Everest | 1993 S Col-SE Ridge
A France expedition to Everest in 1993 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Alain Esteve. Summit reached on 6th October 1993. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1493 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER93306 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1993 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Alain Esteve |
| Sponsor | Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM) |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 177,182 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1993-08-27 |
| Summit Date | 1993-10-06 |
| Summit Time | 1430 |
| Summit Days | 40 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 12 |
| Summit Hired | 4 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-933-01) |
| Campsites | BC(27/08,5400m),C1(30/08,6000m),C2(05/09,6400m),C3(18/09,7150m),C4(05/10,7900m),Smt(06,09/10) |
| Route Notes | C1 in Western Cwm C2 on Lhotse Face; later at 7250m (after avalanche) Everest C4 at South Col. 10th Sept avalanche took away C3 and supplies for Lhotse C4, Everest C4 (3000m rope) and fixed ropes; re-established C3 100m higher than first C3 on 30th Sept with only one tent since Sherpas didn't want to sleep on face. Then fixed rope on 1 Oct 250m, above C3 from C3. 2nd Oct bad winds; 3rd Oct two teams left C3, one for S Col and other for C4 of Lhotse and slept in Lhotse C4 by 1 French and 2 Sherpas while 1 French slept in C3 to join them next day to Lhotse summit. 4th Oct Lhotse team in their C4 started at 9:00 am while man in C3 started at 4:30, on Lhotse C4 at 8:00 am and down at 9:00 am; 2 Sherpas fixed rope to bottom of couloir; Lhotse summit reached 4 pm by Vionnet-Fausset (sirdar Danu claimed he also got to top but French do not believe him and Vionnet denies this) and slept in C2 at 9:30 pm; now Lhotse climb finished. Everest C4 made and occupied 5th Oct by Gramond, Cayrol, Bernard, Gyalbu & Dawa Tashi and all 5 on summit on 6th (Gramond never used oxygen) and slept in C4; On top about 2:30 pm; Gyalbu fell 15m on Hillary Step and waited for 2 French to go first. 9th next party to top; Esteve found 1 British guide and 1 Sherpa from Ball's expedition and tripod with glass altitude measuring device from Italian research program. Sherpas previous ascents of Everest: Norbu - South Col route Gyalbu - Hornbein route Dawa Tashi - 2X South Col Gombu - no Everest summit before Everest Aut 1993, Sherpa summiters 6 Oct - Gyalbu, 29, Rolwaling Spr 1991 Everest (N) Swedes Dawa Tashi 30, Rolwaling Spr 1993 Everest Aut 1992 Everest Dutch 9 Oct - Norbu (Nuru) 25, Rolwaling Gombu, 25, Rolwaling no previous Everest ascent None atop any other 8000ers before. |
| Accidents | Gryzka slight frostbite; Gyalbu not hurt by slight fall |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Pabil Treks |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451440 |
| Year | 1993 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-se ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Francois Bernard | M | 1963 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army adjutant | Details Other expeditions |
| Antoine Cayrol | M | 1966 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Sergeant | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Esteve | M | 1952 | France | Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Commandant | Details Other expeditions |
| Hubert Giot | M | 1954 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Captain | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric Gramond | M | 1962 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army adjutant teaching climbing in army's Mt'eering school | Details Other expeditions |
| Emmanuel Morin | M | 1959 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army adjutant | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernard Orcel | M | 1947 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Lieutenant Colonel in army film unit & exped photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Francois Pigeard | M | 1960 | France | Exp Doctor | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Captain (Dr. in army's mountaineering school) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Marc Gryzka | M | 1962 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army adjutant | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyalbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tashi Sherpa | M | 1964 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Norbu/Nurbu (Nuru) Sherpa | M | 1968 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Gombu (Gombu) Sherpa | M | 1969 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER93306 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 68:213 (1994) | - |
| EVER93306 | HIGH | - | - | - | 138:7 (May 1994) | - |
| EVER93306 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421301/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Tragedy-and-Lhotse | - | - | - |