Everest | 1996 N Col-NE Ridge

A Germany expedition to Everest in 1996 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Peter Kowalzik. Summit reached on 24th May 1996. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1762
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96126
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Peter Kowalzik
Sponsor International Mountain Climbing (IMC) Everest Expedition 1996
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 244
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Mexico
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-17
Summit Date 1996-05-24
Summit Time 1344
Summit Days 37
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1996-05-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(17/04,5200m),ABC(20/04,6470m),C1(27/04,7000m),C2(08/05,7800m),C3(09/05,8250m),Smt(24/05)
Route Notes C1 at North Col C2 on North Ridge C3 on North Face. 10th May Kowalzik and Rohrmoser left C3 8250m to go to top and reached bottom of 2nd Step (8600m) and back down all the way to C2 7800m (Kowalzik was quite confused when Ponce Le Leon talked to him on 11th). Delgado had slept at C3 and on 10th to C2 because very weak from altitude (Ponce de Leon was at ABC resting from load carrying to 7800m). 11th May Kowalzik and Rohrmoser, arrived at ABC at 4:00 pm (Chinese time) having left Delgado at C2: told Ponce de Leon that Delgado acting very strangely. Ponce de Leon immediately went up to C2, leaving ABC at 5:30 pm alone hoping to find him at C1 (7000m-North Col) reached C1 at 8:30 pm but Delgado not in their tent. Norwegians were there and calmed him down and helped him to realize it was senseless for him to continue up during night against very strong winds. 12th May left at 7:30 am in terrible winds and took 6 hours (crawling on rock, standing up in snow) to reach C2; Delgado not in their tent but was 20m lower in Norwegian tent in bad shape alone, weak couldn't lift his head. Ponce de Leon gave him injection for cerebral edema, and managed to crawl to the British tent and Ponce de Leon put him on British oxygen and now better. 13th at 12:30 pm still bad winds and met Italian rescue team with Contreras about 200m below C2 at 2:00 pm (Delgado very slow, still on oxygen); all to ABC on 14th; Kowalzik and Rohrmoser at ABC. When you're on lifts team, margin for error zero - no resources when in trouble, going to need help from other expeditions when 2 members walk away from a man in trouble. No oxygen, no Sherpas with this expedition. Ponce de Leon to BC on 15th from where Delgado escorted to KTM on 16th by Kowalzik and Rohrmoser. Contreras stayed at ABC. 21 May 2 remaining Mexicans left ABC, both now taking oxygen for the climb - reached North Col on 21st; 22nd to C2 from which someone had removed (probably by mistake by British Sherpa) but found abandoned in Japanese tent at 7600m and used it. 23rd up to C3. 24th started to use oxygen; left camp at 8:00 am and 8:30 am and got to top at 13:44 (Contreras) and 14:40 (Ponce de Leon) in incredible weather, no wind, no clouds, not cold; down to C3 at 20:30 and stayed there; used no oxygen while in camp. *Italin rescue team from Lugli's expedition and actually 2 Italians and a Swiss. May 10th Kowalzik and Rohrmoser without oxygen tried for top and reached bottom of 2nd Step (8650m). Left C3 7:00 am (Chinese time) after having tried to go up earlier in dark and could not find their way so back to C3 till daylight. From same good old ropes and Kowalzik know way to 1st Step from '91 - reached 2nd Step 1:00 pm but by then strong, very cold wind had started and decided they could reach top but risk too great that would have very bad frostbite "at minimum" so started down at 1:15 pm and returned to C2. Indians started to follow then very late at 10:00 am (Indians using oxygen) and met just below 1st Step at about 3:00. 1 Indian who said maybe he would go on to top; 4 more Indians met at about 8400m below North Ridge at 4:00 pm and said training with oxygen masks but not going to top (not properly clothed for summit); however 2 of them went on up (names not known). Surely none of Indians reached summit because of bad weather, no fixed ropes and late hour, but on 11th Japanese and Sherpas passed 3 live Indians on way to summit but did nothing to rescue them. Kowalzik talked to Japanese, Sherpas who said 3 Indians were still alive but too close to death to be able to help them this despite fact many oxygen bottles lying at 1st and 2nd Steps. Kowalzik and Rohrmoser returned to C2 at 8:00 and 9:00 pm. Kowalzik summit day got frostbitten nose and next day frostbitten fingers but all will heal. Delgado was in last camp with Kowalzik and Rohrmoser but did not try for top and on 10th May down to C2; that night Rohrmoser started to get blind from both eyes from altitude and all 3 very tired; Kowalzik could not keep anything inside himself; 11 May still strong wind and cold but Kowalzik and Rohrmoser had to go on down so Kowalzik and Rohrmoser left camp at 8:30 and 7:30 am while Delgado stayed to finish cooking and to follow them 1/2-1 hour later. Wind so strong couldn't stand up but managed to get down to 7400m where winds abated, rested at North Col and reached ABC at 3:00 pm. Delgado never came. 11th evening Ponce Del Leon, his friend, went up to meet and help him if necessary and if not necessary and go on to top. 12th May reached Delgado at 2:00 pm in C2 tent of Norwegian expedition waiting for better weather but now near death; Ponce de Leon borrowed oxygen from British. All of this team knew risk to go without oxygen and Sherpas. 12 May expedition doctor and 3 Italians went up to meet 2 Mexicans; reached North Col 8:00 pm using British oxygen (3 big Russian bottles used); 14th down ABC in 3 hours at 2:00 pm; at ABC many doctors treated for pulmonary edema and frozen toes; 15th 3 yak drivers for Greeks came to ABC and drivers carried Delgado to midway to BC, yaks from there got him to BC and same evening drove to Tingri; 16 May to Kathmandu and CIWEC clinic, where doctor told will not lose toes; leaves KTM 19th May (so do Kowalzik and Rohrmoser). Hector and Doctor trying for top about 21-2 May, doctor using oxygen he brought in KTM. *Italians were from Lugli expedition: Aedo Verzoroli (actually Swiss), Battista Galbiati and Filippo Sala.
Accidents Delgado pulmonary and cerebral edema and badly frostbitten toes (may lose end of one toe)
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452449
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuri Contreras Cedi M 1963 Mexico Exp Doctor Mexico City, Mexico Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Andres Delgado Calderon M 1969 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Peter Andreas Kowalzik M 1967 Germany Leader Ludwigshafen, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Hector Mario Ponce de Leon Gomez M 1966 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Professional alpinist & guide Details Other expeditions
Thomas (Tom) Rohrmoser M 1969 Austria Climber Rauris, Salzburg, Austria Manager of air-taxi business and parapenter Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.