Everest | 1995 N Col-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1995 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Paul Pfau. Summit reached on 14th May 1995. 25 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1456
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER95104
Peak ID EVER
Year 1995
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Paul Pfau
Sponsor American Mount Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 209,215
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-03-24
Summit Date 1995-05-14
Summit Time 0530
Summit Days 51
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 457
Total Members 20
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/03),ABC(09/04),C4(18/04,7000m),C5(27/04,7800m),C6(04/05,8300m),Smt(14,16/05)
Route Notes C4 at North Col C5 on North Ridge C6 on snowfield below 1st step on North Face. Yaks were dumping gear and there was snowfall after BC arrival. 14th summit by 4 members, Kaji, Chhiring and Wangchu. Left C6 at 1:00 am and on top 5:30 am by Mallory, Chhiring, Kaji and Hall 6 am; Litch at 9 am; Aguilar at 9:30 am; Wangchu at 9:15 am and returned to C6 by 9:20 am to 5:30 pm. 16th summit party 4 members, Jangbu, Phinzo and Karma (Karma back at First Step with stomach trouble); on top Phinzo, Lynch 8 am, Budnick 10 am, Jangbu twice (2nd time from 200 ft below top to help a member) at 10:30 am, Reneker and Jangbu at 11:45 am, Wedberg 12:15 pm; back to C6 1:30 pm to 5 pm. Total climb was fixed from bottom of N Col by various teams at various times (Mallory climbed from highest camp to summit in 4 hrs 35 mins, where as most people this season took 6 hrs, says Brice team member. Hsieh left team 13 May because Pfau told him he couldn't go higher than N Col as other members didn't have confidence in his judgement and did not want to make summit bid with him. He went to Henry Todd's team to climb with them (Todd said 2 June his group felt sorry for Hsieh and agreed he could climb with them independently but he did not summit). Mallory convinced his grandfather reached summit. If Odell correct that he saw George Leigh Mallory at Second Step, it would not have impossible technically for G.L.M. to get to summit even without the ladder everyone uses nowadays. G.L.M. was skilled rock climber; above Second Step no great obstacle and G.L.M. was highly motivated. This expedition had a 13th climbing member, David Tollakson of Studio City, Calif, was Reneker's good friend. He died on practice climb with Renekar in US on 9 April 1994 and Renekar carried his ashes to Everest summit. Tollakson had summited highest points on other six continents. Sherpa Summiters: Kaji (Loding), 32 - speed climber - this his 3rd ascent Chhiring = Ongda Chhiring (Dingjung, Makalu area), 25 - 3rd ascent Wangchu (Changba Village, Tapting VDC, Solu), 29 - 1st ascent Jangbu (Changba Village, Tapting VDC, Solu), 23 - 1st ascent Phinzo (Rolwaling), 26 - 3rd ascent (previous ones: US via S Col in 1990 Oct and US via S Col 1993 Spring)
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Peak Promotion
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452072
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

25 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Raymond Purdy M 1954 USA Exp Doctor Madison, Wisconsin Physician Details Other expeditions
Dan Aguilar M 1949 USA Leader Vail, Colorado Telephone technician Details Other expeditions
Julius Budnick M 1957 USA Climber Manitou Springs, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Robert G. Clark M 1950 USA Climber Calpella, California Building contractor Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) Gordon M 1939 USA Climber Kettle Falls, Washington Teacher in high school for special students Details Other expeditions
Emily Gordon F 1942 USA Member Kettle Falls, Washington Librarian Details Other expeditions
John Gowans M 1943 USA Member Van Nuys, California Actor (mostly in TV films) Details Other expeditions
Jeffrey S. Hall M 1955 USA Climber Snowmass Village, Colorado Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Cecil (Curt) Hewitt M 1951 USA Climber Milaca, Minnesota Nurse Details Other expeditions
Charles Hesieh M 1965 USA Climber Portland, Oregon Nurse & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
James Anthony (Jim) Litch M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions
Brian Lyle M 1968 USA Climber Vail, Colorado Emergency medical technician Details Other expeditions
Colin E. Lynch M 1954 USA Co-Deputy Leader San Francisco, California Real estate and property manager Details Other expeditions
George Mallory M 1959 Australia Climber Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Paul Raymond Pfau M 1949 USA Leader Shadow Hills, California Attorney Details Other expeditions
Steven P. (Steve) Reneker M 1960 USA Climber Riverside, California Director of information systems Details Other expeditions
Jonathan M. Rosen M 1953 USA Climber Albany, New York Physician Details Other expeditions
Jennifer Heizzig Wedberg F 1971 USA BC Support Bishop, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kurt Alan Wedberg M 1966 USA Climber Bishop, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Laura Ziemer F 1964 USA BC Support Seattle, Washington Environmentalist & attorney Details Other expeditions
Kaji (Pasang Kaji, Pasang Kami) Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Loding Tamakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ongda Chhiring/Tshering Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Wangchu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Changba, Tapting, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Jangbu Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Changba, Tapting, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phinzo Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER95104 AAJ Pfau, Paul - - 70:314 (1996) -
EVER95104 HIGH - - - 155:14 (Oct 1995) -
EVER95104 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199631401/Asia-Tibet-Mount-Everest-Ascent-by-George-Mallory - - -