Everest | 1996 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1996 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by David Breashears. Summit reached on 23rd May 1996. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1742
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96104
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders David Breashears
Sponsor Everest IMAX Filming Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 241
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, India, Japan, Spain, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-03
Summit Date 1996-05-23
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 50
Total Days 55
Termination Date 1996-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 18
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5350m),C1(10/04,5900m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall (just) C2 in West Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. Went to C3 on 7th for summit bid on 9th but when all 6 members woke up at 8 am winds screaming and saw 30 people coming up the face; decided weather not good enough, didn't want to get caught up in crowd, not good for filming in wind shaking pod; just wasn't the time to go up with weather - not true sudden storm on 10th afternoon; each day pattern was fog on Col in late afternoon and fierce winds blew up in mid-morning from 7th. So down to C2 on 8th. Viesturs, Schauer and Breashears up to body of Taiwanese who died on ropes between C2 and C3 at about 3:00 pm on 9th and immediately they went up bring his body down to C2. 11th when realized disaster had struck above and at Col, so these 3 men and Gustafsson and Spanish woman up to C3 and Schauer and Viesturs up higher and met Athans and Burleson coming down with Weathers and took over lowering and escorting Weathers to C3 (Spanish had been making drinks for all people coming down face). Rested at BC and started about 17th and waited at C2 for good weather report and 22nd up to Col by all six climbing members and 9 Sherpas. 23rd Tsuzuki told to stay at col (not strong -for safety) and 5 members and 7 Sherpas was up for summit, 2 Sherpas designate to carry oxygen to 27,500 and return to Col to be in support at Col if needed. Viesturs arrived at top 11:00 am, Breashears 11:20 am and rest between 11:20 and 12:00 noon - returned to C4 to sleep: Viesturs 2:30 pm and rest by 4:00 pm. 24th to C2, 26th BC. Summit Sherpas: 1) Lhakpa Dorje, 30, Kurima, Solu, - Everest 1 time before on north side with Taiwanese in 95 [Taiwanese called him only Lhakpa, said he was 26 and from Thami] 2) Zangbu/Jangbu - Everest 14/5/95 only 8000m 3) Muktu Lhakpa, 23 - Tashigaon in Makalu areas - no 8000m before 4) Thilen, 28 years old Breashears 4th June: Hall and Fischer not dressed really warmly - over confident of routine ascent. Fischer's guide Boukreev climbed without oxygen which guide should not do to be able to look after clients, not just himself - but Boukreev did go out on Col and help find and get to C4 2-3 lost climbers. Viesturs - re bodies: 1) Hall in notch between S Summit and final ridge 2) Fischer 250-300m above South Col on rock ledge of face above Col 3) Harris? no one knows - body not seen despite search by Viesturs and Schauer at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face 4) Hansen? not seen, no one knows - down East Face? no one knows 5) Namba - east side of South Col? no one went looking; Helicopter that evacuated Gau and Weathers; landed twice to lift each from place slightly above most teams C1. Breashears: Gerry Roach added to membership when Ohlund announced at BC he would go no higher - but Roach behaved very oddly and never went above BC himself. Tsuzuki - 23 March (by telephone) National Park did not permit her entry, but went into park without a permit, park authorities believe. This is misunderstanding - in Jan went to scene of Nov 95's avalanche in Gokyo. Tsuzuki plans to fly to SYB with expedition oxygen in a week. [She came to KTM yesterday 22 March]. She returned to BC and reached South Col and her ban on entry into Sagarmatha National's Park for 5 years took effect on 1 June.
Accidents None
Achievement Schauer only to summit Everest 18 years after first ascent on 2nd ascent
Agency Peak Promotion
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452448
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Roger Bilham M 1945 USA Climber Longmont, Colorado Geophysics professor Details Other expeditions
David Finlay Breashears M 1955 USA Leader Newton, Massachusetts Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Elizabeth (Liz) Cohen F 1960 USA Film Team New York, New York Film production manager Details Other expeditions
Stephen (Steve) Judson M 1945 USA Film Team Laguna Beach, California Film writer & editor Details Other expeditions
Jamling Tenzing Norgay M 1965 India Climber Darjeeling, India Trekking agent & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Brad Ohlund M 1946 USA Film Team South Laguna, California Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Gerard A. (Gerry) Roach M 1943 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Businessman Details Other expeditions
Audrey Mary Salkeld F 1936 UK Member Clevedon, Avon, England Mountaineering researcher and historian Details Other expeditions
Hans Robert Schauer M 1953 Austria Climber Graz, Styria, Austria Cameraman & film producer Details Other expeditions
Araceli Segarra Roca F 1970 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Sumiyo Tsuzuki F 1967 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Works for film producer Details Other expeditions
Edmund Karl (Ed) Viesturs M 1959 USA Deputy Leader Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Paula Viesturs F 1967 USA BC Manager Seattle, Washington Pre-school teacher Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Chitre, Sotang, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Nunthala, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Muktu Lhakpa (Muktuk) Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Thilen Sherpa M 1968 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Jangbu Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Changba, Tapting, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER96104 - Coburn, Broughton Everest, Mountain Without Mercy National Geographic Society, Washington, DC - -
EVER96104 - Sherpa, Jamling Tenzing Norgay Touching My Father's Soul Harper Collins, San Francisco - -
EVER96104 - Breashears, David High Exposure Simon & Schuster, New York - -
EVER96104 - - http://outside.away.com/peaks/viesturs/index.html - - -