Everest | 1996 N Col-N Face (Great Couloir) (to 8300m)

A Hungary expedition to Everest in 1996 via N Col-N Face (Great Couloir) (to 8300m), led by Sandor Nagy. Summit reached on 7th May 1996. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1764
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96122
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-N Face (Great Couloir) (to 8300m)
Route 2 N Col-N Face (Great Couloir)-N Ridge (to 8250m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Hungary
Leaders Sandor Nagy
Sponsor Hungarian Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-13
Summit Date 1996-05-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1996-05-28
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8250m due to bad weather and member death
High Point (m) 8300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(13/04),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(24/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7820m),xxx(07/05,8300m),Indian.C3(17/05,8250m)
Route Notes C1 at North Col C2 very near North Ridge C3 on North face (normal route). Reinhard Wlasich, Akos Koncz and Zsolt Eross started from C1 on May 1; Koncz not feeling well and turned back while other 2 reached and pitched C2. 2 May they down to ABC and rested. 5 May from ABC same 3 men and Mrs Elizabeth Wlasich and went to C1. 6 May 3 men started up from C1 but Koncz and Reinhard Wlasich both not well and strong wind: Zsolt Eross reached C2 alone. 7 May Zsolt made traverse to Great Couloir and reached 8300m in couloir and found old tents too badly damaged to use and dug snowhole for night. 8 May down to C1 to sleep and 9 May to ABC. Next serious climb was 14 May from ABC by Zsolt and Reinhard and reached C2 on 15 May. Slovenians had left 5 bottles oxygen in Great Couloir, so these 2 had bought oxygen masks from Slovenians, so 16 May they again traversed to Couloir to find and use oxygen but didn't find them (Sherpa maybe moved them) and same day back to C2. 17 May the two went to Indians' C3 and used their tent there at about 8250m. 18 May decided to stay in C3 because bad weather and not in good condition and at 2:00 pm Reinhard became seriously ill (both pulmonary and cerebral edema) and died 1:45 am despite oxygen and medicine from Norwegian doctor coming down from summit. Body left in C3 of Indians - morale low because of death. 31 May - after Wlasich's death no time and no strength and no more motivation to make fresh summit bid. Yaks ordered for 24th. No more climbing except to clean C2 and C1. S Gangdal- 22 May 96 5 days before Austrian member died (Reinhard Wlasich) started from ABC for Col and 1 Hungarian having planned to climb without oxygen, but after member now fatigued asked other teams for oxygen. On 14 May left Col and J Gangdal got to 7800m and slept there with oxygen, went to Slovenian tent in Great Couloir but no oxygen there so went back to couloir 7800m and slept there - behaved strangely but on 16th went up to 8300m - no camp in 10 hours with Hungarian. 18th May was asked if he going to top and he said going rest (at 8300m without oxygen) and did. Norwegian doctor in summit team called by Hungarian member to see him and clearly badly affected by cerebral edema, doctor gave medicine and oxygen (given by Norwegians sleeping at 8300m and they therefore had none) which resulted in temperature improvement but during night died 18/19 May. Wife hours in ABC at this time (she may come to KTM with Norwegian on 23 May).
Accidents All members especially Balog brothers had altitude problems; no other serious problem except Wlasich death
Achievement 1st Hungarian attempt on Everest
Agency None
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452432
Year 1996
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-n face (great couloir) (to 8300m)

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter Bakonyi M 1949 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Writer & editor Details Other expeditions
Geza Balog M 1955 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Gyorgy Balog M 1958 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Geophysicist Details Other expeditions
Agnes Bradacs F 1969 Hungary Climber Gyomro, Hungary Gardener Details Other expeditions
Jozsef Csikos M 1954 Hungary Climber Bukkszentkerent, Hungary Geophysicist Details Other expeditions
Jozsef Desi M 1948 Hungary Climber Felsozsolca, Hungary Elevator mechanic Details Other expeditions
Zsolt Eross M 1968 Hungary Climber Pilisvorosvar, Hungary Building contractor Details Other expeditions
Sandor Gardos M 1963 Hungary Exp Doctor Keszthely, Hungary Physician Details Other expeditions
Akos Koncz M 1964 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Sandor Nagy M 1950 Hungary Leader Budapest, Hungary Teacher Details Other expeditions
Jozsef Straub M 1952 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Auto mechanic Details Other expeditions
Szabolcs Szendro M 1946 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Pensioner (former railrod mechanic) Details Other expeditions
Gero Szekeres M 1943 Hungary Climber Targu Mures, Hungary Architect Details Other expeditions
Laszlo Alfred (Konyi) Varkonyi M 1956 Hungary Climber Budapest, Hungary Professional diver Details Other expeditions
Laszlo Vovos M 1951 Hungary Climber Szentendre, Hungary Medical mechanic Details Other expeditions
Elizabeth Wlasich F - Austria Climber St. Michael, Styria, Austria Housewife Details Other expeditions
Reinhard Wlasich M 1951 Austria Climber St. Michael, Styria, Austria Technician Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.