Everest | 1997 S Col-SE Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Everest in 1997 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Guy Cotter. Summit reached on 23rd May 1997. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2262
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97115
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Guy Cotter
Sponsor Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 1997
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 261
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Finland, Spain, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-09
Summit Date 1997-05-23
Summit Time 0650
Summit Days 44
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1997-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/04,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(18/04,7400m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
Route Notes First summit push was the successful push of 22-23 May. Had excellent weather forecasting from British office via satellite telephone calls so waited for good weather. Went to C2 on 4 May when forecasts said might be good period and stayed 3 nights (Viesturs 3 more nights), but winds got very bad (wind blew snow up SW Face). Left BC 19th, 1 day rest at C2, 21st to C3, 22nd to col and 23rd top. Left C4 at 10:00 pm on 22nd (sneaked out of camp to get ahead of 50 others at Col that day/night). On 19th nine people left BC but two Sherpas were intended as backup at Col, not summiters and stopped at Col. On way 1 km from South Summit Carter feeling ill and this became somewhat concern on return to Col 11:50 am (throat problem and Viesturs took down to C3 in 5 hours; Carter could barely breathe because clogging phalegm; slowly got better with heavy flow of oxygen for next couple of days and almost choked; a lot of his problem was fear). All of this team's summiters were on top between 6:50 and 7:10 am except Gustafsson (without any oxygen) at 8:10 am. Tashi Tenzing: as summit party reached top, full moon was setting and sun was rising: "two big orange ballons." It was Buddha's birthday and Tenzing left a six-inch bronze statue of Buddha on summit to give message of peace and compassion from top of world to everyone. He is sixth member of Tenzing Norgay's family to reach summit: Tenzing Norgay, 5/53 Nawang Gambu, 5/63 and 5/65 Dorjee Lhatoo, 5/84 (husband of Gambu's sister) Lobsang Tshering, 5/93 (died in descent) Jamling Tenzing, 5/96 Wed 14 May 1997 from Guy Cotter Guy mentioned yesterday that they hope to start moving up the mountain in a couple of days when they have an indication that the weather is going to improve and how invaluable the weather reporting system has been this year. Unbelievable he sounded in good form and there was no hint that the long wait in base camp was wearing him/them down. He said they did not want to go down to Pheriche for any further rest for fear of catching any infection! Wed 7 May 1997 After receiving a weather forecast at Everest Base Camp described as horrible for the next few days, Guy and Ed have made the decision to descend back to BC and all 5 on the AC team made it safely back there today. The next opening in the weather is not forecast until after 12 May so its back to the waiting game again. Guy reported in today from BC that this really is the option for them at the moment to be resting up for them at the moment to be resting up for the next summit attempt at BC, he and the others are in very good spirits and are prepared to be patient with the weather which looks like it is going to be abomniable for a while yet. Other teams at BC are now also ready to summit but they are getting impatient, Guy stated that everyone seems to be following the moves of the Adventure Consultants team (other teams now descending from C2) hence he and Ed feel a bit like the Pied Piperee! The weather forecasts are proving very valuable because unlike in previous years where a date was set and resources like oxygen and strength reserves were used while getting into position for a pre-determined date, they can now sit patiently until the best weather window is forecast and then move for the summit slopes with the best chance of succeeding. There is considerable concern about the number of teams who could try and summit on the same day next week, but due to the small strong team raring to go under the Adventure Consultants.
Accidents Nothing except Carter's serious throat problem
Achievement 1st grandson of a summiter
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452814
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
David Carter M 1962 USA Climber Indianapolis, Indiana Lumber company owner Details Other expeditions
Edmund Guy Cotter M 1962 New Zealand Leader Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
David Fearnley M 1951 New Zealand Exp Doctor Christchurch, New Zealand Physician Details Other expeditions
Enrique Guallart-Furio M 1957 Spain Climber Valencia, Spain Banker Details Other expeditions
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson M 1968 Finland Climber Espoo, Helsinki, Finland Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Colin Sutherland M 1952 New Zealand BC Manager Wanaka, New Zealand Caterer Details Other expeditions
Tashi Wangchuk Tenzing M 1965 Australia Climber Naremburn, Sydney, NSW, Australia Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Edmund Karl (Ed) Viesturs M 1959 USA Deputy Leader Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Peter Weeks M 1953 Australia Climber Sterling, SA, Australia Supermarkets owner/manager Details Other expeditions
Chuldim Dorje (Ang Dorje) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering/Tsiri Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97115 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:306-308 (1998) -
EVER97115 HIGH - - - 179:25 (Oct 1997) -
EVER97115 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830603/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -