Everest | 1993 N Face (Great Couloir)

A USA expedition to Everest in 1993 via N Face (Great Couloir), led by Robert Anderson. Summit reached on 13th September 1993. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1488
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER93202
Peak ID EVER
Year 1993
Season 2
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face (Great Couloir)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Robert Anderson
Sponsor Everest 1993 - 40th Anniversary Ascent
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-07-08
Summit Date 1993-09-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 67
Total Days 70
Termination Date 1993-09-16
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8400m due to deep snow
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ChineseBC(08/07),ABC(17/07,5565m),C1(29/07,6150m),C2(05/08,6520m),C3(12/09,7600m),xxx(13/09,8400m)
Route Notes BC at road head ABC at Tilman's meadow (below North Face west of Changtse) C1 just north of pt 6189 on NGS map C2 in basin below North Col on col's west side C3 at bottom of Great Couloir. From C2 split into parties but used some route (and did not attempt heavily snowed-up "Anderson Couloir"). Up N Face into Great Couloir (as Italians led by Forno in '91). Anderson, Teare & Bearzi left C2 17th Aug, Anderson to 7500m to see snow conditions & other 2 went on up all night & made deposit for C3 at 7600m. Easiest walking was on avalanche tracks - came down through C2, where Anderson had spent the night and all those down to ABC. Went up to C2 several times hoping that weather break had arrived; 27th Aug (Duncan & other 3 climbers) spent night there, camp hit and buried by two avalanches and back to ABC on 28th in strong storm from north. 3 Sept up again by Anderson & Bearzi, blizzard came and on 4th back to ABC. 11th Sept to C2 by 3 climbers but Anderson slept there; others down because storm clouds reappeared. 12th Sept Anderson left alone 5 am & climbed to 7600m deposit in 9 hrs; had hoped to go straight thru to summit but snow knee-deep & worse so stayed at 7600m. At 3 am 13th Sept Anderson started up again but snow in couloir deep. Got to yellow band & snow deeper. At 6:15 pm stopped ascent getting dark so down; in dark couldn't find own tracks on C3 and at 11 pm bivouacked at about 7600m near C3 in small snowhole for the night. 7 am on 14th left biv & down to C2, 15th to BC - raging blizzard on 14th. Anderson sees his climb a solo attempt since he was alone on his last two days push to the summit. Ed Viesturs - 21 Oct 93: Viesturs saw Anderson just below yellow band and believes his account of having gone across the band using rope he found there.
Accidents Hammell's eyes hit by rock
Achievement -
Agency Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451417
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (great couloir)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robert Mads Anderson M 1958 USA Leader Auckland, New Zealand Writer & photographer Details Other expeditions
Michael Anthony (Mike) Bearzi M 1953 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Home building contractor Details Other expeditions
Joseph Mark Blackburn M 1946 USA Climber New Canaan, Connecticut Photographer Details Other expeditions
Mike Duncan M 1956 USA Climber Englewood, Colorado Buffalo rancher Details Other expeditions
Bill Hammell M 1957 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska Anesthesiologist Details Other expeditions
Walter L. (Walt) McConnell M 1931 USA Exp Doctor Wharton, New Jersey Physician Details Other expeditions
Paul (Wally) Teare M 1959 Canada Climber Tahoe City, California Carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER93202 AAJ Wickwire, James - - 68:273 (1994) -
EVER93202 HIGH - - - 138:7 (May 1994) -
EVER93202 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427301/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Summer-Attempts - - -