Everest | 1997 N Col-NE Ridge

A Pakistan expedition to Everest in 1997 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Nazir Sabir. Summit reached on 30th May 1997. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2256
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97123
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Pakistan
Leaders Nazir Sabir
Sponsor Pakistan Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1997-04-17
Summit Date 1997-05-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 43
Total Days 60
Termination Date 1997-06-16
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8560m due to winds
High Point (m) 8560
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/04,5200m),C1(23/04,6450m),C2(05/05,7060m),C3(27/05,7680m),C4(28/05,8300m),xxx(30/05,8560m)
Route Notes BC at road head C1 highest of this season's teams C2 at North Col C3 on North Ridge C4 on North Face High point below 2nd Step. 1st summit bid from C4 by 6 members Mohammad Sher Khan, Meharban Shah, Mohammad Ibrihim, Nazir Sabir, Rajab Shah, Rozi on 30 May and reached 40m below Second Step because very strong wind and at 1:30 pm turned back. Had started at 7:00 am, too late really but this had been advice of Pawlowski. Were worried about boots that were not good enough for extreme cold - slowed also by expectation to use other's fixed ropes which turned out to be in bad condition. Winds began blowing at 11:30 am, winds most terrible in Sher Khan's long experience. In Karakoram don't have such winds for more than a day at a time. Retreated to C4 where 3 stayed for another try. Meharban Khan, Nazir Sabir, Rajab Shah with food to come up on 31st and go to top on 1 June. But 30th night winds were ever much worse and had to go down to ABC/C1. Weather now turned excellent with winds dropped. On 5 June same six members made ascent C1 to C3 for another summit bid but forced to stay in C3 because of wind and could hardly "escape" to C1 on 7th. Muhammad Ibrahim blown off his feet and knee injured slightly. On 10th June left C1 to C3 (same six members) and again winds forced to stay in C3 for an extra day; 12th to C4 and 13th left 3:00 am for top and on top of 1st Step 4 members (except Mohammed Sher Khan & Nazir Sabir who were behind). Could see at 8:00 am winds were fierce and Nazir Sabir called off bid. Climb finished and all down to C1 that day. Pakistanis had expected to climb with Tibetans as joint expedition but Tibetans climbed as entirely separate team with own supplies, camps and high altitude porters (who carried for Pakistanis to North Col once and joined Tibetans members in helping Pakistanis clear North Col camp at end of climb); so on return form for Tibetans team.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452821
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ghulam Hassan M - Pakistan Climber Hunza Karimabad, Pakistan Tour guide Details Other expeditions
Mohammed Sher Khan M 1952 Pakistan Deputy Leader Gilgit, Pakistan Army Lieutenant Colonel Details Other expeditions
Meharban Shah M - Pakistan Climber Shingshal, Gilgit, Pakistan High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Mohammad Ibrahim M - Pakistan Climber Khaplu Khade, Ganche, Pakistan High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Muhammad Iqbal Khan M 1963 Pakistan Climber Jhang, Punjab, Pakistan Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Nazir Sabir M 1955 Pakistan Leader Islamabad, Pakistan Outfitter of adventure groups & education advisor Details Other expeditions
Rajab Shah M 1951 Pakistan Climber Shingshal, Gilgit, Pakistan High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Rozi M - Pakistan Climber Hushe, Ganche, Pakistan High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Safiullah Khan M 1962 Pakistan Exp Doctor Shakardara, Kohat, Pakistan Physician (army captain) Details Other expeditions
Sarwar Khan M - Pakistan Climber Raminji, Hunza, Pakistan Trekking guide Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97123 HIGH - - - 179:24 (Oct 1997) -