Everest | 1996 S Col-SE Ridge

A Taiwan expedition to Everest in 1996 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Gau Ming-Ho (Makalu). Summit reached on 10th May 1996. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1737
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER96101
Peak ID EVER
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Taiwan
Leaders Gau Ming-Ho (Makalu)
Sponsor 1996 Chinese Taipei Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 229
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-01
Summit Date 1996-05-10
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 39
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1996-05-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/04),C1(06/04,5800m),C2(10/04,6300m),C3(16/04,7200m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(10/05)
Route Notes C4 at South Col. 2 May Chen and Gau to C4 together but not feeling well on 9th May, 2 Sherpas stayed with him while Gau and 2 Sherpas go to Col. Planned 2-4 May summit bid. Both members used oxygen in C3 sleeping. Gau went ahead on 9th and learned from Col on radio Chen had fallen and died (body to KTM on 19th May). Gau left 12:30 am and on top 3:00 pm (after Hall and Pittman and before Fischer). Down to 8300m and bivouacked there with oxygen almost finished and alone while Sherpas went down 7:30 pm leaving Gau (they were experienced and quick and Gau could not follow them). Gau reached South Col afternoon with help of one his Sherpas who came up to him, and helped him to Col; had tried to descend alone in morning but too dizzy to move alone. Gau's right eye had a particle inside: now bloodshot but can see now, hands and feet frozen and will lose parts. "Okay now only tired" want to climb again? "Sure why not?" "What?" "I don't know." Lost 4-5 Kg on climb. May go to Anchorage hospital that specializes in frostbite. Leaves KTM 15 May. 16 May was in good spirits. Dr. David Shlim - 13 May 96 Nose frostbitten, "devastating injuries." Thinks he spent 2 nights out. 2 Sherpas left him in descent; passed Fischer, rushing up, above Hillary Step, as Gau went downwards. 10 fingers to knuckles and toes and soles of feet very bad, may be badly crippled. Others of his expedition leave 19th. Leaves Wed? (Raju at Hotel Thamel) to go up for telephone.
Accidents Gau badly frostbitten during bivouac at 8300m; Chen fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency Peak Promotion
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452435
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yu-Nan Chen M 1959 Taiwan Climber Taipei, Taiwan Steelworker Details Other expeditions
Jung-Chuang Cheng M 1948 Taiwan Climber Taipei, Taiwan Farm worker Details Other expeditions
Ming-Ho (Makalu) Gau M 1949 Taiwan Leader Taipei, Taiwan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Tsu-Sheng Hsieh M 1972 Taiwan Climber Taipei, Taiwan Pizza-house worker Details Other expeditions
Tien-Tzu Kao M 1969 Taiwan Climber Taipei, Taiwan Taxi driver Details Other expeditions
Nima Gombu (Gombu) Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering/Tsiri Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER96101 - Gau, Ming-Ho Back From the Edge Taiwan - -
EVER96101 HIGH - - - 164:9-11 (Jul 1996) -
EVER96101 - Krakauer, Jon Into Thin Air Villard, New York - -