Everest | 1993 N Face (Great Couloir) (to 7160m)

A USA expedition to Everest in 1993 via N Face (Great Couloir) (to 7160m), led by Ed Viesturs. Summit reached on 13th October 1993. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1491
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER93304
Peak ID EVER
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Great Couloir) (to 7160m)
Route 2 N Col-NE Ridge (to 7800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Ed Viesturs
Sponsor 1993 Everest N Face Solo
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-08-24
Summit Date 1993-10-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 50
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1993-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(24/08,5250m),ABC(28/08,5500m),C1(03/09,5850m),C2(13/09,6550m),xxx(14/09,7160m); NCol-RidgeRte-Biv(11/10,6500m),Biv(12/10,7000m),xxx(13/10,7800m)
Route Notes BC at road ABC at Shipton Meadows (nice lateral moraine) C1 at base of Changtse before the glacier Biv at North Col ABC Biv at North Col. Did carries to corner camp (C1) - whole basin of Rongbuk couloir was basin of avalanche debris so decided to acclimatize on route leading to Great Couloir - got to 23,500 ft. On 14th Sept after having gone around to other side of N Col hoping to acclimatize by going to col, but bad weather intended & on 14th again bad weather (big storm) so down to ABC on 15th. Back to C2 on 19th, another storm 20th ABC, C1 on 25th, ABC 26th with another storm. C2 on 29th & 30th to 23,000 ft on earlier but snow "slabby" & back to C2. On 2nd Oct again to 23,000 ft but snow no better & down to ABC. 5th to C2, snow fell & back to ABC. C2 on 8th, on 9th even worse than before so decided finished with N Face. On 11th to N Col ABC from east side now alpine-style; N col ABC at 21,300 ft. 12th to N Col, 13th to 25,600 ft close to traditional C5 but strong wind could barely stand up so back to col; 14th at col, 15th one more push: to 25,000 ft, still very windy & down to N Col ABC & 16th to Chinese BC. Other team's camps had been shredded by winds. Viesturs last person off the mountain from north side. Ms Gunn spent most of time at ABC but to C1 once; Tanding Sherpa to C2 once; rest of time Viesturs climbed alone.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Nepal Himal
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451447
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (great couloir) (to 7160m)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Carolyn Gunn F 1949 USA BC Manager Jackson, Wyoming Fishing guide, ski patrol member, painter & veterinarian Details Other expeditions
Edmund Karl (Ed) Viesturs M 1959 USA Leader Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tamting Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER93304 AAJ Viesturs, Ed - - 68:273-274 (1994) -
EVER93304 HIGH - - - 138:7 (May 1994) -
EVER93304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427302/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Attempt - - -