Everest | 1997 N Face (Japanese Coulior) (to 6400m)

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1997 via N Face (Japanese Coulior) (to 6400m), led by Masafumi Todaka. Summit reached on 27th September 1997. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2456
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97301
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Japanese Coulior) (to 6400m)
Route 2 N Col-NE Ridge (to 8000m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masafumi Todaka
Sponsor Feel Our Soul Chomolungma Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-07-24
Summit Date 1997-09-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 65
Total Days 72
Termination Date 1997-10-04
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to cold and wind
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Changzheng before and summit 13-14 Aug
Campsites BC(24/07,5150m),ABC(28/07,5600m),C1(22/08,6200m),ABC2(12/09,6400m),Biv(27/09,7800m),xxx(27/09,8000m)
Route Notes BC at normal site ABC little above East Rongbuk Glacier C1 at bottom of North Face for Japanese couloir attempt Second ABC at normal site for normal route attempts Biv near North Ridge High point near North Ridge. M Todaka first acclimatized on Changzheng to its 6950m for peak, which reached on 13 and 14, returned to ABC. Made C1 at bottom of Face for Couloir attacks but new snow came every night from Lho La and after one attempt up North Face, reaching only 6400m on 25 Aug, decided on 5 Sept to go to normal route. 12 Sept went to normal route ABC 6400m and in night tried to go to summit via North Col. 3:40 am 13th started up alone and got to 7600m where in afternoon avalanche passed 2 meters from him and back to normal ABC, 14th to North Face ABC. Then to Lhasa to rest (17-23 Sept in Lhasa). Cook took to BC his North Face ABC while he was in Lhasa. 26 Sept afternoon to normal route ABC again. 27th 3:40 am started up again and reached 7800m at noon, rested (no sleep - had no sleeping bag), now windy, 8:30 pm started for top; 10:00 pm at 8000m, stopped by very strong winds and retreated to 7800m where put up his small tent. 28th 8:00 am to BC. Waited till 2 Oct but cold and windy so now climb finished.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452941
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (japanese coulior) (to 6400m)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Masafumi Todaka M 1961 Japan Leader Yugawara, Kanagawa, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yumi Todaka F 1969 Japan Climber Yugawara, Kanagawa, Japan Outdoor instructor Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.