Everest | 1997 S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1997 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 27th May 1997. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2271
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97109
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Audio Everest Expedition 1997
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 270
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Mexico, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-05
Summit Date 1997-05-27
Summit Time 0900
Summit Days 52
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-971-01)
Campsites BC(05/04,5350),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(26/05,7900m),Smt(27/05)
Route Notes 27 May 10:45 left for top from C4: Contreras, Pauls and Dawa Sana - reached top 9:00 am after having to make trail in deep snow (Contreras and Dawa broke trail); Pauls arrived at top 20 minutes after 1st 2 men). During descent Contreras felt badly at 8700m and oxygen ran out; Latvian's oxygen finished at 8600m and both made very slow descent and arrive Col at 5:00 pm (Pauls) and 7:00 pm (Contreras). Contreras very happy to make his 2nd ascent by route new to him, but "north side more beautiful." Oxygen: Todd and Watts from C3 Contreras, Pauls and Dawa at and above C4 Sherpa summiter Dawa Sona, 29, Pangboche, this his first 8000m summit. Peta Watts was at South Col with Everest summiters (so was Todd but had no intention of trying for its summit, but intended to summit Lhotse from Col after return of summit team) but Contreras came back with frostbite and as leader, Todd obliged to help him. Watts left Col what ten minutes after summit party, turned back after an hour with pains in chest; Pemba Dorje and Ang Tshering up with her and down with her; she slept on Col that night and strong next day and helped bring down Contreras.
Accidents Conley retinal hemorrhage at 6400m & left early; Contreras frostbitten fingers one hand but will heal
Achievement 1st Latvian American to summit Everest from both sides of Everest
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452818
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuri Contreras Cedi M 1963 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Gregory (Greg) Conley M 1947 Ireland Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Airline pilot & property company owner Details Other expeditions
Barbara B. Gurtler F 1934 USA Climber Peoria, Illinois Housewife Details Other expeditions
Ilgvars Pauls M 1957 Latvia Climber Cesis, Latvia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Edinburgh, Scotland Expedition organizer & leader Details Other expeditions
Peta Watts F 1955 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Rock-climbing guide Details Other expeditions
Charles Scott Woolums M 1957 USA Deputy Leader Hood River, Oregon Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Climber Colere, Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Dawa Sona (Da Sona, Da Sonam) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Dorje Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tshering (Ang Tshering) Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97109 HIGH - - - 179:27 (Oct 1997) -