Everest | 1992 SW Face

A Ukraine expedition to Everest in 1992 via SW Face, led by Mikhail Turkevich. Summit reached on 19th October 1992. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1190
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER92312
Peak ID EVER
Year 1992
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ukraine
Leaders Mikhail Turkevich
Sponsor French-Russian-Ukrainian Everest S Face 1992 Autumn
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France, USSR
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-09-19
Summit Date 1992-10-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 34
Termination Date 1992-10-23
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8750m due to winds and cold (even at BC)
High Point (m) 8750
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/09,5450m),C1(24/09,6100m),C2(25/09,6400m),C3(27/09,7200m),C4(03/10,7900m),C5(16/10,8100m),C6(17/10,8300m),xxx(19/10,8750m)
Route Notes C2 in Western Cwm C3 on SW Face (same as Bonington) C4 on SW Face (same as Japanese) C5 on SW Face (start of Bonington couloir) C6 on SW Face above rock band (same as Bonington and Japanese 1991). After C4 established, fixed ropes directly towards top to make new route. Reached 8000m at bottom of rock band, then down to consider situation. Considering lack of good acclimatization, no Sherpas to carry loads, would too long to open new route so decided on 7th Oct to abandon plans for new route and following Bonington route. 18th Oct Gonchar, Pastukh & Svergun reached 8500m; Gonchar got frostbite fingers and Pastukh infection and down to C2 while Svergun stayed at C4. 19th Oct Svergun to S Summit in dark with no watch and headlamp batteries dead; waited for moon to rise but was time of new moon at place where he found ropes but where he was doesn't know. Started freezing in very cold night; very dark night and very steep wall, but he had no new ropes of his own. Then after 3-4 hrs wait very strong wind came up and he decided to descend and reached C4 at 4 am. Now he couldn't breathe (pul. edema?) and found very big oxygen bottle, took oxygen from it without gear, descended with it on rope, taking oxygen from it occasionally and reached C4 20th about noon. Left C4 and again down that aft/eve and arrived at C2 4 am of 21st again with his oxygen bottle sliding before him, helping him to avoid crevasse as well as continuing to supplying occasional oxygen and on 21st afternoon left C2 and arrived at BC at 9 am. Had used expedition's own oxygen and mask in C2 and to BC with others. When arrived at BC doctor heard lungs and thought now pneumonia and spent that night oxygen at BC. Pelle's expedition had left tent and supplies at S Col and thought Svergun might go to col. Turkevich and Obichod had gone to this col camp for 2 nights in worst wind. Turkevich had even seen and been in broken tent. Made no attempt on summit because winds made this impossible. 2 more attempts for top via face but both stopped by winds at C4 on 21 & 24th; finally on 25th brought down C4 & C3 gear. Profit - Lhotse S Face more difficult than Everest SW Face by Bonington route; but if making direct route up Everest face to summit, forcing rock band 6400m high then Everest SW Face more difficult. Profit - 5 Nov 92: Svergun still says he doesn't know his highest point. There was a big wall and a number of fixed ropes, but it was a dark night and he confused by lack of oxygen. It is not possible to climb in the S Summit gully and is necessary to climb to left or right of it. Perhaps he went to left and behind S Summit.
Accidents Some minor frostbite, edema/pneumonia
Achievement -
Agency Mustang
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451087
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pitra Alexander M 1963 Ukraine Climber Druzhkovka, Donetsk, Ukraine Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Gonchar M 1961 Ukraine Climber Donetsk, Ukraine Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Peter Kozachok M 1954 Ukraine Climber Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine Construction worker & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Olexei Lykov M 1960 Ukraine Climber Donetsk, Ukraine Free-lance businessman Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Loukiaev M 1949 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Free-lance journalist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mojaev M 1958 USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Monogarov M 1926 Ukraine BC Manager Kiev, Ukraine Physiology professor Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Obichod M 1955 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Viktor Pastukh M 1957 Ukraine Exp Doctor Kharkov, Ukraine Physician Details Other expeditions
Juri Prikchodko M 1953 Ukraine Climber Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine Construction worker & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christophe Profit M 1961 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Soloviow M 1956 Ukraine Climber Lugansk, Donbass, Ukraine Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Igor Svergun M 1966 Ukraine Climber Kharkov, Ukraine Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Sylvianne Tavernier F 1958 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mikhailovich Turkevich M 1953 Ukraine Leader Donetsk, Ukraine Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Vareikis M 1952 Ukraine Climber Alchevsk, Donbass, Ukraine Construction worker Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER92312 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 67:218-220 (1993) -
EVER92312 HIGH - - - 124:9 (Mar 1993) -
EVER92312 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199321800/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Southwest-Face-Attempt - - -