Everest | 1993 S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1993 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by John Barry, Peter Earl. Summit reached on 10th May 1993. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1221
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER93115
Peak ID EVER
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders John Barry, Peter Earl
Sponsor DHL British 40th Anniversary Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 158,172
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Canada, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-04-06
Summit Date 1993-05-10
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 34
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04),C1(12/04,6400m),C2(15/04,6860m),C3(07/05,7470m),C4(08/05,7900m),Smt(10,17/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm (next to Basques at top of camps) C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. On 10th Taylor up from col alone; had arrived with 2 Sherpas and sent them down on 9th. On 9th Scott, Barry, Stephens and 2 Sherpas (who later summited) arrived at col; Scott down on 10th. Taylor left col at 11 pm on 9th entirely alone and without oxygen and on top 11:30 am on 10th. Seen going up on SE Ridge by New Zealanders who overtook him without his snow goggles (he later insisted he wore them all the time - altitude sickness?). In descent fell into small crevasse and now snowblind and extremely tired - again not far above Col fell down ice slope, did on ice-arrest and believes he spent 2-3 hrs trying to get down (had fallen out of sight of others on correct path to col). Finally 10 pm started shouting, heard by Basques who were preparing to go to top and were higest up col and who went up to to him and brought him to col tent in such extemis that he would have died in next half hour; suffering from hypethermia, cerebal edema, snowblindness, dehydration and exhaustion and it was discovered in C2 big toes badly frostbitten and nose slightly frostbitten. No one went up from Brits because 70 mph winds. Taylor failed to respond to torch signals. Taylor refused oxygen for 6 hrs at col but Stephens finally shoved mask on him. 11th Taylor not fit to descend from col and Barry stayed with him while Stephens and 2 Sherpas went down; Taylor and Barry went down on 12th and Taylor got to BC 14th and was picked up by helicopter at BC same day - don't know weather will lose a bit of one toe. Stephens and 3 Sherpas on 16th from C2 to C4, left C2 5 am and on col 2:30 pm. 17th 1 am Stephens and 3 Sherpas left col 4 am. Stephens and 2 Sherpas on top 11:45 am and back at col 5 pm and 2 Sherpas and back at col 5 pm and 2 Sherpas to C2 same day because feared onset of snowblindness. 18th May Stephens and Sherpa Zambu from Col to BC and all members now in BC but Sherpas cleared camps and down to BC on 22nd May. Sherpa summiters said Stephens is good climber and led part of climb above col. Sherpa summiters: Ang Pasang Sherpa, 28, Pangboche, this his 1st 8000m summit Kami Tshering Sherpa, 29, Pangboche, this his 1st 8000m summit
Accidents Pinju Sherpa bad back Apr 8, did not climb again; Taylor frostbite, etc.
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451291
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
William Geoffrey (Bill) Barker M 1943 UK Climber Betwys-y-Coed, Gwynedd, Wales Computer analyst Details Other expeditions
John Barry M 1944 UK Co-Leader Llanrwst, Gwynedd, Wales Writer & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Noel David Bristow M 1964 UK Exp Satellite Engineer Carmel Head, Gwynedd, Wales Computer systems analyst Details Other expeditions
Peter Richard Stephen Earl M 1964 UK Co-Leader Shipton-under-Wychwood, Oxford, England Merchant banker Details Other expeditions
Brian Alan Freeland M 1959 Australia BC Manager Carlingford, NSW, Australia Property manager Details Other expeditions
David Thomas Halton M 1960 UK Climber Southport, Merseyside, England Mechanical service engineer Details Other expeditions
Wyn Jones M 1965 UK Climber Llanrwst, Gwynedd, Wales Photographer Details Other expeditions
Andrew John (Andy) Peacock M 1949 Canada Climber Glasgow, Scotland Physician Details Other expeditions
Michael Rhode M 1940 USA Climber London, England Property development consultant Details Other expeditions
John Michael (Jan) Rowe M 1945 UK Climber Plymouth, Devon, England Cafe owner Details Other expeditions
John Lincoln Rowe M 1951 UK Exp Artist Lockerbie, Dumfries, Scotland Artist Details Other expeditions
Gordon (Sandy) Scott M 1944 UK Exp Doctor Shipton-under-Wychwood, Oxford, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Sandy) Simpson M 1948 UK BC Manager Southampton, Hampshire, England Retired naval officer Details Other expeditions
Rebecca L. Stephens F 1961 UK Climber London, England Journalist (fired for joining expedition) Details Other expeditions
Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor M 1958 UK Climber Radley, Oxford, England Director of outdoor adventure company Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) Walsh M 1944 UK Climber Betwys-y-Coed, Gwynedd, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kami Tshering (Ang Chhiring) Sherpa M 1962 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Christine Fenn F 1957 UK Climber Aberdeen, Scotland Nutritionist Details Other expeditions
Tshering Zambu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER93115 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:207-211 (1994) -
EVER93115 - Stephens, Rebecca On Top of the World Macmillan, London - -
EVER93115 HIGH Curran, Jim Everest Unplugged - 128:44-49 (Jul 1993) -
EVER93115 AJ Stephens, Rebecca A British Woman on Everest - 99:125-129 (1994) -
EVER93115 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420700/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season - - -
EVER93115 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1994_files/AJ%201994%20125-130%20Stephens%20Everest.pdf - - -