Everest | 1994 S Col-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1994 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Takashi Miyahara. Summit reached on 10th October 1994. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1466
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER94312
Peak ID EVER
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takashi Miyahara
Sponsor Miyahara-Nukita Expedition to Everest
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 198
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-08-27
Summit Date 1994-10-10
Summit Time 1155
Summit Days 44
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/08),C1(15/09,6000m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(02/10,7200m),C4(06/10,7900m),Smt(10/10)
Route Notes Thamserkhu Trekking said would make route through icefall by 1 Sept but started to make it on 1st. This delay bothersome because Japanese wanted summit in Sept. Delayed C4 by winds which started 1 Oct. Spent 5 nights at C4. 9th Oct could have summited but 1 Sherpa not well & went down & 2 others came up from C2. Japanese left C4 10:30 pm 9th Oct (2 Japanese & 6 Sherpas left Col for summit) & had to wait 30 mins on SE Ridge for 2 Sherpas who left C4 at 11 am. 6:30 am at col beyond S Summit Miyahara said could not see from his right eye (it's pupil white) & route condition bad, brittle ice, easy to break on surface. Miyahara decided to go down & 3 Sherpas went with him while Nukita continued up with 3 other Sherpas. At one point Sherpas didn't want to go to top but Apa changed his mind & went up after all despite strong wind & on top 11:55 am. Nukita & Miyahara left C4 together on 11th. Miyahara eyesight better on return to C4 & all night in BC. Miyahara - 20 Oct 94: Max altitude reached 8793m=South Summit; right eye started failing at about 8500m & blind by S Summit; cause unknown, perhaps first time this has happened to a mountaineer; at C4 on descent better; at C2 normal. Oxygen used: Miyahara: in C2 & climbing up from 7000m, sleeping in higher camps & descending to C2. Nukita: sleeping in C3 & C4, climbing above & back to C3. Sherpas: 2 in C3 & all in C4 & above it (waiting 2 nights) Sherpas: Apa, 37, Thami, Everest summit 5X before this one Chuwang Nima, 22, Thami, Everest once before Dawa Tshering, 28, Thami, this his 1st 8000er
Accidents Chuwang Nima Sherpa frostbite slight on 1 toe; Miyahara's temporary blindness in one eye
Achievement -
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451855
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takashi Miyahara M 1934 Japan Leader Kathmandu Hotelier & travel agent Details Other expeditions
Muneo Nukita M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Apa (Appa) Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Thami Og, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhuwang Nima Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Tesho, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tshering (Dawa Chhiri) Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER94312 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:238 (1995) -
EVER94312 HIGH - - - 151:14 (Jun 1995) -
EVER94312 IWA - - - :239 (1995) -
EVER94312 IWA - - - :65 (1995) -
EVER94312 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523801/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Post-Monsoon-Season - - -