Everest | 1996 NE Ridge-N Ridge-N Face (up); N Ridge-N Col (down)

A Russia expedition to Everest in 1996 via NE Ridge-N Ridge-N Face (up); N Ridge-N Col (down), led by Sergei Antipine. Summit reached on 20th May 1996. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1754
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96109
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Ridge-N Ridge-N Face (up); N Ridge-N Col (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Sergei Antipine
Sponsor Krasnoyarsk Everest Expedition Spring 1996
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 238
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-05
Summit Date 1996-05-20
Summit Time 1510
Summit Days 45
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1996-05-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 14
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(05/04,5200m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(20/04,7000m),C2(02/05,7400m),C3(17/05,8000m),C4(18/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes C1 below small couloir and rock wall just below C2 beginning of couloir above rock wall C3 in couloir - no fixed tent C4 site of normal route's C4 (or C6 by some counting). Fixed ropes 2000m from bergschrund (6700m) to C3 (8000m). From C4 alpine-style push for summit 18th May by Zakharov, Bakaleinikov, Kohanov, Bekassov, Kouznetsov, Semikolenov at 11:00 am Chinese time and reached top of couloir (65 degree+) at 8200-8300m where Bakaleinikov, Bekassov, Kouznetsov traversed to normal route's C3 while other 4 slept at top in bivouac (C1 and C2 had already been pitched and some supplies left in them). 19th May all six men slept in C4 (normal route C3). 20th May 6 men started for top: Kouznetsov at 8:00 am and other 5 men at 9:00 am; Bekassov turned back 8400m very cold; Kouznetsov on top at 15:10; Kohanov and Semikolenov on top at 17:00; Zakharov and Bakaleinikov reached 8800m at 18:00 hours and thence back because too late and snowing so hard couldn't see way ahead and strong wind (weather like 10th May storm); all 5 back to 8300m at 23:00 hrs and all 6 slept there. Descended normal route and slept at North Col in Hungarian tent. Kouznetsov, Semikolenov and Zakharov and other 3 in ABC. Climb finished since goal of climbing new route had been achieved. Couloir difficult rock with no place for screws at 65-70 degrees and snow 40 not so bad. 9 June 96 - route went up a couloir between North and NE Ridge to North Ridge to North Face. This is same couloir which was attempted in spring 1994 by new Zealand, etc. team led by Russell Brice, but was up left (east) sick of this couloir rather than up its center, where Brice team climbed. Russians then decended via normal route.
Accidents Semikolenov 2 frostbitten toes but will heal; no serious accident or serious illness
Achievement New route
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452445
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge-n ridge-n face (up); n ridge-n col (down)

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Abramovitch Alexandre M 1964 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Sergei Antipine M 1952 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Bakaleinikov M 1956 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Bekassov M 1961 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Igor Iline M 1969 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Valeri Kohanov M 1958 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Biologist Details Other expeditions
Konstantin Kolesnikov M 1964 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Piotr (Petr) Kouznetsov M 1958 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Kozyrenko M 1965 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Driver Details Other expeditions
Alexander Kouznetsov M 1957 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Maiorov M 1959 Russia Exp Doctor Saianogorsk, Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Grigori Semikolenov M 1969 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Smetanin M 1950 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Zakharov M 1953 Russia Climber Krasnoyarsk, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER96109 AAJ Shataev, Vladimir - - 71:344 (1997) -
EVER96109 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth A Season on Everest - 71:21-26 (1997) -
EVER96109 HIGH - - - 167:70 (Oct 1996) -
EVER96109 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199702100/A-Season-in-Everest-The-Rest-of-the-Story - - -
EVER96109 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199734401/Asia-Tibet-Mount-Everest-North-Northeast-Face-New-Route - - -