Everest | 1994 N Col-NE Ridge
A UK expedition to Everest in 1994 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Nick Banks. Summit reached on 23rd July 1994. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1478 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER94201 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1994 |
| Season | 2 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Nick Banks |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Kingdoms Everest Expedition 1994 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, Denmark, New Zealand |
| Approach | KTM->Tingri->Rongbuk BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1994-06-12 |
| Summit Date | 1994-07-23 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 41 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8200m due to snow conditions & clients lack of strength |
| High Point (m) | 8200 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1000 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(12/06),ABC(17/06,6200m),C1(29/06,7000m),C2(03/07,7500m),C2(06/07,7500m),xxx(23/07,8200m) |
| Route Notes | BC at road C1 at North Col C2 on North Face to right of ridge. Weather perfect all through time (no snow fall, no wind including no snow from top, no afternoon clouds, "just clean blue skies") but July had typical monsoon weather. C2 moved 300m up because its site too exposed to avalanching that could come at any time. Snowing every afternoon & trail at 8100-8200m but couldn't find safe-protected site for it [C3] on 23 July. "Just too risky" to put on open face. Another problem was that client Bager was very tired & could not have gone to top next day. No other members at all strong enough for very high altitude. Totally unrealistic for any of these clients to be on Everest except Bager, who could have made summit via S Col route. Bager only competent climber amongst clients. Banks on 29 July in bed in North Wales - still had no feeling on right side and will take time for destroyed nerve endings to grow back. He came to KTM on 19th, flew to UK on 22nd and spent 4 days in hospital. Peter came to KTM 28 July with baggage and Sherpas. Other members fly from Lhasa to KTM 2 Aug. |
| Accidents | Banks developed every serious hemoglobin problem in which blood not supplying capillaries: lost feeling on right side and veins swelled; Buckton altitude sickness |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451776 |
| Year | 1994 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Per Michael Bager | M | 1964 | Denmark | Climber | Copenhagen, Denmark | Building engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nicholas Victor Aloysius (Nick) Banks | M | 1951 | New Zealand | Leader | Betwys-y-Coed, Gwynedd, Wales | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Trevor Barnes | M | 1954 | UK | Climber | Wimbledon, London, England | Professor | Details Other expeditions |
| Rosalind J. (Ros) Buckton | F | 1947 | UK | Climber | Girne, Mersin, Turkey | University professor of American literature | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Firth | M | 1947 | UK | Climber | Bebington, England | Professor | Details Other expeditions |
| Brian Mooney | M | 1949 | UK | Climber | Cossenshall, Essex, England | News & television manager for Reuters | Details Other expeditions |
| Iain Miller Glover Peter | M | 1959 | UK | Deputy Leader | Penmacwnd, Gwynedd, Wales | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Philip Segal | M | 1947 | Australia | Climber | Grafton, NSW, Australia | Solicitor | Details Other expeditions |
| Nga Temba Sherpa | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tshering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER94201 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 69:304 (1995) | - |
| EVER94201 | HIGH | - | - | - | 151:13-14 (Jun 1995) | - |
| EVER94201 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530401/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Summer-Attempt | - | - | - |