Everest | 1994 N Col-NE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Everest in 1994 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Giuliano De Marchi. Summit reached on 19th May 1994. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1480
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER94110
Peak ID EVER
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Giuliano De Marchi
Sponsor Everest 1994 Valasassina Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-04-01
Summit Date 1994-05-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 48
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1994-05-21
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8650m due to lack of time
High Point (m) 8650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/04),ABC(11/04,5550m),C1(16/04,6500m),C2(19/04,7000m),C3(26/04,7700m),C4(29/04,8400m),xxx(19/05,8650m)
Route Notes C2 at North Col C3 on North Ridge C4 at bottom of yellow band on North Face. 1st attempt for top reached C4 9th May De Marchi, Spazzadeschi and Tirtha Tamang; winds forced 2 nights stay in C4 and 11th down to C2 and then ABC: "multi vento." 2nd bid up from ABC 16th May: De Marchi, Gianola, Beltrami, Tenzing and reached C3 17th; De Marchi, Beltrami and Tenzing reached C4 on 18th; found oxygen and 2 sleeping bags and taken from C4 (using Taiwanese tent and perhaps Simonson's Sherpas thought bags and oxygen were Taiwanese). De Marchi on 19th at 3:30 am, left from C4 together [with Hahn]; reached 2nd Step and De Marchi turned back (tired and long way to go still and getting later and had only 1 bottle oxygen while Hahn had 2) at 8650m at 1 pm and slept in C4 and 20 May to C2. During descent to C4 got frostbite taking many hours, trouble finding route, all alone, stopped too often and long. Now climb finished: this was to be last summit bid and yaks scheduled to clear gear from ABC 21 May.
Accidents De Marchi frostbitten toes & fingers; nothing else
Achievement -
Agency In Wilderness (Kunga)
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451711
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tarcisio Beltrami M 1956 Italy Climber Carisolo, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Calimero Costadoni M 1957 Italy Climber Barzio, Como, Italy Artisan Details Other expeditions
Giuliano De Marchi M 1947 Italy Leader/Exp Doctor Belluno, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Angelo Fazzini M 1958 Italy Climber Premana, Como, Italy Artisan Details Other expeditions
Giambattista (Tita) Gianola M 1963 Italy Climber Premana, Como, Italy Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Flavio Spazzadeschi M 1953 Italy Deputy Leader Casargo, Como, Italy Alpinist & resturanteur Details Other expeditions
Tirtha Tamang M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Lapcha, Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER94110 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:300-301 (1995) -
EVER94110 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530000/Asia-Tibet-Everest-from-Tibet-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -