Everest | 1998 S Col-SE Ridge
A Iran expedition to Everest in 1998 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran. Summit reached on 20th May 1998. 21 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2605 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER98112 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1998 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Iran |
| Leaders | Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran |
| Sponsor | Islamic Republic of Iran Everest and Lhotse Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 285 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1998-04-06 |
| Summit Date | 1998-05-20 |
| Summit Time | 0945 |
| Summit Days | 44 |
| Total Days | 50 |
| Termination Date | 1998-05-26 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 17 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Lhotse (permit, but not attempted) |
| Campsites | BC(06/04,5350m),C1(17/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(18/05,7900m),Smt(20/05) |
| Route Notes | C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse West Face C4 at South Col. 19 May first summit attempt reached Col after South Summit at 10:00 am (had left Col at 1:00 am) because strong wind which destroyed 10 tents at C2: were Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Naghavi, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz with 4 Sherpas (2 Sherpas left just before South Summit) in jam of so many people at South Summit together; "traffic jam" was factor also although this party passed all others in "jam"; down to South Col for that night. On 20 May at 2:00 am up again: Cheshmeh Ghasabani, Najarian, Olanj, Oraz and 3 Sherpas and were on top at 9:45 am, at Col at about 2:00 pm and C2 at about 7:00 pm. Now no more Everest summit attempts. Iman Gurung had been on Everest attempt of 19th but not strong enough for 2nd attempt next day. Lhotse: Aflaki and Alinejad on 5 May went to South Col to observe route from there to Lhotse summit and take pictures but did not sleep at col. Neither they nor any others tried to reach summit. Sherpas: Dawa Tenzi: 34, Kharikhola, Everest once before Chuldin, Khumjung, 30, 1st 8000er Pemba Rinzi: 21, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er (claims Everest summit in spring '97 with Malayasians film team, but team's agency says none went to top) BC - Nepal - Mountaineering First Iranians atop Everest By Elizabeth Hawley Kathmandu, May 20 (Reuters) - The first Iranian mountaineers to scale Mt Everest successfully stood at the highest point on earth at 9:45 am. (Nepal time) today, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced today. The ten-member expedition, led by president of the Islamic Republic of Iran Mountaineering Federation Sadegh Aghajani Kalkharan, sent four Iranians and two Nepalese Sherpas to the 8848 meters-high (29,028 foot) summit of Mt Everest. The summit party had left their highest camp at 7900 meters (25,900 ft) on the Nepalese (southern) side of Everest at 2:00 am today, according to the ministry, reached the top at 9:45 am and stayed at the top of the world for 20 minutes. The successful Iranians were, the ministry said: - Hamid Reza Olany, 28, laboratory technician from Hamedan, - Mohammad Oraz, 28, University student from Naghadeh, - Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani, 38, technician from Hameda. The Nepalese who went to the summit with them were Chhuldim Sherpa and Da Tenji Sherpa. This expedition were the first Iranians ever to attempt to scale Everest. A reconnaissance team from Iran joined a Chinese party in the spring of 1978 to prepare for an assent in the following year from the Tibetan side of Everest, and they reconnoitered the northern route to an altitude of about 7800 meters (25,600 ft). The revolution of 1979 led to the cancellation of the actual assault planned for 1979. However the first Iranian-born climber to reach Everest's summit was a naturalized American citizen, Hooman Aprin from Jackson, Wyoming followed by today's Iranian citizens and gained the summit on 5 Oct, 1990. |
| Accidents | One member slight altitude sickness |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Thamserku Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453222 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
21 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eghbal Aflaki Aghbelagh | M | 1954 | Iran | Climber (Lhotse) | Tehran, Iran | Installs air condition systems | Details Other expeditions |
| Sadegh Aghajani Kalkhoran | M | 1960 | Iran | Leader | Tehran, Iran | Iranian Mountaineering Federation president | Details Other expeditions |
| Abbass Alinejad | M | 1960 | Iran | Climber (Lhotse) | Tehran, Iran | Accountant | Details Other expeditions |
| Hemayoun Bakhtiyari | M | 1963 | Iran | Deputy Leader | Tehran, Iran | English translator & teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Fereydoon Bayatani | M | 1968 | Iran | Climber (Lhotse) | Arak, Markazi, Iran | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani | M | 1959 | Iran | Climber | Hamedan, Iran | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ahmad Ghanei | M | 1947 | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Film director | Details Other expeditions |
| Mahmoud Godarzi Moghadam | M | 1950 | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Cameraman for TV | Details Other expeditions |
| Abolfath Hamzeh Saghai | M | 1969 | Iran | Climber | Tabriz, Iran | Purchasing officer for father's clothing factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Mohammad (Behnam) Jodaeian | M | 1973 | Iran | Climber | Hamedan, Iran | Army draftee (private) | Details Other expeditions |
| Davoud Khadem Asl | M | 1957 | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Rasool Naghavi | M | 1952 | Iran | Climber | Rodbarak, Iran | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Mohammad Hassan Najarian | M | 1965 | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Factory technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Hamid Reza Olanj | M | 1969 | Iran | Climber | Hamedan, Iran | Laboratory technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Mohammad Oraz | M | 1969 | Iran | Climber | Naghadeh, Iran | University student | Details Other expeditions |
| Bahman Rostami | M | 1971 | Iran | Climber (Lhotse) | Arak, Markazi, Iran | University student | Details Other expeditions |
| Reza Zarei Toudeshki | M | 1969 | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Shopkeeper | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tenzi (Da Tenzi) Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chuldim Dorje Sherpa | M | 1963 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Rinzi/Rinji Sherpa | M | 1974 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Iman Gurung | M | 1960 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Laprak, Gorkha | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER98112 | - | Zarei, Reza | Everest, A Mountain Beyond the Clouds | - | - | - |