Everest | 1993 S Col-SE Ridge

A Nepal expedition to Everest in 1993 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Pasang Lhamu Sherpa. Summit reached on 22nd April 1993. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1226
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER93111
Peak ID EVER
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Pasang Lhamu Sherpa
Sponsor Nepali Woman's Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 153
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-03-30
Summit Date 1993-04-22
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 23
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/03,5350m),C1(02/04,6050m),C2(05/04,6500m),C3(07/04,7375m),C4(20/04,7900m),Smt(22/04)
Route Notes C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. When reached C2, Sherpas went to C3 site next day & day after that slept there: Lhotse Face no snow on it, all ice & quite easy & Pemba Nuru urged opening route to Col quickly so Sonam agreed. C3 slept in 7th April, then all down to BC. 11 am 12th Pemba Nuru & Lhakpa Nuru BC to C2, 17th in C2, 14th to C3 & 15th made route to Geneva Spur & down to C2. 16th 4 Sherpas also rested in C2. 17th 6 Sherpa-support men to Col with loads & slept in C2. 18th & 19th rested in C2 while Pasang Lhamu & Pemba Dorje to C3 & 20th to C4 while other 4 Sherpas to C4 from C2 (Kilu Temba, Pemba Dorje, Sonam & Lhakpa Futi to go to top 26th). Pemba Dorje was to stay at C4 in support of Pasang Lhamu's summit party, but Pasang Lhamu took him to top instead. 21st stayed at C4 and that night weather was clear and left at midnight for top: 5 men and Pasang Lhamu. 22nd New Zealand Sherpas and Athans and Pfau Sherpas to S Col and saw PL team at South Summit at 10:00 am (saw from Geneva Spur). From 8500m Sonam Tshering coughing blood but kept going up; he was just behind Pasang Lhamu and Pemba Nuru. Dawa Tashi ahead to fix rope; not deep snow (fixed rope from S Summit to top of Hillary Step). Dawa Tashi waited at top for other 5. All started down at 2:30 in wind and heavy snowfall which came as they were at top - two feet of snow deep when reached bottom of Hillary Step. Took 5 hours to get down to South Summit (now dark) and Pasang said she could not descend next difficult section in dark and without rope and wanted to stop there and they dug shallow snowhole there on summit side of South summit; Pasang, Pemba Nuru and Sonam Tshering stopped there (Pemba Nuru had extra oxygen bottle which he gave to Sonam at 9:00 pm). At 6:30 am 23rd Pemba said time to go down; all oxygen now finished; Sonam too weak (now vomitting blood); Pasang insisted to stay with Sonam; Pemba left at 7:00 am to get oxygen from Col, but he was too tired to go up; 3 other Sherpas had slept at Col and started up after her reached Col (up at about 9:00 am) and reached 8300m; too windy and they went back to C4 where 3 slept night while Pemba Nuru to C2. 24th Korean woman's 2 Sherpas tried to go up and 1 Sherpa from Korean SW Face team and Kilu up from Col; reached 8500m and wind cloudy and after 2 hours at 8500m far better weather and then down. No one since then above col. 21st April set by team as summit date, 1st of 3 attempt dates - 12 May and 29 May were alternate dates: 21st Pertemba and Norwegians 12th NZ, et al say this normal time: 5-15 May 29th 1st ascent Pemba Nuru keen to go for 21st date when there was good weather 5 support Sherpas and 2 fresh Sherpas will try to bring down bodies. Ang Tshering - 23 May 93 Korean women could have saved Pasang Lhamu's life if they had cooperated on 23rd and sent Sherpas up from Col. (Ang Tshering is Pasang Lhamu's husband brother) Pemba Norbu - 24 May 93 Left South col tents at 11:30 pm 2 April and Col at midnight, on top 2:15 pm, very windy. Pemba Nuru and Dawa Tashi 10 steps ahead of others on top to take pix; 3rd on top Sonam Tshering, Pasang Lhamu, Lhakpa Nuru, Nawang Thile last changed Pasang Lhamu's oxygen at top. From Col Pasang Lhamu carried own oxygen to 8400m and then Lhakpa Nuru took it over, and she took her oxygen by long tube. Lhakpa Nuru then had 4 bottles (2 oxygen). Pasang Lhamu very slow. Sonam Tshering last person in descent, even behind Pasang Lhamu, who did not know how to come down, had to be dragged down. Sonam Tshering sick (coughing blood) in descent. Pemba Nuru carried 4 oxygen bottles, 3 for himself and 1 extra. Gave now his extra at 7:00 pm at South Summit to Sonam