Everest | 1997 N Col-NE Ridge
A Kazakhstan expedition to Everest in 1997 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Ervand T. Ilyinski. Summit reached on 2nd May 1997. 27 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2248 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER97108 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1997 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Kazakhstan |
| Leaders | Ervand T. Ilyinski |
| Sponsor | Kazakh Military Expedition to Everest |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 249,251,254,257 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, Canada, Georgia, Russia |
| Approach | KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1997-04-05 |
| Summit Date | 1997-05-02 |
| Summit Time | 1800 |
| Summit Days | 27 |
| Total Days | 49 |
| Termination Date | 1997-05-24 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 27 |
| Summit Members | 13 |
| Member Deaths | 3 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(05/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6450m),C1(12/04,7050m),C2(21/04,7800m),C3(01/05,8300m),Smt(02,07,20,22/05) |
| Route Notes | C1 at North Col C2 slightly to right of ridge C3 on North face. 2 May Souviga, Frolov, Molotov, Ovsharenko left C3 at 7:45 am (Chinese time) and all 4 reached summit at 6:00-6:30 pm in fog sometimes but no wind - in fog could could not find C3 and spent night at 8000-8100m in fog and dark without any biv gears: stopped descent 11:00 pm and tried to move snow to rest in (Frolov serious frostbite and Ovsharenko not serious). 3 May to C2 and 4 May to ABC (Frolov to KTM with Toumailis whose 3 Russian compatriots had died on 7 May). 7 May the group of 4 Russian members left C3 for top at 9:30 (except Toumailis who not feeling well enough for summit and went down to C1) - other 3 went up; Torochin at 2:00 pm turned back from about 8600m and fell about 300m from 8500m on ridge and body seen by Sherpas and later by Kazakhs; other 2 Russians reached summit at 6:00 pm, they reported by walkie-talkie and then disappeared; at about 8700m (10m apart) both bodies seen later (Chevtchenko in only T-shirt; Plotnikov lying on back on rucksack with hand on his face). 20 May from C3 up for attempt to go to top; 6 Kazakh members Grekov, Lavrov, Mouravev, Sobolev, Savina; at 3:25 pm other 4 and slept in C3 and all Ok. On 22 May Evans up from C3 to top with Pepevnik of Croatian team. Evans: technical climbing above last camp very difficult especially after have slept as high as 8300m. Summited at 10:30 am NST after having left C3 at 4:15 am, on top in fine weather and with both he and Pepe down to C1 that night. Expedition climbed in groups of 4 (with 4 Russians in same group) or 3 in case of Canada-US-Australian but was one expedition under single leadership using some tents, food, etc. |
| Accidents | Frolov serious frostbite; Ovsharenko mild frostbite; 3 dead on summit attempt |
| Achievement | 1st Kazakh woman to top |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452793 |
| Year | 1997 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
27 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nikolai Chevtchenko | M | 1944 | Russia | Climber | Barnaul, Russia | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew (Andy) Evans | M | 1961 | Canada/USA | Climber | Calgary, Alberta | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Konstantin Farafonov | M | 1968 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Karaganda, Kazakhstan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Frolov | M | 1973 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | University student of English | Details Other expeditions |
| Shafkhet Gataoulin | M | 1968 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Army alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Dmitri Grekov | M | 1964 | Russia | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Army alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski | M | 1940 | Kazakhstan | Leader | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Army alpinist & director of travel agency | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Jungen | M | 1946 | Canada | Climber | Calgary, Alberta | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Rinat Khabibulin | M | 1960 | Kazakhstan | Deputy Leader | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Manager of travel agency | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei V. Lavrov | M | 1965 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Valentin Makarov | M | 1947 | Kazakhstan | Exp Doctor | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Oleg Malikov | M | 1961 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikhail Mikhailov | M | 1972 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Army alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuri Moiseev | M | 1954 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrei Molotov | M | 1973 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Dmitri Mouravev | M | 1967 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Tatiana Nalivayko | F | 1969 | Kazakhstan | Journalist | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Ovsharenko | M | 1963 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Ivan Plotnikov | M | 1960 | Russia | Climber | Barnaul, Russia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Lyudmila Savina | F | 1955 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Dmitri Sobolev | M | 1961 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Souviga | M | 1953 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Army alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Zaira Syzdykova | F | 1949 | Kazakhstan | BC Manager | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Hydrologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexandre Torochin | M | 1951 | Russia | Climber | Barnaul, Russia | Mountain rescuer | Details Other expeditions |
| Gia Tortladze | M | 1960 | Georgia | Climber | Tbilisi, Georgia | Archeologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Toumialis | M | 1957 | Russia | Climber | Barnaul, Russia | Mountain rescue official | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Walters | M | 1965 | Australia | Climber | Riyadh, Saudi Arabia | High school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER97108 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 72:306-308 (1998) | - |
| EVER97108 | HIGH | - | - | - | 179:22-23 (Oct 1997) | - |
| EVER97108 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830603/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon | - | - | - |