Everest | 1992 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1992 via NE Ridge, led by Motomu Ohmyia, Valeri Khrishchati. Summit reached on 16th May 1992. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1099
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER92113
Peak ID EVER
Year 1992
Season 1
Host Country 2
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Motomu Ohmyia, Valeri Khrishchati
Sponsor Japanese-Kazakh Expedition in Spring 1992
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Kazakhstan
Approach From Lhasa by all members; Sherpas From KTM
Basecamp Date 1992-04-03
Summit Date 1992-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 43
Total Days 55
Termination Date 1992-05-28
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8360m due to fatal accident and bad weather
High Point (m) 8360
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5120m),C1(5440m),C2(6100m),C3ABC(07/04,6500m),C4(7160m),C5(7800m),C6(16/05,8360m),xxx(17-24/05,8360m)
Route Notes C3 before ridge C4 near Bonington 2nd Snow cave C5 snow cave beyond Bonington 3rd cave. Kazakhs did all lead climbing, all fixing ropes and all camp pitching. Sherpas came up behind them to stock camps. Kazakhs fixed entire route from base of NE Ridge to C6. Kazakhs never touched oxygen. They climbed as separate team. Sherpas primarily supported Japanese. 4 Kazakhs pitched C6 thus in position to make summit bid and slept there 2 nights of 16th & 17th May [waiting out bad weather]; went all way down to to BC to rest before trying [again] for top; Viktor and Yuri descended US route (N Ridge-N Col) while Vladimir and Valeri went down their own NE Ridge route. By this time Japanese climbers had given up and down a bit to C4 & C5. Japanese started for their own summit bid: Ohmyia, Hoshi, Kokobu and 3 Sherpas to C4 & C5; only Ohmyia & Hoshi from C5 to C6 with 2 Sherpas on 22 May. Sherpas on 22nd reached C6 and next day came down US route in snow & windstorm. Japanese never reached C6, but Ohmyia bivouacked at 8300m two nights (several [150m laterally] short of C6) while Hoshi never got to C6: Kazakhs found 100m below C6 a jumar on fixed rope and ice axe standing in snow. Kazakhs had received radio message from other Japanese that no contact with Ohmyia for 24 hrs and they must be in trouble, please help. Kazakhs had reached C4 on 23rd and when distress message came through, they immediately went up, climbing all night and all next day reaching Ohmyia at his bivouac late in afternoon of 24th. Ohmyia was exhausted and irrational, wouldn't take oxygen or water they offered him, was determined to go on to summit. Kazakhs had to get Japanese on radio to insist he obey Kazakhs; he was at 8300m below jummar & ice axe, which were on west side of NE Ridge. 4 Kazakhs practically carried him up to C6, which was close, well-supplied with oxygen and food and at junction of NE & N Ridges and thus on US (normal) route for easier descent; the 5 men got to C6 about 7 pm (Nepali time - nightfall) on 24th. On 25th all 5 down to US C4 at 3:30 pm by 2 Kazakhs, 7 pm by 2 other Kazakhs & Ohmyia; at C4 used German tent and Germans & Americans were there to help. 26th down to ABC despite heavy snowfall previous night with an American (Beazari) breaking trail and Austrian couple helping Ohmyia. US & doctors cared for him at ABC. By time he had reached N Col, Ohmyia could walk; his frostbite not so severe that good hospital probably couldn't save all fingers and toes; evacuated by yak to BC. Hoshi perhaps fell or jumped down W Face of NE Ridge; Ohmyia was not searching for him. Kazakhs brought oxygen supply and Japanese provided everything else. Kazakhs drove to Kazakh-Chinese border, took public buses to airport in China with connection to Chengdu & then Lhasa; same trip in reverse back to Alma Ata from BC. On NE Ridge Kazakhs found a tent with 2 sleeping bags, a stove, an ice hammer, a book with Chris's name in it & a diary with May 1982 entries. They took photos of body near these items; on breast of down suit was logs with outline of a mountain & 3 letters, one of which was M; they brought down book and diary. BC on 03 April at 5100m at the East Rongbuk Glacier C1 on 06 April at 5500m at the " " " C2 on 07 April at 6000m at the " " " C3 on 09 April at 6500m at the " " " C4 on 15 April at 7100m at the NE Ridge C5 on 18 April at 7990m at the NE Ridge C6 on 18 May at 8360m at the junction High point on 18 May at 8360m, at the junction by four Kazakh members without oxygen. Climb abandoned on 24 May due to the fatal accident and bad weather. Source: Muneo Nukita, Japanese mountain climber.
Accidents Hoshi fatal fall; Ohmiya frostbite; Viktor chest problem (went to Zhangmu and returned)
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450931
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Motomu Ohmiya M 1949 Japan Co-Leader Tokyo, Japan Department store advisor Details Other expeditions
Tsuyoshi Kokubo M 1969 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoichiro Taniguchi M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Manabu Hoshi M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati M 1951 Kazakhstan Co-Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Yuri Moiseev M 1954 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Souviga M 1953 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan - Details Other expeditions
Victor Dedi M 1959 Kazakhstan Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Syakaya/Syatty Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tshering (Dawa Chhiri) Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Kazuhiro Tsuchida M 1930 Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Tasuguki Ahoki M 1961 Japan Support - - Details Other expeditions
Motoi Ichihara M 1948 Japan Exp Photographer Tokyo, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Takatsugu Kato M 1961 Japan Support Tokyo, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Suniko Morji M 1953 Japan BC Manager Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Saito M 1925 Japan Honorary Leader - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER92113 AAJ Ohmiya, Motomo & Khrishchaty, Valeri Everest's Northeast Ridge - 67:15-18 (1993) -
EVER92113 JAC Ohmiya, Motomu Qomolungma's Northeast Ridge - 88:A28-29 (1993) -
EVER92113 HIGH Anderson, Robert Boardman/Tasker - 117:8-9 (Aug 1992) -
EVER92113 HIGH - - - 118:6 (Sep 1992) -
EVER92113 JAC Ohmiya, Motomu Qomolungma's Northeast Ridge - 88:133-140 (1993) -
EVER92113 IWA - - - :215 (1993) -
EVER92113 IWA - - - :39-40 (1993) -
EVER92113 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199301500/Everests-Northeast-Ridge - - -