Tshering when Pasang Lhamu told him Sonam sick, coughing blood. When on oxygen, not coughing (did not have TB). Pasang Lhamu stopped 50m below South summit on Col side. Other 3 Sherpas had gone ahead of Pasang Lhamu, Sonam Tshering (these two "weak people") and Pasang Norbu. She now waited to go back up and over South Summit to just below South Summit on Hillary Step side. Sonam Tshering (tired) had stopped 20 steps on that side and Pasang Lhamu sighted Pertemba's biv site here. So made biv here, scooped out some snow and sat against 40% slope 12:30-1:00 am Sonam Tshering coughing again, his oxygen finished at 12 midnight (Pasang Norbu's finished at 7:00 pm) and Pasang Lhamu still had 20% left. Sonam Tshering had pain both sides (both lungs) and coughed frothy blood - coughed 1/2 litre blood during night 5:30 am light came but Pasang Lhamu wanted to wait for sun but cloudy. Pasang Nuru said at 7:00 am no direct sun so down now. Pasang Lhamu tried to get up and fell over twice. Sonam Tshering too weak to stand. All oxygen finished (Pasang Lhamu's finished 8:00 pm). Pasang Nuru's vision affected now - sees yellow. Pasang Lhamu said we cannot go down without oxygen, Pasang Nuru should go to Col and send 3 others up with oxygen. Pasang Nuru left 7:05-7:10 am and reached Col 9:40 am, found 3 there in their tent. Pasang Nuru told them they should go up, they said they were tired (had reached Col 9:00 pm, had food and oxygen). They left Col at 12:00 pm to go up with oxygen and Pasang Nuru then went down to C2, the three men went up 30 meters and back to Col and slept there again. Pasang Lhamu and Sonam Tshering could have been saved if 3 men had gone up that day. Koreans women and their Sherpas reached Col that day from C3 so did other Teams (NZ and Indian). 24th Pasang Nuru up fear C2 to Col and that day 2 Korean women Sherpas, 1 other Korean Sherpa and Kilu Temba up from Col to 8400m and wind stopped (Kilu Temba from BC almost non-stop). Had left 1 oxygen, and 4 head lamps at 8400m. Pasang Nuru had no strength to take this oxygen up. Had taken to summit are wind shield but no other biv equipment had such big loads of oxygen and tea and lunch: 26 Kg per man. Pasang Lhamu carried only 1 oxygen bottle at first, no walkie-talkie. Pasang Lhamu went for top early because of Nuru, not because of Heo and Sherpas on top on 13th. Indian Sherpas spread story Indian woman would go for top 25-26 April Sonam Tshering biv was on East Face side of South Summit and Pasang Nuru thinks he fell down East Face in desperate final pain from lungs. Pasang Nuru found Pasang Lhamu's body on 10th May; she was sitting exactly where he last saw her. Hall & Ball - 21 May 93 Sonam Tshering was coughing blood from South Col (TB) but Pasang Lhamu and Lhakpa Sonam ordered him up as supposedly strongest member. Last year he was immensely strong on NZ team. 1 Sherpa who went down to South Col on 22nd was Pasang Lhamu's brother. Pemba Nuru on 23rd pushed the 3 to go up to her and Sonam Tshering; they went up a little, but then down. Pemba Nuru raised no alarm below Col till he reached C2. No use of other's walkie-talkie, no talk with teams at C3. Todd Burleson 22 May 93 Pasang Lhamu: Todd said in autumn 1993 he was present at Everest when Pasang Lhamu's husband (Lhakpa Sonam) ordered her to go up the mountain. She was weeping but he was forcing her to go up. Husband forcing her to get to Everest summit because he knew her success would make him rich. Nepal Everest: Nanda Rai got sick in C2 from altitude. Lhakpa had to bring her down (not my job but Sherpas sent with loads to C4) this 17 April. Pasang Lhamu had said she and Lhakpa Futi would go to top together. Then in BC after Gokyo-area acclimatization trek and Pasang Lhamu saw how strong Lhakpa Futi was, Pasang Lhamu said Lhakpa Futi should be in 2nd summit party. "I have to compete with the Indians and with Nimi but you don't have to compete with anyone" so go in 2nd team. Lhakpa Futi agreed, said she wanted 3 Sherpas; Pasang Lhakpa said she could have 2, Kilu Temba and Pemba Dorje. This conversation 9th April evening. Then they went up and to C3 together (with Sonam). Pasang Lhamu didn't know how to descend with crampons. She had to go down sideways. She got angry when Lhakpa Futi went faster in descent to C2 and Sherpas told Lhakpa Futi that Pasang Lhamu jealous of Lhakpa Futi (this on 15 April). 