Everest | 1996 N Col-NE Ridge

A India expedition to Everest in 1996 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Mohinder Singh. Summit reached on 10th May 1996. 33 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1766
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96110
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality India
Leaders Mohinder Singh
Sponsor Indian ITBP Mount Everest (North Col) Expedition 1996
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 230 claimed,235
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Mongolia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-05
Summit Date 1996-05-10
Summit Time 1010
Summit Days 35
Total Days 52
Termination Date 1996-05-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 33
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 13
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,5200m),C1(5700m),C2(5800m),C3.ABC(10/04,6400m),C4(19/04,7040m),C5(03/05,7850m),C6(09/05,8320m),Smt(10,17/05)
Route Notes There is doubt that 3 men actually reached summit on May 10. They probably stopped, thinking they were at top, at a bump or ledge at about 8700m and performed religious ceremony here instead. Sherpas with 11 May Japanese summiters noted items that were probably used in ceremony at this point and no footprints above it. Others on Everest at same time also expressed doubts on their return and ITBP's advisor at the time, Mohan S. Kohli, said a few months later he agreed the trio had not probably not summited, but since they had gotten to top and then died, there is no question of their claim's being retracted, Kohli said. The summit party of 10 May was delayed by strong winds, and the 7-man party left their highest camp only at 8:00 am (Indian time, or 8:15 NST). Four in this party turned back at 8500m because of the stormy weather and their exhaustion. ITBP orginally accused Japanese summiters of 11 May of not going to rescue of any Indian summiters who were still alive as mountaineering ethics require; this charge later withdrawn. Others on mountain saw a facing-saving device for Indians over deaths of their men [could also be result of culture conflict in which Japanese don't interfere if not asked to do so?]. Indian summit success of 10th May very much doubted by: Taiwanese Leader Greeks Germans Neal Beidleman of Scott Fischer's team (no one from South Col summiters saw anyone on north side) Peter Kowalzik - see on return notes of 18 May Mohan S. Kohli Charges against Fukuoka Japanese a face-saving device making Japanese as scapegoats? Result of culture conflict in which Japanese don't interfere if not asked to do? 11 May summit - Japanese Sherpas reported found at about 8700m found Lama flags and rock pitons for goods and no footprints above; at about 8700m is point that from North Col looks like summit. Source: Nawang Yanden, ABC sirdar of Fukuoka expedition - 21 May 96 Captain Mohan Kohli - 5 Aug 96 Kohli agrees that the Indian summit team of 10 May 96 probably did not reach top but stopped at ledge/flat area below it; but they reported they had gained summit and they are dead, so there is no question of retracting their summit claim. ITBP Everest: German Everest N Leader Wiegand and Urlass - 5 June 96 Stingl and Joup competing to go to top as first Germans have been told by others who heard Indian radio conversation on that a deputy leader of ITBP told Indian summit team when they were at 2nd Step at 6 pm Chinese time to go on to top - doubtful they reached summit since they stll had quite some distance still to go. Neal Beidleman - 21 May 96 US (Fischer) Everest S summiter on 10 May 96 It would greatly surprise us if any reached summit from North Face on May 10; no one could have summited after 5:00 pm Nepali time in horrendous weather; last summiter from Nepal to leave top was Lobsang Jangbu who left about 4:00 and no one from Nepal reported seeing anyone coming up. [If summit claim is for 6:00 pm Chinese time = 3:45 Nepal time, claim is obviously not correct].
