Everest | 1996 S Col-SE Ridge
A USA expedition to Everest in 1996 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Scott Fischer. Summit reached on 10th May 1996. 17 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1736 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER96113 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1996 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Scott Fischer |
| Sponsor | Mountain Madness Everest Expedition 1996 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 227 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Denmark, Kazakhstan |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1996-04-07 |
| Summit Date | 1996-05-10 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 33 |
| Total Days | 39 |
| Termination Date | 1996-05-16 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 9 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 4 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Boukreev joined UK Lhotse (LHOT-961-01) |
| Campsites | BC(07/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6450m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05) |
| Route Notes | C2 in Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. At midnight of 9th/10th May summit party set out from col for top; they were all summiters and 2 Sherpas who turned back at SE Ridge at about 8500m. Storm brewed up about 5:00 pm with snowfall at 4:00 and from below. Fischer radioed c. 3:15 pm - extremely tired at summit and had same kind of previous medical problem; Lobsong reports that 8300m Fischer very confused sat down and refused to continue, so Lobsang left him at bivouac perch after trying to warm Fischer's face and reached col asking someone to go up to him. Beidleman in group and 11 together at Col unable to find tents. Gau probably shared Fischer's bivouac and next day said he left Scott more dead than alive. Fischer's death not related to clients; Beidleman's job was fixing ropes at front of party and Fischer's to bring up the rear and enforce summit off time. No client has said they saw Fischer after they left Col during his ascent. He obviously left Col later than all from this team and moved slowly. Lobsang said Fischer ripped off oxygen mask, glove, opened dome jacket. Fischer clearly seriously disoriented by cerebral edema. Krakauer of Hall's team 17 May 96: "Beidleman did amazing job saving the lives of his clients" but Sandy Hill Pittman disagrees. Sherpas: Lobsang Jangbu, Beding, atop Everest 3 times, Cho Oyu and Broad Peak once Nawang Dorje, Rolwaling, atop Cho Oyu twice, Everest never before Tenzing, Thami, 28, atop Everest 2 times before, no other 8000m Tashi Tshering, Pangboche, atop Everest 2 times before 10 June 97 - Trekking agent P B Thapa and Dr. Buddha Basnet: Another Nawang Dorje from Rolwaling became very sick from pulmonary edema in C2 on 23 April, was evacuated from Pheriche by helicopter on 26 April to KTM, and died in Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital on 7 June 96. He may have had some underlying illness (e.g., TB) but his death definitely due to his high altitude sickness and having been to C2's altitude. From BC he had been taken to Pheriche aid post where bad weather prevented immediate helicopter evacuation and he stopped breathing in Pheriche's Gamov bag for 5 minutes; in hospital showed some signs of dementia. (This Nawang Dorje had never been to any 8000m summit). |
| Accidents | Fischer died of cerebral edema; Fox and Madsen altitude sickness; Kruse altitude sickness 2nd time in C1 about 6 May and left night after 10th; Nielson frostbitten fingers |
| Achievement | 1st Scandinavian Danish woman to summit |
| Agency | Wilderness Experience |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452435 |
| Year | 1996 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
17 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Martin Adams | M | 1949 | USA | Climber | Houston, Texas | Investor | Details Other expeditions |
| Neal Jay Beidleman | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Aspen, Colorado | Engineer & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Anatoli Boukreev | M | 1958 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Scott Eugene Fischer | M | 1955 | USA | Leader | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Charlotte Conant Fox | F | 1957 | USA | Climber | Aspen, Colorado | Ski patroller & investor | Details Other expeditions |
| Sandra Hill (Sandy) Pittman | F | 1955 | USA | Climber | New York, New York | Writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Karen Ingrid Hunt | F | 1963 | USA | Exp Doctor | Berlin, New Hampshire | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Dale Kruise | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Craig, Colorado | Dentist | Details Other expeditions |
| Timothy Todd (Tim) Madsen | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | Snowmass Village, Colorado & Aspen, Colorado | Ski patroller & builder | Details Other expeditions |
| Lene Gammelgaard Nielsen | F | 1961 | Denmark | Climber | Copenhagen, Denmark | Counselor of drug abusers | Details Other expeditions |
| Klev W. Schoening | M | 1957 | USA | Climber | Houston, Texas | Investor | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Kittlesby (Pete) Schoening | M | 1927 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Building contractor | Details Other expeditions |
| Lobsang Jangbu Sherpa | M | 1971 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Dorje (Da Nawang Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1965 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tenzing (Tenzen, Tenzi) Sherpa | M | 1964 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tashi Tshering Sherpa | M | 1970 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Rolwaling, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
27 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER96113 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | A Season on Everest | - | 71:21-26 (1997) | - |
| EVER96113 | AAJ | Fox, Charlotte | A Time to Live, A Time to Die | - | 71:27-36 (1997) | - |
| EVER96113 | AAJ | Boukreev, Anatoli | The Oxygen Illusion | - | 71:37-43 (1997) | - |
| EVER96113 | AAJ | Wylie, Linda | - | - | 71:303 (1997) | - |
| EVER96113 | - | Krakauer, John | Into Thin Air | Villard, New York | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | Boukreev, Anatoli & DeWalt, G. Weston | The Climb | St. Martin's Press, New York | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | Gammelgaard, Lene | Climbing High | Seal Press, Seattle | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | Gammelgaard, Lene | Everest Vejen Til Toppen | Aschehoug, Copenhagen | - | - |
| EVER96113 | HIGH | - | - | - | 164:9-11 (Jul 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | CLMB | Kennedy, Micheal | By the Book | - | 163:94-104+ (Sep 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | CLMB | Beidleman, Neal | The Last Step | - | 163:105-106 (Sep 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | OTH | Dowling, Claudia Glenn | Death on the Mountain | Life Magazine | 32-46 (Aug 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | MENS | Wilkinson, Peter | The Death Zone | Men's Journal | 36-46 (Aug 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | MENS | Wilkinson, Peter | Everest: The Aftermath | Men's Journal | 40-46 (May 1997) | - |
| EVER96113 | OUTS | Krakauer, Jon | Into Thin Air | Outside Magazine | 46-66+ (Sep 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | OUTS | Bryant, Mark & Krakauer, Jon | Everest: A Year Later | Outside Magazine | 57-62+ (May 1997) | - |
| EVER96113 | OUTS | Child, Greg | Lessons in Futility | Outside Magazine | 64-65+ (May 1997) | - |
| EVER96113 | HIGH | Deegan, Paul | Rescue on Everest | - | 165:86-88 (Aug 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | - | Norgaard, Christian | Verdens Top | Aschehoug Forlag, Copenhagen | - | - |
| EVER96113 | OTH | Pittman, Sandy Hill | Cliff Hanger | Vogue Magazine | 226-231+ (Aug 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | OTH | Conant, Jennet | Snow Blind Ambition | - | 80-84+ (Aug 1996) | - |
| EVER96113 | - | Birkby, Robert | Mountain Madness | Citadel Press, New York, NY | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730302/Asia-Nepal-Nepal-and-Tibet-Himalaya-Various-Ascents | - | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199702100/A-Season-in-Everest-The-Rest-of-the-Story | - | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199702700/A-Time-To-Live-A-Time-To-Die-Tragedy-on-the-Southeast-Ridge-of-Mount-Everest | - | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199703700/The-Oxygen-Illusion-Perspectives-on-the-Business-of-High-Altitude-Climbing | - | - | - |
| EVER96113 | - | Brown, Chip | Sorrow on the Mountain | - | 226-5:56-91 (Nov 2014) | - |