Everest | 1997 S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1997 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 23rd May 1997. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2270
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97126
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Malcolm Duff
Sponsor Ascent Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 263,269
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Mexico
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-03
Summit Date 1997-05-23
Summit Time 0945
Summit Days 50
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23,27/05)
Route Notes C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Delgado started for top at 11:20 pm on 22nd with Tenzing, who was carrying 4 oxygen bottles and using oxygen himself; at about 8500m at 3:00 am Delgado started to use oxygen and kept using it till return from summit and met Rodriguez at South Summit on his way up at 11:30 am (after Delgado spent 1-1/2 hours on top) and he was perfectly well but his oxygen almost finished; Delgado gave him Delgado's bottle and so Delgado finished his descent without it till 8500m where found a bottle which he used it till it used up almost at Col, where there was more. 26th May Muir's party left col 10:00-11:00 pm, on top at 10:30 am 27th (all 3 used oxygen) and returned safely to Col. Sherpa summiters: Keepa, Kharikhola, Everest twice before and other 8000m Tenzing, Thami, Everest 3 times before Dorje, Everest 5 times before (aka Dorje "Lambu" - Lambu means tall in Nepali) Jon Tinker, OTT Everest S Leader - 30 May 97 Best guess as to cause of Mal Duff's death is heart attack or something similar to cerebral thrombosis. He was found lying on his side with a book in his hands. No smell of liquor on him, no bottle in his tent although he was a heavy drinker. (Duff was best man at Tinker's wedding). Dr. Yuri Contreras, (H Todd Team) - 31 May 97 Duff's death very probably due to heart attack.
Accidents Duff probably died of heart attack on 22-23 April
Achievement 1st ascent by Australian woman
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452814
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael Burns M 1965 UK BC Manager Glasgow, Scotland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Luis Javier Corona M 1971 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Construction company director Details Other expeditions
Andres Delgado Calderon M 1969 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Mal) Duff M 1953 UK Leader Culross, Fife, Scotland Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Carlos Guevara Perada M 1973 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Telecommunications engineer Details Other expeditions
Brigitte Muir F 1958 Australia Climber Natimuk, Victoria, Australia Tour operator Details Other expeditions
Michael J. (Mike) Trueman M 1952 UK Deputy Leader Midhurst, W Surrey, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tenzing (Tenzen, Tenzi) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kipa/Keepa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Hille (Kharikhola), Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97126 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:306-308 (1998) -
EVER97126 HIGH - - - 179:26 (Oct 1997) -
EVER97126 - Muir, Brigitte The Wind In My Hair Viking, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia - -
EVER97126 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830603/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -