Everest | 1993 N Col-NE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1993 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Jonathan Tinker. Summit reached on 9th October 1993. 25 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1298
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER93307
Peak ID EVER
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Col-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Jonathan Tinker
Sponsor OTT (Out There Trekking) Qomolongma Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 181,183
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Finland, France, Ireland, Poland, Russia, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-08-30
Summit Date 1993-10-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 40
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1993-10-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 23
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/08,5200m),ABC(08/09,6400m),C1(11/09,7000m),C2A(18/09,7800m),C2B(7900m),C3(08/10,8100m),Smt(09-10/10)
Route Notes In addition to climbing party of 19, there was Harry Taylor's 4-man party for research: they arrived at BC on 22 or 23 Sept with programme to use a special device brought by NASA's Henize to study the effects of solar radiation on human tissue (for US space program's trip to Mars). They planned to spend a week at BC, another week at ABC and had a vague idea to go to North Col. They acclimatized for a week at BC, then went to ABC on 2 Oct (3 went to ABC - Nish did not, was having difficulty with the altitude; party had spent 2-3 days in Kathmandu and then straight through to BC). At ABC Henize deteriorated very quickly, was carried down to 6000m and died in the early hours of 5 Oct in a Gamov bag from pulmonary edema and buried near where he died. Others in this party then went straight home. Chronology: Aug 30 - arrived BC 5200m. Sep 8 - established ABC 6400m. Sep 11 - established C1 7000m North Col. Sep 18 - established C2 7800m. (subsequent C2 at 7800m reportedly or 7900m) Oct 5 - Death of Karl Henize aged 67 from Houston, Texas of pulmonary edema. Buried at pre-war British Camp II, 6000m. Oct 9 - Summit reached by Maciej Berbeka and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa on 8th Oct C3 made at 8100m and a new variation made directly to the Second Step. 6-1/2 hours to summit. Down to C2 by Berbeka and to C1 by Nuru Sherpa. Oct 10 - Summit reached by Jonathan Tinker and Ang Babu Chhiri Sherpa. Ang Babu did not use oxygen but slept on it at C3. Bad weather precludes further attempts. Oct 18 - BC cleared. Other points of varying interest: 1. John and Brigitte Muir reached 7600m together. 2. Norman Croucher, double-leg amputee, reached 7600m. 3. Maciej Berbeka, first Pole to climb from Tibet. 4. Jon Tinker, first Englishman to climb [higher than] Mallory. 5. Lhakpa Nuru, 4 Everest summits in past 2 years. 6. We should raise at least US $100,000 for our charities. All used oxygen in C3 sleeping and all except Babu Tshering (Ang Babu) used it climbing above C3 4 climbing Sherpas No casualities except Henize Dr. McConnell left expedition with Taylor party; had personal problems.
Accidents None except Henize's fatal altitude sickness
Achievement 1st Polish summiter from Tibet
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451443
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n col-ne ridge

Members

25 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kevin Bassindale M 1944 UK Climber Bristol, Avon, England Engineer Details Other expeditions
Maciej Berbeka M 1954 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Businessman Details Other expeditions
John Brindle M 1944 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Computer expert Details Other expeditions
Christopher B. (Chris) Brown M 1946 UK Climber Thirsk, N Yorkshire, England Farmer Details Other expeditions
Norman E. Croucher M 1940 UK Climber London, England Lecturer on mountaineering Details Other expeditions
Patrick (Pat) Falvey M 1957 Ireland Climber Cork, Ireland Businessman Details Other expeditions
Harry Hakomaki M 1962 Finland Climber Helsinki, Finland Bricklayer Details Other expeditions
Bruce Hubbard M 1965 UK Climber London, England Banker Details Other expeditions
Georgi Kotov M 1955 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Kenneth Douglas (Ken) McConnell M 1951 Australia Climber Tasmania, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
Brigitte Muir F 1958 Australia Climber Natimuk, Victoria, Australia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
John Robert Muir M 1961 Australia Deputy Leader Natimuk, Victoria, Australia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ian Murrin M 1966 UK Climber London, England Public relations man Details Other expeditions
Ralph J. Newbigin M 1955 UK Climber Southampton, Hampshire, England Banker Details Other expeditions
Graham Gordon Ratcliffe M 1955 UK Climber Whiteley Bay, Tyne & Wear, England Businessman Details Other expeditions
Thierry Raoul Renard M 1945 France Climber Paris, France Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Paavo Saarela M 1963 Finland Climber Helsinki, Finland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ian Swarbrick M 1959 UK Climber Worcester, England Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Jonathan (Jon) Tinker M 1959 UK Leader York, N Yorkshire, England Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Nish Bruce M - UK Research England Pilot Details Other expeditions
Karl Gordon Henize M 1926 USA Research Houston, Texas NASA astronaut and technician Details Other expeditions
Brian Tilley M 1956 UK Climber Poole, Dorset, England Sergeant in SAS of British armed forces Details Other expeditions
Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor M 1958 UK Research Radley, Oxford, England Director of outdoor adventure company Details Other expeditions
Babu Chiri (Babu Tshering) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Chhulemu, Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER93307 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:274-275 (1994) -
EVER93307 AJ Tinker, Jonathan Climbing the North Ridge of Everest - 100:25-29 (1995) -
EVER93307 HIGH - - - 135:11-12 (Feb 1994) -
EVER93307 HIGH Tinker, Jon Everest North Ridge (Photo Guide) - 136:70-75 (Mar 1994) -
EVER93307 - Falvey, Pat A Journey to Adventure Collins Press, Wilton, Cork, Ireland - -
EVER93307 - Falvey, Pat Reach for the Sky Collins Press, Cork, Ireland - -
EVER93307 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427402/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -
EVER93307 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1995_files/AJ%201995%2025-29%20Tinker%20Everest.pdf - - -