Everest | 1992 S Col-SE Ridge

A Chile expedition to Everest in 1992 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Mauricio Purto. Summit reached on 15th May 1992. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1096
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER92109
Peak ID EVER
Year 1992
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Chile
Leaders Mauricio Purto
Sponsor CAI Chile Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 139
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-03-29
Summit Date 1992-05-15
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 47
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03,5350m),C1(09/04,6200m),C2(12/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7200m),C4(06/05,7900m),Smt(15/05)
Route Notes After C3 2 weeks blizzard. After C4 on 6th May placed but not slept in, down because ran out of food at C2 and down to BC to rest. 9th May 4 members up to C2, 10th rested in C2, 11th C3, 12th 4 members and 4 Sherpas arrived at C4. 13th tried to get out of tents, 2 Sherpas felt sick and down. Then Ang Rita said now too late to go to top so another night at C4 and Galician's gave 6 bottles of oxygen and regulators (50% of our success was Galician). 14th Valle's laryngitis became serious but 15th he tried for summit anyway. At 3 pm Purto, Pratt and Ang Rita started up; at 3:30 3 members and Ang Phuri started up. Met 1 Chilean from E Face at 8500m, at S Summit met leader of E Face Chileans, and at summit met 3rd E Face member. To top Purto, Pratt & Ang Rita at noon; others from his team Valle turned back at 8500m (using oxygen and sick), Garcia at 8600m and Luchsinger at 8700m (dehydrated, not using his oxygen). Purto fell into crevasse with one leg and returned to C4 at 5 pm an hour after Ang Rita. All of this summit party spent another night at C4, Purto receiving no welcome from his teammates; down to BC on 17th. On Summit on 15th in this order: 2 E Face Chileans / Americans Purto Ang Rita Pratt Spanish Army American Sherpa Ang Phuri 3rd E Face Chilean Each Indian grabbed Purto for a hand hold as they went up.
Accidents Purto fell into crevasse alone just above C4 on descent but not hurt
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450930
Year 1992
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Luis Garcia Riquelme M 1944 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Metallurgist Details Other expeditions
Fernando Luchsinger M 1967 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Journalist Details Other expeditions
Mauricio Ramon Purto Arab M 1961 Chile Leader/Exp Doctor Santiago, Chile Physician Details Other expeditions
Jorge Quinteros M 1932 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Glaciologist Details Other expeditions
Italo Carlo Valle Bottari M 1960 Chile Deputy Leader Santiago, Chile Violonist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Sherpa M 1956 Nepal H-A Worker Sallung (Beni), Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER92109 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 67:213-215 (1993) -
EVER92109 HIGH - - - 117:7 (Aug 1992) -
EVER92109 - Purto, Mauricio Everest, La Ruta Logica El Mercurio (the expedition), Santiago, Chile - P333
EVER92109 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199321300/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Ascents-Attempts-and-Tragedies-via-the-Western-Cwm-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season - - -