Accidents 3 died on summit attempt
Achievement -
Agency Amtrek
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452435
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

33 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Davinder Singh M 1963 India Climber Amritsar, Punjab, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Om Prakash Bari M 1947 India Radio Operator Bhatawali, Sirmour, HP, India ITBP wireless operator Details Other expeditions
Balraj Begra M 1961 India Exp Doctor Ratanada, Jodhpur, India ITBP physician Details Other expeditions
Daulat Chand M 1951 India Radio Operator Bara Bhuin, Kulu, HP, India ITBP wireless operator Details Other expeditions
Parash Mani Das M 1953 India Deputy Leader Amritsar, Punjab, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Nookoo Jukov M 1960 Mongolia Climber Ulan Bator, Mongolia Mongolian border police personnel Details Other expeditions
Suresh Kumar M 1964 India Climber Pattoli, Kerala, India ITBP photographer Details Other expeditions
Sardari Lal M 1964 India Climber Sathwin, Hamirpur, HP, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Dorje Morup M 1948 India Climber Skurbucham, Leh, Ladakh, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Jyotika Negi F 1965 India Climber Dehradun, UP, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Tashi Ram Negi M 1965 India Climber Charang, Kinnaur, HP, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Sonam Norphal M 1953 India Climber Phobrang, Leh, Ladakh, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Tsewang Paljor M 1968 India Climber Sakti, Leh, Ladakh, J&K, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Sonam Phunchuk M 1951 India Climber Hanley, Leh, Ladakh, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Kanahiya Lal Pokhriyal M 1949 India Climber Sachkhil, Pauri, UP, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Bhagwati Prasad M 1954 India Climber Billaghar, Chamoli, UP, India ITBP medicine Details Other expeditions
Hira Ram Singh M 1963 India Climber Sumyora, Almora, UP, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Poonam Sharma F 1968 India Climber Kuthirra, Una, UP, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Ang Tharkay Sherpa M 1953 India Climber Darjeeling, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Lobsang (Deepak) Sherpa M 1967 India Climber Darjeeling, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Nadre Sherpa M 1968 India Climber Darjeeling, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Sange Muktuk Sherpa M 1965 India Climber Darjeeling, India (born Makalu-Barun) ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Wangchuk Sherpa M 1965 India Climber Darjeeling, India (born Makalu-Barun) ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Harbhajan Singh M 1956 India Deputy Leader Hoshiarpur, Punjab, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Jot Singh Bhandari M 1965 India Climber Malana, Uttarkashi, UP, India ITBP, Head Constable Details Other expeditions
Mangal Singh M 1968 India Climber Jilsau, Chamoli, Uttarakhand, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Mohinder Singh M 1944 India Leader Rajpur Bhayan Village, Punjab, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Prem Singh M 1964 India Climber Kardang, Lahaul & Spiti, HP, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Tsewang Smanla M 1957 India Climber Tia, Leh, Ladakh, J&K, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Rajen Tamang M 1972 India Climber Upper Panong, Kalimpong, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Bhanita Tinungri F 1969 India Climber Narikal, Guwahati, Assam, India ITBP personnel Details Other expeditions
Kusang Dorjee Sherpa M 1962 India Climber Darjeeling, India (born Makalu-Barun) - Details Other expeditions
Kashmir Singh M 1953 India Radio Operator - ITBP, Inspector/Operator Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER96110 HJ Das, P. M. The Indian Ascent of Qomolungma by the North Ridge - 53:67-76 (1997) -
EVER96110 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth A Season on Everest - 71:21-26 (1997) -
EVER96110 HIGH - - - 167:71 (Oct 1996) -
EVER96110 IM Das, P. M. First Indian Ascent of Everest by the NE Ridge 1996 - 32:31-38 (1996) -
EVER96110 IM Kohli, M. S. Dead Climbers Walk - 35:55-60 (1999-2000) -
EVER96110 - Das, Parash Moni Storms and Sunsets in the Himalaya Lotus Publishers, Jalandhar City, India - -
EVER96110 - Singh, Mohinder Everest, The First Indian Ascent from the North Indian Publishers Distributors, Delhi - -
EVER96110 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199702100/A-Season-in-Everest-The-Rest-of-the-Story - - -
EVER96110 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/53/7/the-indian-ascent-of-qomolungma-by-the-north-ridge/ - - -