Everest | 1997 N Col-NE Ridge

A Kazakhstan expedition to Everest in 1997 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Ervand T. Ilyinski. Summit reached on 2nd May 1997. 27 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2248
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97108
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Ervand T. Ilyinski
Sponsor Kazakh Military Expedition to Everest
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 249,251,254,257
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Canada, Georgia, Russia
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1997-04-05
Summit Date 1997-05-02
Summit Time 1800
Summit Days 27
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1997-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 27
Summit Members 13
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6450m),C1(12/04,7050m),C2(21/04,7800m),C3(01/05,8300m),Smt(02,07,20,22/05)
Route Notes C1 at North Col C2 slightly to right of ridge C3 on North face. 2 May Souviga, Frolov, Molotov, Ovsharenko left C3 at 7:45 am (Chinese time) and all 4 reached summit at 6:00-6:30 pm in fog sometimes but no wind - in fog could could not find C3 and spent night at 8000-8100m in fog and dark without any biv gears: stopped descent 11:00 pm and tried to move snow to rest in (Frolov serious frostbite and Ovsharenko not serious). 3 May to C2 and 4 May to ABC (Frolov to KTM with Toumailis whose 3 Russian compatriots had died on 7 May). 7 May the group of 4 Russian members left C3 for top at 9:30 (except Toumailis who not feeling well enough for summit and went down to C1) - other 3 went up; Torochin at 2:00 pm turned back from about 8600m and fell about 300m from 8500m on ridge and body seen by Sherpas and later by Kazakhs; other 2 Russians reached summit at 6:00 pm, they reported by walkie-talkie and then disappeared; at about 8700m (10m apart) both bodies seen later (Chevtchenko in only T-shirt; Plotnikov lying on back on rucksack with hand on his face). 20 May from C3 up for attempt to go to top; 6 Kazakh members Grekov, Lavrov, Mouravev, Sobolev, Savina; at 3:25 pm other 4 and slept in C3 and all Ok. On 22 May Evans up from C3 to top with Pepevnik of Croatian team. Evans: technical climbing above last camp very difficult especially after have slept as high as 8300m. Summited at 10:30 am NST after having left C3 at 4:15 am, on top in fine weather and with both he and Pepe down to C1 that night. Expedition climbed in groups of 4 (with 4 Russians in same group) or 3 in case of Canada-US-Australian but was one expedition under single leadership using some tents, food, etc.
Accidents Frolov serious frostbite; Ovsharenko mild frostbite; 3 dead on summit attempt
Achievement 1st Kazakh woman to top
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452793
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

27 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nikolai Chevtchenko M 1944 Russia Climber Barnaul, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Evans M 1961 Canada/USA Climber Calgary, Alberta Geologist Details Other expeditions
Konstantin Farafonov M 1968 Kazakhstan Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Frolov M 1973 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan University student of English Details Other expeditions
Shafkhet Gataoulin M 1968 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Army alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Grekov M 1964 Russia Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Army alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski M 1940 Kazakhstan Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Army alpinist & director of travel agency Details Other expeditions
Peter Jungen M 1946 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta - Details Other expeditions
Rinat Khabibulin M 1960 Kazakhstan Deputy Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Manager of travel agency Details Other expeditions
Sergei V. Lavrov M 1965 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Valentin Makarov M 1947 Kazakhstan Exp Doctor Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Physician Details Other expeditions
Oleg Malikov M 1961 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mikhailov M 1972 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Army alpinist Details Other expeditions
Yuri Moiseev M 1954 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Andrei Molotov M 1973 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Mouravev M 1967 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Tatiana Nalivayko F 1969 Kazakhstan Journalist Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Journalist Details Other expeditions
Sergei Ovsharenko M 1963 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ivan Plotnikov M 1960 Russia Climber Barnaul, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Lyudmila Savina F 1955 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Sobolev M 1961 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Souviga M 1953 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Army alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Zaira Syzdykova F 1949 Kazakhstan BC Manager Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Hydrologist Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Torochin M 1951 Russia Climber Barnaul, Russia Mountain rescuer Details Other expeditions
Gia Tortladze M 1960 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Archeologist Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Toumialis M 1957 Russia Climber Barnaul, Russia Mountain rescue official Details Other expeditions
Paul Walters M 1965 Australia Climber Riyadh, Saudi Arabia High school teacher Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97108 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:306-308 (1998) -
EVER97108 HIGH - - - 179:22-23 (Oct 1997) -
EVER97108 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830603/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -