Everest | 1995 N Col-NE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1995 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 12th May 1995. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1465
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER95113
Peak ID EVER
Year 1995
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Himalayan Guides Everest Tibet 1995
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 203,211,218,220
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Brazil, Denmark, France, Ireland, Kazakhstan, Poland, Russia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-04-15
Summit Date 1995-05-12
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 27
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/04),ABC(19/04,6450m),C1(22/04,7000m),C2(01/05,7800m),C2(08/05,7600m),C3(11/05,8200m),Smt(12,14,17,23/05)
Route Notes C1 at North Col. A later C2 pitched at 7600m on 8/9th May because long way from N Col to 7800m, but this 7800m camp kept and called C2 1/2. 17th May from C3 2 am (Boukreev without oxygen), Ratcliffe and Sitnikov, reached top at 8:30 am (Ratcliff) Sitnikov at 12 noon and Boukreev at 9:30 am and waited at and near summit 2-1/2 hrs for team's client Sitnikov at 12 (no frostbite); somewhat windy; Ratcliffe to 7800m at 1 pm; Russians to C3 at 3 pm. 23 May Jones and Jorgensen left C3 at 4 am, on top 1 pm together and back to C3 6 pm. Had been very windy on 21st and 22nd, so waited 2 days for improved weather: less wind and rather warm. Chappaz tried for top from C3 on 21 May without oxygen; left C3 1:30 am, lost fixed rope, headlamp malfunctioned, waited for dawn and returned to C3, down farther on 22nd. No other attempts. Oxygen: Chappaz and Boukreev none at all; others: some at 7600m and above, others at 7800m or even 8200m and above. Jinx against commercial team's clients summiting broken by the lovely weather from 11th May and decision to go for it quickly. Had hoped for stable weather at full moon time (moon was full on 14th), and people and supplies were ready. When Japanese and even Taiwanese suceeded on 11th, everyone determined they could too. Pawlowski, who paid to be a member of this expedition, was 1st client to top. Charles Hsieh of Pfau's expedition joined Todd's team as an independent climber (not formal member).
Accidents Nothing except Todd's back out again
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452070
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Mozart Catao M 1962 Brazil Climber Terespolis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Businessman Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Chappaz M 1960 France Climber Bordeaux, Gironde, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Paul Robert Deegan M 1970 UK Climber Cheam, Surrey, England Marketing manager Details Other expeditions
Michael Knakkergaard-Jorgensen M 1967 Denmark Climber Copenhagen, Denmark Ski instructor & occasional army UN peacekeeper Details Other expeditions
Caradoc (Crag) Jones M 1958 UK Climber London, England Fisheries management consultant Details Other expeditions
Waldemar Niclevicz M 1966 Brazil Climber Curitiba, Brazil Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Jan Pawlowski M 1950 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Graham Gordon Ratcliffe M 1955 UK Climber Whiteley Bay, Tyne & Wear, England Property developer Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Sitnikov M 1947 Russia Climber Hewvral, Urlas, Russia Electro-chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Sean Smith M 1961 Ireland/UK Climber London, England Photographer Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Edinburgh, Scotland Director of mountain guiding company Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER95113 AAJ Boukreev, Anatoli The Roads We Choose - 70:29-38 (1996) -
EVER95113 - Niclevicz, Waldemar Everest, O Diario del Uma Victoria Sagarmatha Producoes, Curitiba, Brazil - -
EVER95113 - Niclevicz, Waldemar Everest Sagarmatha Chomolungma Sagarmatha Producoes, Curitiba, Brazil - -
EVER95113 HIGH - - - 155:14 (Oct 1995) -
EVER95113 - Norgaard, Christian Verdens Top Aschehoug Forlag, Copenhagen - -
EVER95113 - - http://www.niclevicz.com.br - - -
EVER95113 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199602900/The-Roads-We-Choose-A-Himalayan-Season - - -