Everest | 1997 S Col-SE Ridge
A UK expedition to Everest in 1997 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 23rd May 1997. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2270 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER97126 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1997 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Malcolm Duff |
| Sponsor | Ascent Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 263,269 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, Mexico |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1997-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 1997-05-23 |
| Summit Time | 0945 |
| Summit Days | 50 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 7 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 6 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6100m),C2(15/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23,27/05) |
| Route Notes | C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Delgado started for top at 11:20 pm on 22nd with Tenzing, who was carrying 4 oxygen bottles and using oxygen himself; at about 8500m at 3:00 am Delgado started to use oxygen and kept using it till return from summit and met Rodriguez at South Summit on his way up at 11:30 am (after Delgado spent 1-1/2 hours on top) and he was perfectly well but his oxygen almost finished; Delgado gave him Delgado's bottle and so Delgado finished his descent without it till 8500m where found a bottle which he used it till it used up almost at Col, where there was more. 26th May Muir's party left col 10:00-11:00 pm, on top at 10:30 am 27th (all 3 used oxygen) and returned safely to Col. Sherpa summiters: Keepa, Kharikhola, Everest twice before and other 8000m Tenzing, Thami, Everest 3 times before Dorje, Everest 5 times before (aka Dorje "Lambu" - Lambu means tall in Nepali) Jon Tinker, OTT Everest S Leader - 30 May 97 Best guess as to cause of Mal Duff's death is heart attack or something similar to cerebral thrombosis. He was found lying on his side with a book in his hands. No smell of liquor on him, no bottle in his tent although he was a heavy drinker. (Duff was best man at Tinker's wedding). Dr. Yuri Contreras, (H Todd Team) - 31 May 97 Duff's death very probably due to heart attack. |
| Accidents | Duff probably died of heart attack on 22-23 April |
| Achievement | 1st ascent by Australian woman |
| Agency | Arun Treks |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452814 |
| Year | 1997 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michael Burns | M | 1965 | UK | BC Manager | Glasgow, Scotland | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Luis Javier Corona | M | 1971 | Mexico | Climber | Mexico City, Mexico | Construction company director | Details Other expeditions |
| Andres Delgado Calderon | M | 1969 | Mexico | Climber | Mexico City, Mexico | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Malcolm (Mal) Duff | M | 1953 | UK | Leader | Culross, Fife, Scotland | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Carlos Guevara Perada | M | 1973 | Mexico | Climber | Mexico City, Mexico | Telecommunications engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Brigitte Muir | F | 1958 | Australia | Climber | Natimuk, Victoria, Australia | Tour operator | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael J. (Mike) Trueman | M | 1952 | UK | Deputy Leader | Midhurst, W Surrey, England | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Tenzing (Tenzen, Tenzi) Sherpa | M | 1964 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kipa/Keepa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Hille (Kharikhola), Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1965 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER97126 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 72:306-308 (1998) | - |
| EVER97126 | HIGH | - | - | - | 179:26 (Oct 1997) | - |
| EVER97126 | - | Muir, Brigitte | The Wind In My Hair | Viking, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia | - | - |
| EVER97126 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830603/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon | - | - | - |