Everest | 1994 N Face (Great Couloir)

A Italy expedition to Everest in 1994 via N Face (Great Couloir), led by Giuseppe Vigani, Bruno Ongis. Summit reached on 13th May 1994. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1481
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER94109
Peak ID EVER
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Great Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Giuseppe Vigani, Bruno Ongis
Sponsor Everest 1994
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-03-30
Summit Date 1994-05-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 44
Total Days 46
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8400m due to fatal fall by leader
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,5150m),ABC(03-04/04,5650m),C1(11/04,6200m),C2(18/04,6400m),C3(24/04,7300m),C4(03/05,7700m),C5(10/05,8200m),xxx(12-13/05,8400m)
Route Notes BC at road C1 on North Face C2 on North Face C3 on North Face C4 at bottom of Great Couloir C5 in Great Couloir. Fixing rope on rock band was this team's job, agreed with Canadians & reached 8350-8400m. Fixed a little rope & down to C4 waiting to go to top. 15th May after 5 days in C5, they decided to descend; had been waiting for winds to drop. Curnis was in lead in descent, then 4 hrs behind was G Vigani & last was Soregaroli, fixed Canadian rope to 8150m (couloir very bad very icy) but Vigani slipped at 8000m (seen by binoculars from C2). Body seen at 6400m but not reached because too dangerous where it is ("we saw lots of things [that he was carrying] & the body probably") - climb finished. Kitchen boy Prem Thapa died of altitude sickness; became sick at ABC & died at BC on about 6 April and cremated at Rongbuk.
Accidents Curnis frostbitten fingers; leader fell and 1 cook boy died altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency In Wilderness (Kunga)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451705
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (great couloir)

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Piermauro Soregaroli M 1959 Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Parapente-flying instructor Details Other expeditions
Abele Caffi M 1950 Italy Exp Doctor Castione della Presolana, Bergamo, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Marzio Carrara M 1961 Italy Climber Albino, Bergamo, Italy Car mechanic Details Other expeditions
Ettore Colombo M 1945 Italy Climber Trezzo-sull 'Adda, Milano, Italy Textile technician Details Other expeditions
Mario Curnis M 1936 Italy Climber Nembro, Bergamo, Italy Building worker Details Other expeditions
Paolo Gugliermina M 1959 Italy Exp Doctor Torino, Italy Ophthalmologist & journalist Details Other expeditions
Angelo Longhi M 1939 Italy Climber Scanzo Rosciate, Bergamo, Italy Building worker Details Other expeditions
Massimiliano Giuliani M 1939 Italy Climber Bolldo di Albino, Bergamo, Italy Retired textile company manager Details Other expeditions
Renata Morotti F 1950 Italy Climber Villa Di Serio, Bergamo, Italy Textile worker Details Other expeditions
Bruno Ongis M 1954 Italy Leader Albino, Bergamo, Italy Building worker Details Other expeditions
Pietro Pasini M 1950 Italy Climber Albino, Bergamo, Italy Building worker Details Other expeditions
Alberto Piantoni M 1956 Italy Climber Chiari, Brescia, Italy Industrial manager Details Other expeditions
Mario Signori M 1947 Italy Climber Scanzo Rosciate, Bergamo, Italy Electrical technician Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Stabilini M 1947 Italy Climber Rovetta, Bergamo, Italy Building worker Details Other expeditions
Antonio Vigani M 1949 Italy Climber Villa Di Serio, Bergamo, Italy Hydraulic technician Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Vigani M 1951 Italy Leader Villa Di Serio, Bergamo, Italy Electrical technician Details Other expeditions
Prem Thapa M - Nepal Kitchen Boy - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER94109 AAJ - - - 69:300-301 (1995) -
EVER94109 HIGH - - - 144:39 (Nov 1994) -
EVER94109 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530000/Asia-Tibet-Everest-from-Tibet-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -