Everest | 1993 W Cwm-W Ridge (to 6800m)
A Russia expedition to Everest in 1993 via W Cwm-W Ridge (to 6800m), led by Alexender Volguine. Summit reached on 10th May 1993. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1220 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | EVER93114 |
| Peak ID | EVER |
| Year | 1993 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Cwm-W Ridge (to 6800m) |
| Route 2 | S Col-SE Ridge |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Russia |
| Leaders | Alexender Volguine |
| Sponsor | Programma Pikki - to Everest |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | 163,164,167,173 |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Belarus |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1993-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 1993-05-10 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 37 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8849 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7200m),C4(29/04,7900m),Smt(10,15-17/05) |
| Route Notes | C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col (first slept at Col 8 May). Climbed Khumbutse twice: 1st to fix rope, 2nd to bring down rope: via long couloir to ridge running W and then SW from S Ridge and past on W Ridge to junction with S Ridge. Did not descend into Tibet because that side of S Ridge very dangerous snow conditions; so decided to go into Cwm and try American route onto W Shoulder and 1st camp above BC was at top of icefall (had 1 tent biv. at 6000m on Khumbutse). Fixed rope from C2 towards shoulder; reached 6800m and rope finished. When returned to BC, Nepali expedition asked help to bring down Pasang Lhamu's body; now lost a lot of time so better to go to top via S Col, combining help to Nepalis and going to top. Waited 10 days for permit to climb American route. On 8th May slept at col total 6 members not to go to summit but to help retrive Pasang Lhamu's body; went to col for summit separately: some tired from retrival body and rested in various camps. Mouravlev went to summit and then helped retrival on his descent; got to top last of all summiters that day. On 15th May Janochkine to top with 2 Basques and 2 Americans and before 2 Indians. Koroteev 15th May BC to col, wanting to go to top but very tired when reached col and took one day rest, left col 6 am on 17th and reached top after British party of 3 had started down; as he descended, met 2 British party (near S Summit); Sherpa was going down without summiting, but man going up alone. Altadill (Catalan Everest) - 28 May 1993 Trial by Everest liaison officers at Namche decided 23 May Russian member had sold to a Namche shop 4 pairs of high altitude boots stolen from Korean SW Face team at C1. British Everest members - 31 May 1993 Russian stole British mats and sold them (also other items). Others stole oxygen and drink and tent at C4. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Kailash Journeys Treks |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451291 |
| Year | 1993 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w cwm-w ridge (to 6800m) |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vladimir Bachkirov | M | 1952 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Computer engineer (space program) | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander (Alex) Abramov | M | 1964 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny | M | 1938 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Alpine guide & carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Ianotchkine | M | 1951 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | High school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Petr Kniazev | M | 1961 | Russia | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Koroteev | M | 1955 | Russia | Deputy Leader | Moscow, Russia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Edouard Lipen | M | 1936 | Belarus | Exp Doctor | Minsk, Belarus | Physician, staff member of Minsk Institute of Medicine | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexei Mouravlev | M | 1961 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Romanov | M | 1971 | Russia | Climber | Klimovsk, Russia | Russian army agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Volguine | M | 1935 | Russia | Leader | Moscow, Russia | Engineer/Business | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| EVER93114 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 68:207-211 (1994) | - |
| EVER93114 | HIGH | - | - | - | 130:7 (Sep 1993) | - |
| EVER93114 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420700/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season | - | - | - |