Everest | 1994 N Col-NE Ridge (up); Great Couloir (down)

A Taiwan expedition to Everest in 1994 via N Col-NE Ridge (up); Great Couloir (down), led by Chang Jui-Kong. Summit reached on 8th May 1994. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1486
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER94106
Peak ID EVER
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge (up); Great Couloir (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Taiwan
Leaders Chang Jui-Kong
Sponsor 1994 Taiwan Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 188
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-03-26
Summit Date 1994-05-08
Summit Time 1718
Summit Days 43
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1994-05-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/03),ABC(01/04,6500m),C1(08/04,7028m),C2(21/04,7790m),C3(04/05,8300m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes On 8th May from C3 were Shih and Hu with Ongda Chhiring and Moti Lal Gurung - walkie-talkie contact 2 pm, Hu run out of oxygen at 8450m and turned back with Moti Lal to C3. Chhiring at 8600m about 2 pm felt not well because lack of oxygen (carried but didn't use it) and suggested to Shih they turn back and try again next day, but Shih decided to continue up alone. Chhiring went back to C3. Shih at 17:18 called by walkie-talkie, said had come to top and many flags here; took pictures; was told to come down because getting late (snowfall would start that time). At 20:27 Shih radioed "I'm in danger - don't know how to go" because of snow and said he had fallen twice. At 20:46 Shih said he'd found rope and wanted to use it. Moti said no, wrong rope because it was in Great Couloir - 21:00, Shih said "I'm very tired, I must dig snowhole to have nice sleep." Moti told Shih he would bring oxygen and from tomorrow morning so stay where he was but keep moving all night not to sleep. From 22:00 every 30 minutes BC called Shih and talked to him; he responded 7:32 am 9th May when said he's okay and could see him. 9:38 am told him to go east, he could hear because he moved that way but could no longer transmit. Was seen moving very slowly until before 12:00, after 4 hrs movement, he was seen to stop and not move again. Then strong winds began. Moti did not go up but went down with Hu to C1 at noon; Hu very weak. Moti called on radio to other team's Sherpa to go up but no one can help. Shih stopped at 8700m, 100m east of Great Couloir. Ongda Chhiring and 2 other Sherpas started up from C1 to go up to bring down C2 tents. These Sherpas will never enter Tibet again: CMA knows whole story and never think about life but about recovering valuable tent. 2 members in C1 but not strong enough to go up - climb finished. Moti Lal had said no C4 necessary. All Koreans except BC manager went to ABC but only 9 to C1. Oxygen used by 4-man summit party of 8 May - used sleeping in C3 and climbing up on 8th May. Steve Matous, US Everest N leader - 24 May 94 (re Taiwanese Everest): Norman Shih ordered to summit or not come back. Taiwanese refused to help rescue Phinzo in Simonson team. 18 Sherpas carried him down ABC and this set back all teams except Taiwanese who wanted to go for summit instead. Moti worked very hard for Taiwanese - "murder" not justified. Taiwanese blamed Sherpas when they themselves were not competent. Sloezen - 9 June 94 (re Taiwanese Everest): Moti was completely occupied with rescuing another Taiwanese who had altitude sickness and couldn't possibly rescue Shih too. Taiwanese inexperienced - not up to this kind of climb.
Accidents None except Shih's death
Achievement -
Agency Peak Promotion
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451700
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge (up); great couloir (down)

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ho-Tsu Chang M 1960 Taiwan Climber Shien-Den Shih, Taipei, Taiwan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jui-Kong Chang M 1948 Taiwan Leader - TV producer Details Other expeditions
Shien-Jin Chang M 1968 Taiwan Climber Taipei, Taiwan Government service Details Other expeditions
Gao-Jin Guo M 1948 Taiwan Climber Hsing Ching, Taipei, Taiwan Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Yen-Chung Hsu M 1949 Taiwan Climber Dai-Swei, Taipei, Taiwan Businessman Details Other expeditions
Jui-Fa Hu M 1957 Taiwan Climber Taipei, Taiwan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Yung-Kei Lai M 1950 Taiwan Deputy Leader Taipei, Taiwan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Chung-Hua Liu M 1963 Taiwan Climber Taipei, Taiwan Computer painter Details Other expeditions
Fang-Fang (Norman) Shih M 1967 Taiwan Climber Hualein Shien, Taiwan Tour leader Details Other expeditions
Yi-Hsiung Sung M 1944 Taiwan BC Manager Tow-Yuan, Taiwan Businessman Details Other expeditions
King-Rong Wang M 1960 Taiwan Deputy Leader Pan-Chou Shih, Taipei, Taiwan Taxi driver Details Other expeditions
Chen-Fu Yei M 1958 Taiwan Climber Tan-Yung Hsien, Taiwan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Zea-Liang Chen M 1963 Taiwan Climber Kou Shon, Taiwan Computer scientist Details Other expeditions
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Ongda Chhiring/Tshering Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER94106 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:300-301 (1995) -
EVER94106 HIGH - - - 144:39 (Nov 1994) -
EVER94106 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199530000/Asia-Tibet-Everest-from-Tibet-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -