Everest | 1993 S Pillar-SE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Everest in 1993 via S Pillar-SE Ridge, led by Juanito Oiarzabal. Summit reached on 7th October 1993. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1302
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER93303
Peak ID EVER
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Pillar-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Juanito Oiarzabal
Sponsor III Expedition Sportive and Scientific Everest 1993
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 178
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-08-23
Summit Date 1993-10-07
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 45
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1993-10-09
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 8
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/08,5400m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(07/09,6400m),C3(16/09,7400m),C4(06/10,8100m),Smt(07/10)
Route Notes C1 almost at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 at South Pillar C4 at South Pillar. Icefall route made by Spanish except for one day's work by British team's Sherpas & 2 other Sherpas employed for icefall work. Joined normal route at c8250m. Many problems to make C3 because route very steep & very icy: made c15-16 Sept but bad weather after & had to stay in BC 12 days & returned to C3 on 29th to find it broken but could be repaired & was slept in again only when working on route above C3 (on 5th Oct) & now weather is good. On 7th Oct 1st (successful) party left C4 at 1:30 am & arrived top 12:30 pm, little windy on top; fixed rope that day as they ascended to 8250m waited 2 hrs on Hillary Step while British expedition's Blanco to go up step & he was delayed by oxygen having run out & didn't realize it. Oiarzabal down pillar route & are C4 at 5 pm. 2nd party 2 members [Miranda and Apellaniz], Moti Gurung & Thilen left C4 at 1:45 am; Apellaniz stopped at bottom of Hillary Step (8700m) because oxygen finished & waited there & Miranda at South Summit & waited for summiters to join them. Moti stayed with these 2 while Thilen down to C2 from S Summit; Apellaniz wanted more oxygen from Oiarzabal but he had given to Blanco. At 8300m, just before top of fixed ropes, Miranda fell to 6600m or higher; fell down normal route's couloir, breaking his skull and dying very quickly. Rojo had circulation problem in foot. Madinabeitia & Ruiz De Infante slept in C3 6th and down with summit parties, abandoning their own summit plans because of Miranda's fatal accident. All down to BC to recover body, which will be sent home tomorrow.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451441
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s pillar-se ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga M 1956 Spain Leader Vitoria, Alava, Spain Fish shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Ongda Chhiring/Tshering Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Juan Ignacio (Axto) Apellaniz Aguiriano M 1954 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain City official Details Other expeditions
Jon Armentia M 1958 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Adolfo Madinabeitia Merino M 1959 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Foundary worker Details Other expeditions
Jose Martinez Ferrer M 1953 Spain Exp Doctor Villodas, Alava, Spain Physician (cardiologist) Details Other expeditions
Antonio Miranda M 1958 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Does odd jobs (last one was at a petrol pump) Details Other expeditions
Luis Angel Rojo Garcia M 1966 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Policeman Details Other expeditions
Benzamin Ruiz de Infante M 1950 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Owner-manager of printing company Details Other expeditions
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Thilen Sherpa M 1968 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER93303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:213 (1994) -
EVER93303 HIGH - - - 138:7 (May 1994) -
EVER93303 - Betelu, Kiko El Everest de Juanito Oiarzabal Ediciones Desnivel, Madrid - -
EVER93303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421301/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Tragedy-and-Lhotse - - -