Everest | 1993 N Col-NE Ridge
A UK expedition to Everest in 1993 via N Col-NE Ridge, led by Jonathan Tinker. Summit reached on 9th October 1993. 25 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1298 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER93307 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1993 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 2 |
| Route 1 | N Col-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Jonathan Tinker |
| Sponsor | OTT (Out There Trekking) Qomolongma Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 181,183 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, Finland, France, Ireland, Poland, Russia, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1993-08-30 |
| Summit Date | 1993-10-09 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 40 |
| Total Days | 49 |
| Termination Date | 1993-10-18 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 23 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(30/08,5200m),ABC(08/09,6400m),C1(11/09,7000m),C2A(18/09,7800m),C2B(7900m),C3(08/10,8100m),Smt(09-10/10) |
| Route Notes | In addition to climbing party of 19, there was Harry Taylor's 4-man party for research: they arrived at BC on 22 or 23 Sept with programme to use a special device brought by NASA's Henize to study the effects of solar radiation on human tissue (for US space program's trip to Mars). They planned to spend a week at BC, another week at ABC and had a vague idea to go to North Col. They acclimatized for a week at BC, then went to ABC on 2 Oct (3 went to ABC - Nish did not, was having difficulty with the altitude; party had spent 2-3 days in Kathmandu and then straight through to BC). At ABC Henize deteriorated very quickly, was carried down to 6000m and died in the early hours of 5 Oct in a Gamov bag from pulmonary edema and buried near where he died. Others in this party then went straight home. Chronology: Aug 30 - arrived BC 5200m. Sep 8 - established ABC 6400m. Sep 11 - established C1 7000m North Col. Sep 18 - established C2 7800m. (subsequent C2 at 7800m reportedly or 7900m) Oct 5 - Death of Karl Henize aged 67 from Houston, Texas of pulmonary edema. Buried at pre-war British Camp II, 6000m. Oct 9 - Summit reached by Maciej Berbeka and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa on 8th Oct C3 made at 8100m and a new variation made directly to the Second Step. 6-1/2 hours to summit. Down to C2 by Berbeka and to C1 by Nuru Sherpa. Oct 10 - Summit reached by Jonathan Tinker and Ang Babu Chhiri Sherpa. Ang Babu did not use oxygen but slept on it at C3. Bad weather precludes further attempts. Oct 18 - BC cleared. Other points of varying interest: 1. John and Brigitte Muir reached 7600m together. 2. Norman Croucher, double-leg amputee, reached 7600m. 3. Maciej Berbeka, first Pole to climb from Tibet. 4. Jon Tinker, first Englishman to climb [higher than] Mallory. 5. Lhakpa Nuru, 4 Everest summits in past 2 years. 6. We should raise at least US $100,000 for our charities. All used oxygen in C3 sleeping and all except Babu Tshering (Ang Babu) used it climbing above C3 4 climbing Sherpas No casualities except Henize Dr. McConnell left expedition with Taylor party; had personal problems. |
| Accidents | None except Henize's fatal altitude sickness |
| Achievement | 1st Polish summiter from Tibet |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451443 |
| Year | 1993 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n col-ne ridge |
Members
25 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kevin Bassindale | M | 1944 | UK | Climber | Bristol, Avon, England | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Maciej Berbeka | M | 1954 | Poland | Climber | Zakopane, Poland | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| John Brindle | M | 1944 | UK | Climber | Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England | Computer expert | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher B. (Chris) Brown | M | 1946 | UK | Climber | Thirsk, N Yorkshire, England | Farmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Norman E. Croucher | M | 1940 | UK | Climber | London, England | Lecturer on mountaineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Patrick (Pat) Falvey | M | 1957 | Ireland | Climber | Cork, Ireland | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Harry Hakomaki | M | 1962 | Finland | Climber | Helsinki, Finland | Bricklayer | Details Other expeditions |
| Bruce Hubbard | M | 1965 | UK | Climber | London, England | Banker | Details Other expeditions |
| Georgi Kotov | M | 1955 | Russia | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia | Travel agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenneth Douglas (Ken) McConnell | M | 1951 | Australia | Climber | Tasmania, Australia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Brigitte Muir | F | 1958 | Australia | Climber | Natimuk, Victoria, Australia | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| John Robert Muir | M | 1961 | Australia | Deputy Leader | Natimuk, Victoria, Australia | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Ian Murrin | M | 1966 | UK | Climber | London, England | Public relations man | Details Other expeditions |
| Ralph J. Newbigin | M | 1955 | UK | Climber | Southampton, Hampshire, England | Banker | Details Other expeditions |
| Graham Gordon Ratcliffe | M | 1955 | UK | Climber | Whiteley Bay, Tyne & Wear, England | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Thierry Raoul Renard | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Travel agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Paavo Saarela | M | 1963 | Finland | Climber | Helsinki, Finland | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ian Swarbrick | M | 1959 | UK | Climber | Worcester, England | Surveyor | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan (Jon) Tinker | M | 1959 | UK | Leader | York, N Yorkshire, England | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Nish Bruce | M | - | UK | Research | England | Pilot | Details Other expeditions |
| Karl Gordon Henize | M | 1926 | USA | Research | Houston, Texas | NASA astronaut and technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Brian Tilley | M | 1956 | UK | Climber | Poole, Dorset, England | Sergeant in SAS of British armed forces | Details Other expeditions |
| Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor | M | 1958 | UK | Research | Radley, Oxford, England | Director of outdoor adventure company | Details Other expeditions |
| Babu Chiri (Babu Tshering) Sherpa | M | 1965 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Chhulemu, Taksindu, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER93307 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 68:274-275 (1994) | - |
| EVER93307 | AJ | Tinker, Jonathan | Climbing the North Ridge of Everest | - | 100:25-29 (1995) | - |
| EVER93307 | HIGH | - | - | - | 135:11-12 (Feb 1994) | - |
| EVER93307 | HIGH | Tinker, Jon | Everest North Ridge (Photo Guide) | - | 136:70-75 (Mar 1994) | - |
| EVER93307 | - | Falvey, Pat | A Journey to Adventure | Collins Press, Wilton, Cork, Ireland | - | - |
| EVER93307 | - | Falvey, Pat | Reach for the Sky | Collins Press, Cork, Ireland | - | - |
| EVER93307 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427402/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Ascent-and-Tragedy | - | - | - |
| EVER93307 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1995_files/AJ%201995%2025-29%20Tinker%20Everest.pdf | - | - | - |