Everest | 1992 S Col-SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Everest in 1992 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Philip Neame. Summit reached on 19th December 1992. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1199
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER92401
Peak ID EVER
Year 1992
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Philip Neame
Sponsor Darc Star-Territorial Army Everest Campaign
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-11-16
Summit Date 1992-12-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1992-12-25
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7900m due to effects of storm
High Point (m) 7900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 19
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 22
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/11,5350m),C1(23/11,6100m),C2(25/11,6450m),C3(29/11,7300m),xxx(19/12,7900m)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face High point at South Col. Icefall in "horrific" condition with route not having been maintained as promised. Argued with Asian Trekking about this and about the sirdar, Ang Tshering of Khumbu, "unreliable," a drunkard, and the Sherpa team who were "yak herders" (Asian Tkg. agrees sirdar's wages not to be paid) and who once rested throwing rocks at each other (Pangboche men vs Khumjung men). Icefall very unstable especially at top end, much more so than in spring 1976 when Neame was on Everest and "took its toll on people's nerves." Above 7300m totally different wind conditions from those below. Had cursory look at S Pillar, but early on hoped to beat the winds (jet stream) with push on normal route, which had more ropes left from autumn rather than fixing pillar, where no ropes to be seen and no platform ledges also. Route to C3 appeared on 28th Nov but not occupied until next day by Harry Taylor alone after Sherpa turned back 150 ft below camp site because it was cold and windy (Sherpas given same clothing as members). Now in early Dec, a period of high winds to 9th Dec, during which stocked C2 and C3. Weather forecast that 9th and then on 13th would be good; 9th wasn't. C3 occupied on 12th but now forecast unfavorable and down again (skeleton crew at C2 and others to BC). Forecast next for 19th (on which date Sherpas fixed route to col with Mike Smith below them a bit; some of route already fixed well) and Smith spent 8 nights/9 days continuously at C2, 3 nights alone. Sherpas ignored instructions, on 20th dumped oxygen at yellow band instead of col and descended to C2 instead of C3 only. Now Sherpas made a nonsense of logistical plans. 23rd forecast to be good. On 21st Smith joined in light snow showers by Taylor, Tinker, Duff and Pelkey in C3. 22nd 4 members planned to move to C4 and Sherpas to carry loads to C4 but no Sherpas moved out of C2 that day because slight mist. With forecast that jet stream would sit overhead from 25th indefinitely, light push on 22nd seen at last chance and was made by Taylor, Smith, Pelkey and Duff from C3, picking up oxygen at yellow band with biv at col and Taylor and Pelkey to top on 23rd. On 22nd, 4 set off for col at 11 am (late to minimize hours at col and C3 very cold till sun reached it at 10:30 am), Pelkey slipped on fixed ropes at yellow band in fresh snow on top of ice and ripped shoulder muscles, all 4 going very slowly with heavy loads, fresh snow underfoot and worsening weather so at 4:15 pm gave it up at 7900m because facing "an epic at the col" (Smith) in wind and snow, were going slowly, due to Pelkey's shoulder, Duff unwell from believed onset of cerebral edema and toes freezing (other 2 OK). Slept in C3 but Pelkey on verge of hypothermia and had to put up another tent which took long time. Then storm worsened that night: C3 - 1 of 2 tents destroyed On 23rd and 23rd/24th night: C2 - 6 of 9 tents destroyed and 2 destroyed but usable C1 - 2 of 2 tents destroyed BC - really untouched All in BC 24th except Neve. Descent from C3 to C2 had been an epic in itself. In cwm 120 mph gusts on 23rd and temperature below -30 degrees centigrade day time and night, "flesh-freezing kind of cold" (Smith whose cheeks had sunface frostbite). 25th morning meeting decided no more attempts: "weather forecasts" for next week at least (Jan no success in past), damaged camps would have had to be rebuilt, "useless Sherpas" and "state of team" with few potential summits in tents of experience and remaining strength (only Neve and Neame still fit and experienced) so "what was point of continuing, acclimatizing risk with little chance of success?" Smith: "I think we should have gone back" after several weeks" rest.
Accidents 2 Sherpas injured in icefall (1 broken leg, 1 broken ribs and 'banged' head)
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451148
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christine A'Court F 1960 UK Exp Doctor Oxford, England Physician (Captain in Royal Army Medical Corps) Details Other expeditions
John Batty M 1954 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England British Telecom engineer Details Other expeditions
Brendan Conlon M 1960 UK Climber Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria, England Management consultant Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Mal) Duff M 1953 UK Climber Culross, Fife, Scotland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lionel Fairweather M 1964 UK Climber Harlow, Essex, England Lance Corporal in territorial army Details Other expeditions
Barry Mills M 1964 UK Climber Hayes, Middlesex, England Engineer Details Other expeditions
Myles S. Morley M 1955 UK Climber Greystoke, Cumbria, England Teacher Details Other expeditions
Philip Neame M 1946 UK Leader Basingstoke, Hampshire, England Lieutenant Colonel in the parachute Regiment Details Other expeditions
Nicholas Neve M 1961 UK ABC Manager Oxted, Surrey, England Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
William L. Pelkey M 1959 USA Climber Jericho, Vermont Alpine instructor at mountain warfare school Details Other expeditions
James Perryer M 1964 UK Climber Chester, Cheshire, England Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Rodney Stables M 1960 UK Deputy Leader Oxford, England Cardiologist Details Other expeditions
John Rennie M 1964 UK Climber Inverurie, Aberdeen, England Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Michael Smith M 1961 UK Climber Lilleshall, Shropshire, England Picks up odd jobs as needed Details Other expeditions
Bryan Stadden M 1956 UK Climber Bristol, Avon, England Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jonathan (Jon) Tinker M 1959 UK Climber York, N Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
James Wilkinson M 1938 UK BC Manager Lindale Grange, Cumbria, England Director of managemant training company Details Other expeditions
Michael Timothy Woolridge M 1960 UK Climber Coleraine, Victoria, Australia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Harold Christopher (Harry) Taylor M 1958 UK Climber Radley, Oxford, England Director of company arranging extreme outdoor activities Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER92401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 67:221 (1993) -
EVER92401 HIGH - - - 125:7 (Apr 1993) -
EVER92401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199322103/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Winter-Attempt - - -