Everest | 1993 S Pillar-SE Ridge
A Spain expedition to Everest in 1993 via S Pillar-SE Ridge, led by Juanito Oiarzabal. Summit reached on 7th October 1993. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1302 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER93303 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1993 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Pillar-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Juanito Oiarzabal |
| Sponsor | III Expedition Sportive and Scientific Everest 1993 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 178 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1993-08-23 |
| Summit Date | 1993-10-07 |
| Summit Time | 1230 |
| Summit Days | 45 |
| Total Days | 47 |
| Termination Date | 1993-10-09 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2000 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 7 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(23/08,5400m),C1(01/09,6000m),C2(07/09,6400m),C3(16/09,7400m),C4(06/10,8100m),Smt(07/10) |
| Route Notes | C1 almost at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 at South Pillar C4 at South Pillar. Icefall route made by Spanish except for one day's work by British team's Sherpas & 2 other Sherpas employed for icefall work. Joined normal route at c8250m. Many problems to make C3 because route very steep & very icy: made c15-16 Sept but bad weather after & had to stay in BC 12 days & returned to C3 on 29th to find it broken but could be repaired & was slept in again only when working on route above C3 (on 5th Oct) & now weather is good. On 7th Oct 1st (successful) party left C4 at 1:30 am & arrived top 12:30 pm, little windy on top; fixed rope that day as they ascended to 8250m waited 2 hrs on Hillary Step while British expedition's Blanco to go up step & he was delayed by oxygen having run out & didn't realize it. Oiarzabal down pillar route & are C4 at 5 pm. 2nd party 2 members [Miranda and Apellaniz], Moti Gurung & Thilen left C4 at 1:45 am; Apellaniz stopped at bottom of Hillary Step (8700m) because oxygen finished & waited there & Miranda at South Summit & waited for summiters to join them. Moti stayed with these 2 while Thilen down to C2 from S Summit; Apellaniz wanted more oxygen from Oiarzabal but he had given to Blanco. At 8300m, just before top of fixed ropes, Miranda fell to 6600m or higher; fell down normal route's couloir, breaking his skull and dying very quickly. Rojo had circulation problem in foot. Madinabeitia & Ruiz De Infante slept in C3 6th and down with summit parties, abandoning their own summit plans because of Miranda's fatal accident. All down to BC to recover body, which will be sent home tomorrow. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451441 |
| Year | 1993 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s pillar-se ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga | M | 1956 | Spain | Leader | Vitoria, Alava, Spain | Fish shopkeeper | Details Other expeditions |
| Ongda Chhiring/Tshering Sherpa | M | 1970 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Juan Ignacio (Axto) Apellaniz Aguiriano | M | 1954 | Spain | Climber | Vitoria, Alava, Spain | City official | Details Other expeditions |
| Jon Armentia | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Vitoria, Alava, Spain | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Adolfo Madinabeitia Merino | M | 1959 | Spain | Climber | Vitoria, Alava, Spain | Foundary worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Jose Martinez Ferrer | M | 1953 | Spain | Exp Doctor | Villodas, Alava, Spain | Physician (cardiologist) | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonio Miranda | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Vitoria, Alava, Spain | Does odd jobs (last one was at a petrol pump) | Details Other expeditions |
| Luis Angel Rojo Garcia | M | 1966 | Spain | Climber | Vitoria, Alava, Spain | Policeman | Details Other expeditions |
| Benzamin Ruiz de Infante | M | 1950 | Spain | Climber | Vitoria, Alava, Spain | Owner-manager of printing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Moti Lal Gurung | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sedua, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Thilen Sherpa | M | 1968 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER93303 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 68:213 (1994) | - |
| EVER93303 | HIGH | - | - | - | 138:7 (May 1994) | - |
| EVER93303 | - | Betelu, Kiko | El Everest de Juanito Oiarzabal | Ediciones Desnivel, Madrid | - | - |
| EVER93303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421301/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Tragedy-and-Lhotse | - | - | - |