering Federation president Details Other expeditions
Abbass Alinejad M 1960 Iran Climber (Lhotse) Tehran, Iran Accountant Details Other expeditions
Hemayoun Bakhtiyari M 1963 Iran Deputy Leader Tehran, Iran English translator & teacher Details Other expeditions
Fereydoon Bayatani M 1968 Iran Climber (Lhotse) Arak, Markazi, Iran Physician Details Other expeditions
Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani M 1959 Iran Climber Hamedan, Iran Technician Details Other expeditions
Ahmad Ghanei M 1947 Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Film director Details Other expeditions
Mahmoud Godarzi Moghadam M 1950 Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Cameraman for TV Details Other expeditions
Abolfath Hamzeh Saghai M 1969 Iran Climber Tabriz, Iran Purchasing officer for father's clothing factory Details Other expeditions
Mohammad (Behnam) Jodaeian M 1973 Iran Climber Hamedan, Iran Army draftee (private) Details Other expeditions
Davoud Khadem Asl M 1957 Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Technician Details Other expeditions
Rasool Naghavi M 1952 Iran Climber Rodbarak, Iran Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mohammad Hassan Najarian M 1965 Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Factory technician Details Other expeditions
Hamid Reza Olanj M 1969 Iran Climber Hamedan, Iran Laboratory technician Details Other expeditions
Mohammad Oraz M 1969 Iran Climber Naghadeh, Iran University student Details Other expeditions
Bahman Rostami M 1971 Iran Climber (Lhotse) Arak, Markazi, Iran University student Details Other expeditions
Reza Zarei Toudeshki M 1969 Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tenzi (Da Tenzi) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chuldim Dorje Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Rinzi/Rinji Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Iman Gurung M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER98112 - Zarei, Reza Everest, A Mountain Beyond the Clouds - - -