Everest | 1994 N Col-NE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1994 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Nick Banks. Summit reached on 23rd July 1994. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1478
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER94201
Peak ID EVER
Year 1994
Season 2
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Nick Banks
Sponsor Himalayan Kingdoms Everest Expedition 1994
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Denmark, New Zealand
Approach KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC
Basecamp Date 1994-06-12
Summit Date 1994-07-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8200m due to snow conditions & clients lack of strength
High Point (m) 8200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/06),ABC(17/06,6200m),C1(29/06,7000m),C2(03/07,7500m),C2(06/07,7500m),xxx(23/07,8200m)
Route Notes BC at road C1 at North Col C2 on North Face to right of ridge. Weather perfect all through time (no snow fall, no wind including no snow from top, no afternoon clouds, "just clean blue skies") but July had typical monsoon weather. C2 moved 300m up because its site too exposed to avalanching that could come at any time. Snowing every afternoon & trail at 8100-8200m but couldn't find safe-protected site for it [C3] on 23 July. "Just too risky" to put on open face. Another problem was that client Bager was very tired & could not have gone to top next day. No other members at all strong enough for very high altitude. Totally unrealistic for any of these clients to be on Everest except Bager, who could have made summit via S Col route. Bager only competent climber amongst clients. Banks on 29 July in bed in North Wales - still had no feeling on right side and will take time for destroyed nerve endings to grow back. He came to KTM on 19th, flew to UK on 22nd and spent 4 days in hospital. Peter came to KTM 28 July with baggage and Sherpas. Other members fly from Lhasa to KTM 2 Aug.
Accidents Banks developed every serious hemoglobin problem in which blood not supplying capillaries: lost feeling on right side and veins swelled; Buckton altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451776
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Per Michael Bager M 1964 Denmark Climber Copenhagen, Denmark Building engineer Details Other expeditions
Nicholas Victor Aloysius (Nick) Banks M 1951 New Zealand Leader Betwys-y-Coed, Gwynedd, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Trevor Barnes M 1954 UK Climber Wimbledon, London, England Professor Details Other expeditions
Rosalind J. (Ros) Buckton F 1947 UK Climber Girne, Mersin, Turkey University professor of American literature Details Other expeditions
Michael Firth M 1947 UK Climber Bebington, England Professor Details Other expeditions
Brian Mooney M 1949 UK Climber Cossenshall, Essex, England News & television manager for Reuters Details Other expeditions
Iain Miller Glover Peter M 1959 UK Deputy Leader Penmacwnd, Gwynedd, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philip Segal M 1947 Australia Climber Grafton, NSW, Australia Solicitor Details Other expeditions
Nga Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER94201 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:304 (1995) -
EVER94201 HIGH - - - 151:13-14 (Jun 1995) -
EVER94201 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530401/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Summer-Attempt - - -