Everest | 1997 N Face (a rib to 7500m)-N Ridge

A Russia expedition to Everest in 1997 via N Face (a rib to 7500m)-N Ridge, led by Valeri Kouzin, Kazbek Khamistaev. Summit reached on 24th May 1997. 22 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2247
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97102
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (a rib to 7500m)-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Valeri Kouzin, Kazbek Khamistaev
Sponsor Russian Scientific Expedition to Everest 1997
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 266
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1997-03-21
Summit Date 1997-05-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 64
Total Days 67
Termination Date 1997-05-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1500
Total Members 22
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/03,5200m),ABC(27/03,5555m),IC(01/04,5800m),C1(03/04,6400m),C1B(18/04,6700m),C2(26/04,7100m),C3(22/05,7700m),C4(23/05,8300m),Smt(24/05)
Route Notes ABC at 5555 Int Camp at bottom of face C2 on North Face C3 on North Ridge. Yaks could go no higher than 5555m and this was first problem. Route on unclimbed ridge on North Face-Ridge was very difficult rock covered by hard ice which in turn covered by powder snow so difficult to fix rope but did fix 1350m C1 to C2 and 150m more till decided at 7500m to abandon this direct line and traverse to left to join classical route. C3 reached via traverse by 8 members but did not sleep in C3 but immediately descended. From C3 Zelenski and Sokolov only tried for summit because not enough food, oxygen gas and good weather for more 6 members descended via ascent route. On 15 May weather bad and all teams down. On 22 May Zelenski and Sokolov returned to C3 via North Face route where had all gear while Ang Rita via North Col, but Ang Rita immediately down again saying he was sick ("Ang Rita was no help on this climb"). 2 Russians made C4 23 May, summited 24th and slept C4. 25th to North Col in descent via normal route because too much snow and wind and bad visability to use face route. Ridge was 3rd ridge from left on North Face.
Accidents Doctor altitude sickness & left early; Kabissov altitude sick and BC only
Achievement New North Face route attempted
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452815
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (a rib to 7500m)-n ridge

Members

22 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergei Bachmanov M 1960 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Fedor Chouliev M 1966 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Emergency services staff member Details Other expeditions
Geroge Gatagov M 1962 Russia Climber Belsan, Ossetia, Russia Domestic trader Details Other expeditions
Eugene Goudenko M 1976 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Student of computer programming Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Goudenko M 1946 Russia Exp Trainer Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Student of computer programming Details Other expeditions
Kazbek Khamistaev M 1948 Russia Climbing Leader Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Advisor to minister of nationalities and external affairs Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Korenkov M 1956 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Military school teacher Details Other expeditions
Valeri Kouzin M 1963 Russia Leader Moscow, Russia Director of Russian Academy of Physical Culture and Sports Details Other expeditions
Sergei Minchenko M 1958 Russia Climber Stavropol, Russia Advisor to auto enterprise director Details Other expeditions
Maxim Nagornov M 1975 Russia Interpreter Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Student of electronics industry Details Other expeditions
Juri Projaev M 1961 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Turner Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Roubaev M 1952 Russia Exp Doctor Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Anesthesiologist Details Other expeditions
Oleg Ryzhanov M 1960 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Taimouraz Salamov M 1945 Russia Exp Doctor Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Sergei Sokolov M 1942 Russia Climber Zlatoust, Chalyabinsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Stadeev M 1976 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Student in technical university Details Other expeditions
Victor Tshesniak M 1943 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Businessman Details Other expeditions
Maxim Volkov M 1964 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Director of international trading company Details Other expeditions
Viatcheslav Volkov M 1967 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Emergency services staff member Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Zelenski M 1960 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Gennadi Zevakhine M 1968 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Emergency services staff member Details Other expeditions
Artur Kabissov M 1972 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Trader Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:352 (1998) -
EVER97102 HIGH - - - 179:24 (Oct 1997) -
EVER97102 HIGH - - - 198:36 (May 1999) -
EVER97102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199835203/Asia-Tibet-Mt-Everest-North-Face-Variation - - -