Everest | 1993 S Col-SE Ridge

A France expedition to Everest in 1993 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Alain Esteve. Summit reached on 6th October 1993. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1493
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER93306
Peak ID EVER
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Alain Esteve
Sponsor Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 177,182
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-08-27
Summit Date 1993-10-06
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 40
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-933-01)
Campsites BC(27/08,5400m),C1(30/08,6000m),C2(05/09,6400m),C3(18/09,7150m),C4(05/10,7900m),Smt(06,09/10)
Route Notes C1 in Western Cwm C2 on Lhotse Face; later at 7250m (after avalanche) Everest C4 at South Col. 10th Sept avalanche took away C3 and supplies for Lhotse C4, Everest C4 (3000m rope) and fixed ropes; re-established C3 100m higher than first C3 on 30th Sept with only one tent since Sherpas didn't want to sleep on face. Then fixed rope on 1 Oct 250m, above C3 from C3. 2nd Oct bad winds; 3rd Oct two teams left C3, one for S Col and other for C4 of Lhotse and slept in Lhotse C4 by 1 French and 2 Sherpas while 1 French slept in C3 to join them next day to Lhotse summit. 4th Oct Lhotse team in their C4 started at 9:00 am while man in C3 started at 4:30, on Lhotse C4 at 8:00 am and down at 9:00 am; 2 Sherpas fixed rope to bottom of couloir; Lhotse summit reached 4 pm by Vionnet-Fausset (sirdar Danu claimed he also got to top but French do not believe him and Vionnet denies this) and slept in C2 at 9:30 pm; now Lhotse climb finished. Everest C4 made and occupied 5th Oct by Gramond, Cayrol, Bernard, Gyalbu & Dawa Tashi and all 5 on summit on 6th (Gramond never used oxygen) and slept in C4; On top about 2:30 pm; Gyalbu fell 15m on Hillary Step and waited for 2 French to go first. 9th next party to top; Esteve found 1 British guide and 1 Sherpa from Ball's expedition and tripod with glass altitude measuring device from Italian research program. Sherpas previous ascents of Everest: Norbu - South Col route Gyalbu - Hornbein route Dawa Tashi - 2X South Col Gombu - no Everest summit before Everest Aut 1993, Sherpa summiters 6 Oct - Gyalbu, 29, Rolwaling Spr 1991 Everest (N) Swedes Dawa Tashi 30, Rolwaling Spr 1993 Everest Aut 1992 Everest Dutch 9 Oct - Norbu (Nuru) 25, Rolwaling Gombu, 25, Rolwaling no previous Everest ascent None atop any other 8000ers before.
Accidents Gryzka slight frostbite; Gyalbu not hurt by slight fall
Achievement -
Agency Pabil Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451440
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Francois Bernard M 1963 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant Details Other expeditions
Antoine Cayrol M 1966 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Alain Esteve M 1952 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Commandant Details Other expeditions
Hubert Giot M 1954 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Eric Gramond M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant teaching climbing in army's Mt'eering school Details Other expeditions
Emmanuel Morin M 1959 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant Details Other expeditions
Bernard Orcel M 1947 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Lieutenant Colonel in army film unit & exped photographer Details Other expeditions
Francois Pigeard M 1960 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Captain (Dr. in army's mountaineering school) Details Other expeditions
Jean-Marc Gryzka M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant Details Other expeditions
Gyalbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tashi Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Norbu/Nurbu (Nuru) Sherpa M 1968 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Nima Gombu (Gombu) Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER93306 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:213 (1994) -
EVER93306 HIGH - - - 138:7 (May 1994) -
EVER93306 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421301/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Tragedy-and-Lhotse - - -