Everest | 1996 S Pillar-S Col-SE Ridge
A UK expedition to Everest in 1996 via S Pillar-S Col-SE Ridge, led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 22nd May 1996. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1741 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER96103 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1996 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Pillar-S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Malcolm Duff |
| Sponsor | Ascent Everest Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Denmark, Finland, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1996-04-02 |
| Summit Date | 1996-05-22 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 50 |
| Total Days | 54 |
| Termination Date | 1996-05-26 |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8600m due to no more strength |
| High Point (m) | 8600 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(02/04,5400m),C1(06/04,5950m),C2(10/04,6450m),C3(28/04,7600m),C4(04/05,8100m),xxx(22/05,8600m) |
| Route Notes | C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on rock at night edge of Pillar C4 at 100m from South Col-SE Ridge route (very well protected) High point at below South Summit. Lot of stone fell off SW Face so followed normal route to below Geneva Spur (further in that direction than original Polish route) and then at bergschrund at bottom of Lhotse Face and thence to and up Pillar. After C4 made, down to BC and some to Pheriche for rest. Went to C2 on 7th May. Gustafsson, Christensen, Duff, Duncan and Sherpas on 8th from C2 to C3 and on 9th from C3 to C4 but "we didn't like the look of the weather and came down again" to C2 (high sinuous clouds, gusty winds, and it didn't feel good" to these experienced climbers). Hansen on 10th established medical unit at C2 while Gustafsson, Viesturs and Brunshems same day to C3, and Duff and Duncan to C3 next day for possible rescue and did escort down people descending later on 11th May. Down to BC to recuperate. Duff, Duncan, Christensen, Gustafsson, Mathorne and 3 Sherpas from C2 on 21st to C3 and Gustafsson, Christensen to C4 and 22nd they and 2 Sherpas left C4 for summit. Christensen to 8400m and Gustafsson to 8600m but not using oxygen and got very cold. Sherpas using oxygen went 8600m and turned back with Gustafsson and climb finished: no more strength (Dorje and Dawa went to 8600m); had already decided this attempt would end climb. |
| Accidents | Fullen serious attack about 25th April near top of the icefall; Sejberg broken ribs |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Arun Treks |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452447 |
| Year | 1996 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s pillar-s col-se ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bo Belvedere Christensen | M | 1956 | Denmark | Climber | Holte, Denmark | Satellite communications consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Malcolm (Mal) Duff | M | 1953 | UK | Leader | Culross, Fife, Scotland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Euan Duncan | M | 1962 | UK | Climber | Rhosneigr, Gwynedd, Wales | Royal Air Force engineer (Flight Lieutenant) | Details Other expeditions |
| Eamon (Ginge) Fullen | M | 1967 | UK | Climber | Wakefield, W Yorkshire, England | Royal Navy clearance diver | Details Other expeditions |
| Shawn Alexander Gentry | M | 1963 | USA | Climber | Todd, North Carolina | Building contractor | Details Other expeditions |
| Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson | M | 1968 | Finland | Climber | Espoo, Helsinki, Finland | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Henrik Jessen Hansen | M | 1960 | Denmark | Exp Doctor | Vanlose, Denmark | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaakko Kurvinen | M | 1964 | Finland | Climber | Helsinki, Finland | Marketing manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Mathorne | M | 1961 | Denmark | Climber | Farum, Denmark | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kim Sejberg | M | 1963 | Denmark | Climber | Copenhagen, Denmark | Financial advisor | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael J. (Mike) Trueman | M | 1952 | UK | Climber | Hong Kong | Shipping manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa | M | 1965 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER96103 | - | Trueman, Mike | The Storms | Baton Wicks, Sheffield, England | - | - |