Everest | 1994 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1994 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Todd Burleson. Summit reached on 13th May 1994. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1497
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER94102
Peak ID EVER
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Todd Burleson
Sponsor Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest Expedition 1994
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 192
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, Poland, S Africa, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-03-15
Summit Date 1994-05-13
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 59
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/03,5300m),C1(12/04,6100m),C2(14/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7300m),C4(09/05,7900m),Smt(13/05)
Route Notes C4 at South Col. 7th May one of Hall team's Sherpas went up early on Lhotse Face, came back after dropping load and prepared tents collapsed and not possible to sleep in them. Members tured around after only an hour's trek out of C2 (at bottom of W Face) and thus put back program by a day. Burleson Sherpas not turned around and found tents actually entirely usable. So summit party reached C3 on 8th and C4 on 9th; on 9th winds became very strong in mid-afternoon. 10th in this party: Burleson, Athans, Pawlowski, Todd, Cedergreen, Morrow, Kerr, Fischbeck, Lakes and Sherpas Lhakpa Rita, Chuwang Nima, Kami Rita, Dorje and "Gopal" Man Bdr Tamang. Had to stay in C4 4 nights before able to go for top because of winds (may be 50-60 mph - could walk around col but could not have gotton clients to top) and would never have gotten clients back up to C4 if had gone down. 12th May afternoon winds died and all 15 climbers set out for summit at midnight. Todd frostbite and turned back at 8150m; Lakes suddenly took off oxygen, fell hours behind (had been helping Todd) but cannot account for reason he turned back 100m below South Summit. Fischbeck ran out of oxygen below South Summit and turned back, so his pal Kerr (who had summited before) also turned back. Fischbeck moving fairly slowly and would have difficult to get him to summit. All slept at C4 again and on 14th to C2. Whitby evacuated by helicopter from BC 25th April because of intestinal obstruction and went to Singapore for treatment and is recovering. Oxygen: C2-C3 - Burnett C3-C4 - all clients, some guides, no Sherpas At C4 - all climbers all the times they were there whenever they wanted it C4 to top - all who went up from Col Lhakpa Rita no oxygen above 8400m Lakes stopped and used at 8600m C4 in descent used by Morrow, Cedergreen and Fischbeck to about 6600m (base of fixed ropes) Sherpa Summiters: 1) Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, Thami, this is 3rd summit ascent, no other 8000ers 2) Chuwang Nima Sherpa, Thami, this his first 8000m summit 3) Kami Rita Sherpa, Thami, Lhakpa Rita's younger brother, this his 1st 80004er 4) Dorje Sherpa, Thami, this his 4th Everest ascent 5) "Gopal" Man Bahadur Tamang, lives in Kathmandu, this his 2nd Everest ascent Summiters times on summit: 11:00 am - 5 Nepalese together 12:00 pm - Pawlowski and Cedergreen 12:30 pm - Morrow and Athans 1:15 pm - Burleson
Accidents Whitley intestinal obstruction; Todd & Morrow frostbite (will heal)
Achievement -
Agency Main Excursions
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451705
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter George (Pete) Athans M 1957 USA Deputy Leader Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aryne (Kay) Barber F 1969 USA BC Manager Woodinville, Washington Airline flight attendant Details Other expeditions
Randy Todd Burleson M 1960 USA Leader Palos Verdes, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Lee (Bernard) Burnett M 1939 USA Climber Golden, Colorado Businessman Details Other expeditions
Robert E. (Bob) Cedergreen M 1947 USA Climber Palos Verdes, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Frank Brian Dieter Fischbeck M 1939 S Africa Climber Hong Kong Businessman Details Other expeditions
Keith Graham Kerr M 1952 UK Climber Hong Kong Business executive Details Other expeditions
Jeffrey Charles (Jeff) Lakes M 1962 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Paul Harold Morrow M 1954 USA Climber Middletown, Pennsylvania Technician Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Jan Pawlowski M 1950 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John (Alan) Richardson M 1948 UK Climber London, England Company director Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Mountain guiding company owner Details Other expeditions
Robert H. Whitby M 1940 USA Climber Greenwich, Connecticut Financial consultant Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Rita Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhuwang Nima Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Tesho, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Man Bahadur (Gopal) Tamang M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Jaidu, Salleri, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kami Rita (Topke) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER94102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:235 (1995) -
EVER94102 HIGH - - - 144:39 (Nov 1994) -
EVER94102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523500/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -