Everest | 1995 N Col-NE Ridge
A UK expedition to Everest in 1995 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 12th May 1995. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1465 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER95113 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1995 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Henry Todd |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Guides Everest Tibet 1995 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 203,211,218,220 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Brazil, Denmark, France, Ireland, Kazakhstan, Poland, Russia |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1995-04-15 |
| Summit Date | 1995-05-12 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 27 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 8 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(15/04),ABC(19/04,6450m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7800m),C2(08/05,7600m),C3(11/05,8200m),Smt(12,14,17,23/05) |
| Route Notes | C1 at North Col. A later C2 pitched at 7600m on 8/9th May because long way from N Col to 7800m, but this 7800m camp kept and called C2 1/2. 17th May from C3 2 am (Boukreev without oxygen), Ratcliffe and Sitnikov, reached top at 8:30 am (Ratcliff) Sitnikov at 12 noon and Boukreev at 9:30 am and waited at and near summit 2-1/2 hrs for team's client Sitnikov at 12 (no frostbite); somewhat windy; Ratcliffe to 7800m at 1 pm; Russians to C3 at 3 pm. 23 May Jones and Jorgensen left C3 at 4 am, on top 1 pm together and back to C3 6 pm. Had been very windy on 21st and 22nd, so waited 2 days for improved weather: less wind and rather warm. Chappaz tried for top from C3 on 21 May without oxygen; left C3 1:30 am, lost fixed rope, headlamp malfunctioned, waited for dawn and returned to C3, down farther on 22nd. No other attempts. Oxygen: Chappaz and Boukreev none at all; others: some at 7600m and above, others at 7800m or even 8200m and above. Jinx against commercial team's clients summiting broken by the lovely weather from 11th May and decision to go for it quickly. Had hoped for stable weather at full moon time (moon was full on 14th), and people and supplies were ready. When Japanese and even Taiwanese suceeded on 11th, everyone determined they could too. Pawlowski, who paid to be a member of this expedition, was 1st client to top. Charles Hsieh of Pfau's expedition joined Todd's team as an independent climber (not formal member). |
| Accidents | Nothing except Todd's back out again |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452070 |
| Year | 1995 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anatoli Boukreev | M | 1958 | Kazakhstan | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Mozart Catao | M | 1962 | Brazil | Climber | Terespolis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Nicolas Chappaz | M | 1960 | France | Climber | Bordeaux, Gironde, France | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Robert Deegan | M | 1970 | UK | Climber | Cheam, Surrey, England | Marketing manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Knakkergaard-Jorgensen | M | 1967 | Denmark | Climber | Copenhagen, Denmark | Ski instructor & occasional army UN peacekeeper | Details Other expeditions |
| Caradoc (Crag) Jones | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | London, England | Fisheries management consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Waldemar Niclevicz | M | 1966 | Brazil | Climber | Curitiba, Brazil | Travel agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryszard Jan Pawlowski | M | 1950 | Poland | Climber | Katowice, Poland | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Graham Gordon Ratcliffe | M | 1955 | UK | Climber | Whiteley Bay, Tyne & Wear, England | Property developer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikolai Sitnikov | M | 1947 | Russia | Climber | Hewvral, Urlas, Russia | Electro-chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sean Smith | M | 1961 | Ireland/UK | Climber | London, England | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Henry Barclay Todd | M | 1945 | UK | Leader | Edinburgh, Scotland | Director of mountain guiding company | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER95113 | AAJ | Boukreev, Anatoli | The Roads We Choose | - | 70:29-38 (1996) | - |
| EVER95113 | - | Niclevicz, Waldemar | Everest, O Diario del Uma Victoria | Sagarmatha Producoes, Curitiba, Brazil | - | - |
| EVER95113 | - | Niclevicz, Waldemar | Everest Sagarmatha Chomolungma | Sagarmatha Producoes, Curitiba, Brazil | - | - |
| EVER95113 | HIGH | - | - | - | 155:14 (Oct 1995) | - |
| EVER95113 | - | Norgaard, Christian | Verdens Top | Aschehoug Forlag, Copenhagen | - | - |
| EVER95113 | - | - | http://www.niclevicz.com.br | - | - | - |
| EVER95113 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199602900/The-Roads-We-Choose-A-Himalayan-Season | - | - | - |