Everest | 1996 S Pillar-S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1996 via S Pillar-S Col-SE Ridge, led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 22nd May 1996. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1741
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96103
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Pillar-S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Malcolm Duff
Sponsor Ascent Everest Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Denmark, Finland, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-02
Summit Date 1996-05-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 50
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1996-05-26
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8600m due to no more strength
High Point (m) 8600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,5400m),C1(06/04,5950m),C2(10/04,6450m),C3(28/04,7600m),C4(04/05,8100m),xxx(22/05,8600m)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on rock at night edge of Pillar C4 at 100m from South Col-SE Ridge route (very well protected) High point at below South Summit. Lot of stone fell off SW Face so followed normal route to below Geneva Spur (further in that direction than original Polish route) and then at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face and thence to and up Pillar. After C4 made, down to BC and some to Pheriche for rest. Went to C2 on 7th May. Gustafsson, Christensen, Duff, Duncan and Sherpas on 8th from C2 to C3 and on 9th from C3 to C4 but "we didn't like the look of the weather and came down again" to C2 (high sinuous clouds, gusty winds, and it didn't feel good" to these experienced climbers). Hansen on 10th established medical unit at C2 while Gustafsson, Viesturs and Brunshems same day to C3, and Duff and Duncan to C3 next day for possible rescue and did escort down people descending later on 11th May. Down to BC to recuperate. Duff, Duncan, Christensen, Gustafsson, Mathorne and 3 Sherpas from C2 on 21st to C3 and Gustafsson, Christensen to C4 and 22nd they and 2 Sherpas left C4 for summit. Christensen to 8400m and Gustafsson to 8600m but not using oxygen and got very cold. Sherpas using oxygen went 8600m and turned back with Gustafsson and climb finished: no more strength (Dorje and Dawa went to 8600m); had already decided this attempt would end climb.
Accidents Fullen serious attack about 25th April near top of the icefall; Sejberg broken ribs
Achievement -
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452447
Year 1996
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s pillar-s col-se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bo Belvedere Christensen M 1956 Denmark Climber Holte, Denmark Satellite communications consultant Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Mal) Duff M 1953 UK Leader Culross, Fife, Scotland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Euan Duncan M 1962 UK Climber Rhosneigr, Gwynedd, Wales Royal Air Force engineer (Flight Lieutenant) Details Other expeditions
Eamon (Ginge) Fullen M 1967 UK Climber Wakefield, W Yorkshire, England Royal Navy clearance diver Details Other expeditions
Shawn Alexander Gentry M 1963 USA Climber Todd, North Carolina Building contractor Details Other expeditions
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson M 1968 Finland Climber Espoo, Helsinki, Finland Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Henrik Jessen Hansen M 1960 Denmark Exp Doctor Vanlose, Denmark Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Jaakko Kurvinen M 1964 Finland Climber Helsinki, Finland Marketing manager Details Other expeditions
Jan Mathorne M 1961 Denmark Climber Farum, Denmark Engineer Details Other expeditions
Kim Sejberg M 1963 Denmark Climber Copenhagen, Denmark Financial advisor Details Other expeditions
Michael J. (Mike) Trueman M 1952 UK Climber Hong Kong Shipping manager Details Other expeditions
Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER96103 - Trueman, Mike The Storms Baton Wicks, Sheffield, England - -