Everest | 1997 S Col-SE Ridge

A Indonesia expedition to Everest in 1997 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Edhie Wibowo. Summit reached on 26th April 1997. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2274
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER97101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Indonesia
Leaders Edhie Wibowo
Sponsor Indonesian Everest Expedition 1997 (South)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 248
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Kazakhstan, Russia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-03-19
Summit Date 1997-04-26
Summit Time 1425
Summit Days 38
Total Days 43
Termination Date 1997-05-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 16
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Everest N side (EVER-971-03)
Campsites BC(19/03,5350m),C1(22/03,6100m),C2(27/03,6500m),C3(06/04,7300m),C4(25/04,7900m),C5(26/04,8500m),Smt(26/04)
Route Notes C2 in West Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col C5 before South Summit (biv with one 2-man tent as cover for 8 men on descent). Indonesian Everest - south side 26 April 12:55 am summit party left BC: Asmujiono, Misirin, Iwan Irawan, Bachkirov, Boukreev, Vinogradski, Apa, Dawa Nuru and 7 more Sherpas (total 15). 7 Sherpas stopped below Hillary Step because weather cold and snowing and party was slow (2:00 pm when stopped on Russian instruction). Vinogradski and Iwan stopped at 8800m because Iwan very tired and slow; reached biv-C5 at 8:00 pm with 3 others who summitted. Apa and Anatoli made trail to top and others followed. Apa and Anatoli on summit 2:25 pm; other 3 summiters at 3:26 pm. Hillary Step very dangerous because very steep and very high altitude 27th biv, party started down at 9:30 am, when sun's warmth reached them and slept at C4: reached C2 on 28th. No more summit parties sent up because national team had succeeded already and with uncertainty about weather did not want to take more risk. In C5 climbers thought all oxygen finished, but found 4 bottles on 27th and used it. Misirin "ran" to summit for last 50m after shouting a call to the spirits "commando!" Boukreev said; it was he who told Iwan Setiawan that he must turn back only 10 vertical meters before summit; Boukreev wanted no tragedy; this despite Indonesians motto "tis better to die than fail." Rochadi - 12 May 97: Misirin blacked out for more of 2 minutes at summit; Vinogradski (a doctor) pulled him to his feet and he was Ok (had raced to summit too quickly). Misirin did not actually reach the summit of Everest. Boukreev wrote in his book, The Climb, pages 247-8," ... I ordered everyone down. Vinogradski turned and went to Iwan, who was about eighty meters from the summit poles. I reached Misirin, thirty meters from his goal. I knelt beside him, collapsed in the snow. I told Misirin he had achieved the summit. I was amazed to see him stand, collect his power, and begin the descent. We encountered Vinogradski and Iwan descending one hundred meters below the summit. It had been difficult to turn these men around, they had come so far, but now I insisted. Every minute was important. We would compromise our plan for survival if we did not descend in the light of the day."
Accidents Iwan Setiawan fell 5 times on Hillary Step but not hurt
Achievement 1st South Asian men atop Everest
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452787
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adiseno M 1959 Indonesia Journalist Jakarta, Indonesia Journalist Details Other expeditions
Asmujiono M 1971 Indonesia Climber Jakarta, Indonesia Army Private Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Bachkirov M 1952 Russia Climber Korolev (Kaliningrad), Russia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide & instructor Details Other expeditions
Darlin M 1971 Indonesia Climber Jakarta, Indonesia Army Private First Class Details Other expeditions
Edi Waluyo M 1968 Indonesia Climber Jakarta, Indonesia Army Private Details Other expeditions
Galih Donikara M 1965 Indonesia Climber Bandung, West Java, Indonesia Outdoor activities instructor (Outward Bound) Details Other expeditions
Iwan Irawan M 1972 Indonesia Climber Bandung, West Java, Indonesia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Iwan Setiawan M 1968 Indonesia Leader (South side) Jakarta, Indonesia Army 1st Lieutenant Details Other expeditions
Misirin M 1966 Indonesia Climber Jakarta, Indonesia Army Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Ripto Mulyono M 1965 Indonesia Climber Jakarta, Indonesia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rochadi M 1962 Indonesia BC Manager Jakarta, Indonesia Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Sixida Sugiarto M 1969 Indonesia Climber Jakarta, Indonesia Attorney Details Other expeditions
Suparno M 1961 Indonesia Climber Bandung, West Java, Indonesia Army Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Vinogradski M 1946 Russia Exp Doctor Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Edhie Wibowo M 1955 Indonesia General Leader Jakarta, Indonesia Army Colonel Details Other expeditions
Dawa Nuru/Norbu Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Apa (Appa) Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Thami Og, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER97101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:306-308 (1998) -
EVER97101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:309-310 (1998) -
EVER97101 HIGH - - - 179:24-25 (Oct 1997) -
EVER97101 HIGH - - - 179:22 (Oct 1997) -
EVER97101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830603/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -
EVER97101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830900/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Group-Attempted-Traverse - - -