Everest | 1994 Couloir on E side of N Ridge (to 8000m)
A New Zealand expedition to Everest in 1994 via Couloir on E side of N Ridge (to 8000m), led by Russell Brice. Summit reached on 28th May 1994. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1484 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER94113 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1994 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | Couloir on E side of N Ridge (to 8000m) |
| Route 2 | N Col-NE Ridge (to 7800m) |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | New Zealand |
| Leaders | Russell Brice |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Experience 8000 to Everest |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Canada, France, Guatemala, Romania, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1994-04-11 |
| Summit Date | 1994-05-28 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 47 |
| Total Days | 52 |
| Termination Date | 1994-06-02 |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8300m due to effort & strength expended, leaving no support for summit party |
| High Point (m) | 8300 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2000 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(11/04),ABC(17/04,6600m),C1(03/05,7400m),C4(24/05,7000m),C5(25/05,7800m),xxx(28/05,8300m) |
| Route Notes | BC at road ABC at East Rongbuk (normal site) C1 in couloir immediately on east side of North Ridge C4 at North Col C5 on North Ridge by Schmidt and Lacatusu. 2 French were not teammates really, refused to carry even light loads. Quite technical ground to C1 subject to a little rock fall on warm days & to slab avalanche conditions if there snow & wind; very steep mixed rock & hard ice; fixed from glacier at about 6800m to C1. From C1 up couloir & very fast but steep & fixed here also to 8000m. 9th May & again 16th May reached this highest point on this route: Brice & Chuldin Sherpa 1st, Schimid & Ang Rita 2nd time (Ang Rita strong). Intended to make C2 at N Ridge at normal C6 site, but ran out of rope temporarily & there heavy snowfall with strong winds loaded couloir with small avalanching daily. 22nd May Brice at 7800m avalanche came from above & confirmed that would have trouble if continued. 23 May asked Swenson his agreement to change route to normal one & on 24th had people at the N Col C4 7000m & content (paid Americans fee of $1000 per person). 25th Lacatusu & Schmidt at C5 without Sherpa at 7800m on N Ridge & this the highest any members reached (but 3 Sherpas went higher, to C6 at 8300m on 26th to rescue Canadian). Found some old fixed ropes 200m above C1 which had not been placed by Schmuck's Spring 1991 member who died there. Japanese C1 debris found there & Barry Blanchard reportedly had been in this couloir then basically ended up helping rescue others. If commercial expeditions went to take shortcuts; it's irresponsible because spare oxygen, etc. lacking. 5th May sent Sherpas down to help Simonson's Sherpas carry down one of there Sherpas from ABC to BC. 19 & 20 May helped N Ridge Italians get down from N Col & down to ABC. 25th May Simonson member (Paul) very sick with asthma at N Col & Brice's doctor had to help him & sending 31 Sherpas on oxygen from C4 (7000m) to C6 (8300m) in 4 hrs 20 minutes & rescued Canadians (used up all of Brice's Sherpa support and oxygen). 28th helped Simonson's Whetu get down from C5 to C4 & on down to ABC in storied rescue. 30th Whetu rode Brice yak to BC. For Brice team to continue impossible: were totally exhausted - had also spent time & effort looking after Kowalzik's members, Lacatusu went out and fixed Canadian's McIsaac when he was falling on N Ridge, plus cleaned everything off the mountain; had people in position to go for top & in condition to do so but burned out by rescues & support not available for possible summit pair (Schmidt & Lacatusu). Sherpas to 8300m were Chuldin, Karsang (Ang Rita's son) and Lobsang. Brice team came at right time; others there a month before them, battled wind and cold for a month. People on south summited while north side people tied down by winds; north side never successfully climbed by guided clients. |
| Accidents | Nothing serious |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451720 |
| Year | 1994 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | couloir on e side of n ridge (to 8000m) |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Russell Reginald Brice | M | 1952 | New Zealand | Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Barry Bridgeman | M | 1937 | New Zealand | Climber | Auckland, New Zealand | Dentist | Details Other expeditions |
| Stuart Hutchison | M | 1962 | Canada | Climber | Montreal, Quebec | Cardiologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Constantin Lacatusu | M | 1961 | Romania | Climber | Piatra Neamt, Romania | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Chantal Mauduit | F | 1964 | France | Climber | Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France | Physiotherapist | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard Desmond (Dick) Price | M | 1947 | New Zealand | Climber | Timaru, New Zealand | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Martin Walter (Marty) Schmidt | M | 1960 | New Zealand | Climber | Christchurch, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Rene Robert | M | 1961 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaime Vinals Massanet | M | 1961 | Guatemala | Climber | Guatemala City, Guatemala | Biologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Von Whitby | M | 1948 | USA | Climber | Salt Lake City, Utah | Investment banker | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Rita Sherpa | M | 1948 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yilajung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Karsang Namgyal/Namgel Sherpa | M | 1971 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lobsang Temba (Lupsang Temba) Sherpa | M | 1968 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chuldin Temba (Chuldim) Sherpa | M | 1962 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Zarok, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER94113 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 69:300-301 (1995) | - |
| EVER94113 | HIGH | - | - | - | 144:39 (Nov 1994) | - |
| EVER94113 | - | - | http://www.lacatusu.ro | - | - | - |
| EVER94113 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530000/Asia-Tibet-Everest-from-Tibet-in-the-Pre-Monsoon | - | - | - |