Everest | 1997 N Col-NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Everest in 1997 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Jean Troillet. Summit reached on 30th August 1997. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2445
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97302
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Jean Troillet
Sponsor Swiss Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-07-29
Summit Date 1997-08-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 32
Total Days 64
Termination Date 1997-10-01
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8700m due to route finding difficulty, then no more motivation now and wind started
High Point (m) 8700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 8700
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/07,5200m),ABC(04/08,6400m),C1(29/08,7800m),xxx(30/08,8700m)
Route Notes High point on North Ridge. "Big change on Everest - people think all you need is two fingers and nose to go up" - Troillet. All expeditions this autumn had telecommunications equipment to communicate with outside world; more talking less climbing on Everest now. 7 telephones at BC (Swiss also had one but it stopped early). Did not put camp at North Col. 1st camp above ABC was at 7800m; it was slept in on 29 Aug in 1st attempt for top and on 30th reached 8700m in dark night and went too far to left, get near Pinnacles and at 5:00 am at light, realized where they were so too far from summit to reach it before 1:00 pm and turned back (Schaffter, Roduit, Apa Sherpa and Krishna Tamang in this attempt) and returned to ABC and next day to BC to rest at low altitude. Another attempt 13 Sept from ABC in night and stopped at 7500m because avalanche danger (Apa, Krishna, Ang Pasang, Phur Tenzing, Schaffter and Troillet with Todaka Japanese team). Last attempt by Troillet, Apa, Ang Pasang and Krishna. Apa took oxygen and used from 8300m. Ang Pasang got altitude problem and Krishna who carried oxygen for other 2 Nepolis to 7800m, turned back. Just behind Troillet were 2 Colombians and 2 Sherpas and turned back at about 8200m. Troillet and Apa reached 8700m above snow at summit pyramid and back: Apa said here at 11:00 am was too late to get top to top at 1:00 pm and Troillet soon agreed too dangerous to continue alone and both down; his intention was to snowboard down so did, from 8700m to ABC (from 11:30 am to North Col 5:00 pm down again from Col shortly and arrived ABC at 6:00 pm): left ABC in night of 26 (2:30 am) and been to ABC on 27th.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452913
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Benedicte Hentsch M 1948 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Bank director Details Other expeditions
Eric Lehmann M 1947 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland President of broadcasting company Details Other expeditions
Michele Lehmann-Kim F 1964 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Publicist Details Other expeditions
Mireille Magnin F 1967 Switzerland Climber Orsieres, Valais, Switzerland Secretary Details Other expeditions
Olivier Roduit M 1965 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stephane Charles Joseph Schaffter M 1953 Switzerland Climber Veyrier, Geneva, Switzerland Alpine guide & cameraman Details Other expeditions
Jean Fernand Troillet M 1948 Switzerland Leader Orsieres, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Apa (Appa) Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Thami Og, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Krishna Bahadur (Jeta) Tamang M 1968 Nepal H-A Worker Kanku-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Phur Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:353 (1998) -
EVER97302 HIGH - - - 188:21 (Jul 1998) -
EVER97302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199835301/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Various-Activity-on-the-North-Side-and-Cho-Oyu-Various-Activity - - -