Everest | 1997 S Col-SE Ridge
A Indonesia expedition to Everest in 1997 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Edhie Wibowo. Summit reached on 26th April 1997. 18 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2274 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER97101 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1997 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Indonesia |
| Leaders | Edhie Wibowo |
| Sponsor | Indonesian Everest Expedition 1997 (South) |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 248 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Kazakhstan, Russia |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1997-03-19 |
| Summit Date | 1997-04-26 |
| Summit Time | 1425 |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 43 |
| Termination Date | 1997-05-01 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 16 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 16 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Attempted Everest N side (EVER-971-03) |
| Campsites | BC(19/03,5350m),C1(22/03,6100m),C2(27/03,6500m),C3(06/04,7300m),C4(25/04,7900m),C5(26/04,8500m),Smt(26/04) |
| Route Notes | C2 in West Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col C5 before South Summit (biv with one 2-man tent as cover for 8 men on descent). Indonesian Everest - south side 26 April 12:55 am summit party left BC: Asmujiono, Misirin, Iwan Irawan, Bachkirov, Boukreev, Vinogradski, Apa, Dawa Nuru and 7 more Sherpas (total 15). 7 Sherpas stopped below Hillary Step because weather cold and snowing and party was slow (2:00 pm when stopped on Russian instruction). Vinogradski and Iwan stopped at 8800m because Iwan very tired and slow; reached biv-C5 at 8:00 pm with 3 others who summitted. Apa and Anatoli made trail to top and others followed. Apa and Anatoli on summit 2:25 pm; other 3 summiters at 3:26 pm. Hillary Step very dangerous because very steep and very high altitude 27th biv, party started down at 9:30 am, when sun's warmth reached them and slept at C4: reached C2 on 28th. No more summit parties sent up because national team had succeeded already and with uncertainty about weather did not want to take more risk. In C5 climbers thought all oxygen finished, but found 4 bottles on 27th and used it. Misirin "ran" to summit for last 50m after shouting a call to the spirits "commando!" Boukreev said; it was he who told Iwan Setiawan that he must turn back only 10 vertical meters before summit; Boukreev wanted no tragedy; this despite Indonesians motto "tis better to die than fail." Rochadi - 12 May 97: Misirin blacked out for more of 2 minutes at summit; Vinogradski (a doctor) pulled him to his feet and he was Ok (had raced to summit too quickly). Misirin did not actually reach the summit of Everest. Boukreev wrote in his book, The Climb, pages 247-8," ... I ordered everyone down. Vinogradski turned and went to Iwan, who was about eighty meters from the summit poles. I reached Misirin, thirty meters from his goal. I knelt beside him, collapsed in the snow. I told Misirin he had achieved the summit. I was amazed to see him stand, collect his power, and begin the descent. We encountered Vinogradski and Iwan descending one hundred meters below the summit. It had been difficult to turn these men around, they had come so far, but now I insisted. Every minute was important. We would compromise our plan for survival if we did not descend in the light of the day." |
| Accidents | Iwan Setiawan fell 5 times on Hillary Step but not hurt |
| Achievement | 1st South Asian men atop Everest |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452787 |
| Year | 1997 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
18 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adiseno | M | 1959 | Indonesia | Journalist | Jakarta, Indonesia | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Asmujiono | M | 1971 | Indonesia | Climber | Jakarta, Indonesia | Army Private | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Bachkirov | M | 1952 | Russia | Climber | Korolev (Kaliningrad), Russia | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Anatoli Boukreev | M | 1958 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpine guide & instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Darlin | M | 1971 | Indonesia | Climber | Jakarta, Indonesia | Army Private First Class | Details Other expeditions |
| Edi Waluyo | M | 1968 | Indonesia | Climber | Jakarta, Indonesia | Army Private | Details Other expeditions |
| Galih Donikara | M | 1965 | Indonesia | Climber | Bandung, West Java, Indonesia | Outdoor activities instructor (Outward Bound) | Details Other expeditions |
| Iwan Irawan | M | 1972 | Indonesia | Climber | Bandung, West Java, Indonesia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Iwan Setiawan | M | 1968 | Indonesia | Leader (South side) | Jakarta, Indonesia | Army 1st Lieutenant | Details Other expeditions |
| Misirin | M | 1966 | Indonesia | Climber | Jakarta, Indonesia | Army Sergeant | Details Other expeditions |
| Ripto Mulyono | M | 1965 | Indonesia | Climber | Jakarta, Indonesia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Rochadi | M | 1962 | Indonesia | BC Manager | Jakarta, Indonesia | Army Captain | Details Other expeditions |
| Sixida Sugiarto | M | 1969 | Indonesia | Climber | Jakarta, Indonesia | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Suparno | M | 1961 | Indonesia | Climber | Bandung, West Java, Indonesia | Army Sergeant | Details Other expeditions |
| Evgeni Vinogradski | M | 1946 | Russia | Exp Doctor | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Edhie Wibowo | M | 1955 | Indonesia | General Leader | Jakarta, Indonesia | Army Colonel | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Nuru/Norbu Sherpa | M | 1963 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Apa (Appa) Sherpa | M | 1960 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami Og, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER97101 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 72:306-308 (1998) | - |
| EVER97101 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 72:309-310 (1998) | - |
| EVER97101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 179:24-25 (Oct 1997) | - |
| EVER97101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 179:22 (Oct 1997) | - |
| EVER97101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830603/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon | - | - | - |
| EVER97101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830900/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Group-Attempted-Traverse | - | - | - |