16th they stayed in C2 and Nanda Rai arrived C2 15th, got altitude sickness 15/16th night and US doctor advised taking her down. Pasang Lhamu told DF to take her down. Expedition had no walkie-talkies at all. Lhakpa Futi New Zealand to report arrival at BC and Pasang Lhamu told her to send up cook but she should stay at BC because bad weather. Kilu also at BC said "they are playing too clever, we should go up". DF went to C2 with cook; Pasang Lhamu had gone to C3 and took Nawang Thile on 24th with 2 Korean women Sherpas up to C5 8500m only because windy, very foggy and deep snow on night of 23/24th. Sonam Tshering said should make C5, 2 women go to top with 4 Sherpas but Pasang Lhamu and husband didn't listen. On 22nd there was no C5. Normally take 45 minutes from main summit to South Summit but Pasang Lhamu took 5 hours. Pemba Nuru pulled Pasang Lhamu to top and Nawang Thile pushed while at same point Nawang Thile took over her oxygen bottle to carry it. Now Sherpas say Pasang Lhamu treated DF. The way Pasang Lhamu said March Batard treated her, Sherpas realize Batard not all bad. Pemba Nuru left 2 in very bad condition: biv night incapable of descending by themselves (Sonam Tshering coughing blood). No communications and no support at Col. Same Korean women today to 8400m but high winds turned them back. "It doesn't look good - chances are virtually nil of their survival." In crevasse on southeast of South Summit - normal down gear and oxygen for round trip. "Sonam Tshering strongest Sherpa we have ever met and exceptional person." Went out ahead of others expeditions; were completely on their own; no potential support from other teams. Khatiwada, Ministry of Tourism - 16 March 93 Three reasons why Pasang Lhamu was asked to pay 90% of royalty: 1. She had agreed at time of signing of agreement between NMA and IMF regarding Indian womens expedition that she would be one of 3 Nepalese women members. She was offered deputy leader post but Nimi refused to be member if she and Pasang Lhamu were not on equal level and Pasang Lhamu insisted she must be above Nimi, so after agreement signed, she quit. 2. She applied for her own permit, thus bringing total Everest expeditions to 20. So she wrote with her application she would pay full royalty (she claims she wrote she would pay whatever amount required, but this is not correct and ministry has letter in her own handwriting to prove this). 3. After receiving permit in name of Nepal Women's Everest Expedition, she wrote to ministry to ask name change to San Miguel Nepal Womens Everest Exped, and though not explicitly stated in this letter, "spirit of the letter" was this would help her get funds for royalty payment. Pasang Lhamu asked Prime Minister for substanial rebate of royalty when he received her at official residence about a week ago. He passed request to to Tourism Ministry, who decided in view of above to offer 10%, which she spurned.
Accidents Nanda Rai altitude sickness at C2 and had to be helped to BC and left BC in chopper with [Lhakpa] Sonam on 25th
Achievement 1st Nepalese woman on summit
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451273
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nanda Rai F - Nepal Climber Kathmandu Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Futi Sherpa F - Nepal Climber Kathmandu Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa F 1962 Nepal Leader Surke, Khumbu & Kathmandu Housewife Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa M 1962 Nepal Climber Kathmandu Trekking agent Details Other expeditions
Pemba Norbu/Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Monjo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Thile (Pemba Dorje) Sherpa M 1953 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tashi Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Kilu Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER93111 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:207-211 (1994) -
EVER93111 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:211-213 (1994) -
EVER93111 HIGH - - - 130:5-7 (Sep 1993) -
EVER93111 HIGH - - - 135:13 (Feb 1994) -
EVER93111 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420700/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season - - -
EVER93111 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421100/Asia-Nepal-Everest-First-Ascent-by-a-Nepalese-Woman-and-Tragedy - - -
EVER93111 - - https://explorersweb.com/everest-obsession-the-pasang-lhamu-case/ - - -