Everest | 1995 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1995 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Todd Burleson. Summit reached on 12th May 1995. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1454
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER95109
Peak ID EVER
Year 1995
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Todd Burleson
Sponsor 1995 American Everest Exped & 1995 American Lhotse Exped
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries S Africa
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-04-10
Summit Date 1995-05-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8500m due to deep snow
High Point (m) 8500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1600
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Lhotse (LHOT-951-02)
Campsites BC(10/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6500m),C3(25/04,7200m),C4(11/05,7900m),xxx(12/05,8500m)
Route Notes C2 in Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col High point at below South Summit. Summit bid on 12th May by Athans, Williams, Hanna, Pond, Kammler, Leonard, Fischbeck, Hoffman, Berg, Gyalzen, Tenzing, Gopal Tamang, Kami Rita, Dorje and Nima Tashi. Left C4 at midnight, all together to 8500m when snow became very deep (Hall's rope of few days early under 3 feet of snow) so progress too slow, so turned back at 10:40 am: very apparent not going to summit and safety was imperative. Returned to C4 3:00-5:00 pm. Last summit bid because this was entire team (except for Burleson, who was busy with Sherpa's death) and no strength left. Sherpa who died at age 22, very strong C2 assistant & climbing Sherpa to carry loads to C2 when clients not in C2. Was descending from C3 carry when fell: went very fast & not clipped in. Died immediately from "severe head trauma" - fell at 7100m to base of face. Berg fell 14th May into last crevasse descending icefall - unconscious for 20 mins. Hall Sherpas helped rescue. Williams down 50 ft into crevasse & got him out with head injuries & broken left wrist - helicoptered from BC. Oxygen Used: by all or most members (no Sherpas) sleeping at C3 by all or most members (no Sherpas) sleeping to C4 Berg after his fall for at least 24 hrs. Mohan Singh, Asian Trekking - 11 June 95 Bribe demands from HMG official: Indul KC, Under Secy in Tourism in charge of mountaineering, claimed he had "done everything" to get Burleson's permit for Everest this spring and therefore he demanded $5000-$10,000 in cash, camera, video camera and mountaineering equipment. Demands made after Burleson had left for Khumbu - made to Burleson in Khumbu when Indul went to Namche for meeting of Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and Burleson was returning to KTM from climb. Burleson gave Indul nothing in Khumbu. In KTM Indul pressed the matter, met Burleson in Mustang Hotel, was given a payment (not more than Rs 30,000) and was taken into custody by Special Police.
Accidents Berg's fall & Sherpa's death only
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452070
Year 1995
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter George (Pete) Athans M 1957 USA Deputy Leader Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide & English teacher Details Other expeditions
Wallace Wayne (Wally) Berg M 1955 USA Climber/Guide Copper Mountain, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Randy Todd Burleson M 1960 USA Leader Woodinville, Washington Alpine guide & outdoor adventure business owner Details Other expeditions
Albert C. (Al) Hanna M 1930 USA Climber Chicago, Illinois Real estate businessman Details Other expeditions
Todd Hoffman M 1954 USA Climber Miami, Florida Businessman Details Other expeditions
Kenneth Mark (Ken) Kamler M 1947 USA Exp Doctor New Hyde Park, New York Physician Details Other expeditions
Lily Richardson Leonard F 1956 USA Climber Hong Kong Administrator Details Other expeditions
William (Bill) Pond M 1953 USA Climber Fort Wayne, Indiana Anesthesiologist Details Other expeditions
James Malone (Jim) Williams M 1954 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Frank Brian Dieter Fischbeck M 1939 S Africa Climber Hong Kong Photographer Details Other expeditions
Kami Rita Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Aryne (Kay) Barber F 1969 USA BC Manager Woodinville, Washington Flight attendent Details Other expeditions
Man Bahadur (Gopal) Tamang M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Jaidu, Salleri, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gyalzen (Ang Gyalzen) Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Phurte, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kami Rita (Topke) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Tashi Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER95109 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:258 (1996) -
EVER95109 HIGH - - - 155:14-15 (Oct 1995) -
EVER95109 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199625802/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Pre-monsoon - - -